Beophwasa Temple – 법화사 (Changnyeong, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Temple History
Beophwasa Temple is located in the southern foothills of Mt. Yeongchuksan (681.3 m) in southern Changnyeong, Gyeongsangnam-do. Purportedly, Beophwasa Temple was first founded during the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.). However, the oldest surviving artifact on the temple grounds is the “Multi-Story Stone Pagoda of Beophwasa Temple, Changnyeong,” which dates back to the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). Originally, Beophwasa Temple was one of nine hermitages directly associated with Borimsa Temple, which was once a large temple below the current Beophwasa Temple. Borimsa Temple was destroyed during the Imjin War (1592-98). However, very little of Borimsa Temple exists today outside of some stone artifacts.
Beophwasa Temple is mentioned alongside other temples on Mt. Yeongchuksan in the “Sinjeung Dongguk Yeoji Seungnam,” or “Newly Expanded Geographical Survey of Korea” in English, which was compiled in 1530, during the early Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). In 1850, a monk named Guk-ui rebuilt the temple, and it was later renovated in 1857.
As for the buildings at Beophwasa Temple, the Daeung-jeon Hall was recently completed in 2003. Also, a modern five-story pagoda was built out in front of the main hall not long after the Daeung-jeon Hall was completed. Beophwasa Temple is home to one provincial “Multi-Story Stone Pagoda of Beophwasa Temple, Changnyeong,” which is Gyeongsangnam-do Tangible Cultural Heritage #69. Beophwasa Temple is also one of the 982 traditional temples in Korea.
Temple Layout
You first make your way up to Beophwasa Temple down a lot of country roads that eventually end at the temple. The first thing to greet you is the Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in intricate dancheong colours, especially up near the eaves of the shrine hall. Also of note are the pair of dragons on either side of the main hall’s signboard. Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a triad of statues on the main altar. This triad is centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) and joined on either side by statues of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). This triad rests underneath a large datjib (canopy). Also taking up residence inside the Daeung-jeon Hall is a beautiful, modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) with the image of Dongjin-bosal (The Bodhisattva that Protects the Buddha’s Teachings) front and centre in the mural.
Out in front of the Daeung-jeon Hall is the previously mentioned five-story pagoda. And to the far right, you’ll find an outdoor shrine dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). The statue dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul stands about three metres in height, and it holds a medicinal jar in its left hand.
To the left rear of the Daeung-jeon Hall, and up a set of stone stairs, you’ll find the understated Samseong-gak Hall. The shaman shrine hall’s exterior walls are left unadorned. However, stepping inside, you’ll find a beautiful collection of shaman deity paintings. All three paintings appear to have been created by the same artist. The central image is dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars) with a youthful image of the Jade Emperor (Okhwang Sangje – 옥황상제) at the base of the painting. To the left is a mural dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), who appears alongside peonies underneath a glorious red sun. Finally, and to the right, you’ll find a painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). Sanshin appears alongside a dongja (attendant), who is pulling down on a peony. Sanshin is surrounded by these flowers, as well as a collection of peaches (a symbol of longevity). And sandwiched between Sanshin and the dongja is a nearly comical-looking tiger.
In front of the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find the unadorned exterior of the Geukrak-jeon Hall. And as though in competition, the interior of the Geukrak-jeon Hall is occupied by a lone statue of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). Other than this statue, there is nothing else inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall.
Out in front of the Geukrak-jeon Hall, though, is the “Multi-Story Stone Pagoda of Beophwasa Temple, Changnyeong.” This atypically designed pagoda is presumed to have first been made during the early part of the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). It was originally located at the summit of Mt. Yeongchuksan, until it was relocated to the left of the temple entrance at an unknown date. It was later relocated to its present location in 2015. The pagoda consists of a three-story granite base, which was newly added. In total, the pagoda consists of seven roof stones, a body stone, and a decorative finial. The entire body is made of a dark-blue slate. The body of the pagoda is heavily damaged; and yet, the lotus pattern carvings at the base of the pagoda appear to be highly stylized. The pagoda is estimated to have been built around the late 11th century. The pagoda closely resembles that of the “Multi-story Stone Pagoda and Stone Lantern at Wondangam Hermitage of Haeinsa Temple,” which is a Korean Treasure.
How To Get There
There’s no bus that directly goes to Beophwasa Temple from the Changnyeong Intercity Bus Terminal. Instead, you’ll need to take a taxi to get to Beophwasa Temple; however, it won’t be cheap. The taxi ride should take about 25 minutes, or 19 km, and it’ll cost around 34,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 6/10
Definitely the main highlight to Beophwasa Temple is the “Multi-Story Stone Pagoda of Beophwasa Temple, Changnyeong.” Not only is it distinct, but the style of the pagoda is quite rare, as well. In addition to this pagoda, you can also enjoy the uniquely designed shaman murals inside the Samseong-gak Hall, as well as the dragons protruding out from the eaves of the Daeung-jeon Hall on either side of the main hall’s signboard. Also, the rocky face of the mountain that backs Beophwasa Temple is quite distinct, too.
