Cheongnyangsa Temple – 청량사 (Gangseo-gu, Busan)
Temple History
Cheongnyangsa Temple is located south of the Gimhae International Airport near the Nakdong River in Gangseo-gu, Busan. Purportedly, Cheongnyangsa Temple is located in one of the best locations in Korea for pungsu-jiri (geomancy, feng shui). Originally, the temple was nothing more than a village shrine dedicated to the village guardian, Dangsan (Village Guardian Spirit). Also, Cheongnyangsa Temple is one of the 973 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.
Floods and landslides in 1864 and 1865 helped form the area where Cheongnyangsa Temple is currently located. More specifically, it’s said that when a natural disaster strikes Myeongji-dong, which is where the temple is located, people can hear the sound of drums announcing the change of the topography. In 1917, villagers helped build a temple named Jangyuam Hermitage. Additionally, there’s a 250 to 300 year old tree where the Dangsan-je ceremony takes place every year, and it’s been held in this location for a long time.
By 1920, and after Jangyuam Hermitage was built, the monk Jang Yuam, a Buddhist monk from Gimhae, Gyeongsangnam-do, enshrined an altar painting at the hermitage. Later, the hermitage changed its name to Yeonhosa Temple because the temple looked like a lotus flower floating on water much like the temple did when the land around it was flooded. Always, the temple would be protected from the flooding of the waters. Then in 1961, the temple changed its name, once more, this time to its current name of Cheongnyangsa Temple.
Cheongnyangsa Temple is home to three Busan Tangible Cultural Properties. The first is the “Bokcheonsa Seokgamoni-bul Vulture Peak Mural,” which is Busan Tangible Cultural Property #35; the next is the “Cheongnyangsa Temple Altar Painting,” which is Busan Tangible Cultural Property #34; and the final is a Buddhist text that’s Busan Tangible Cultural Property #110.
Temple Layout
Cheongnyangsa Temple is located in an industrial part of Gangseo-gu, Busan with farmer’s fields to the west. You first enter through a two-story structure. The first story of this structure acts as the Cheongwangmun Gate, while the second is the Jong-ru Pavilion. Painted on the walls of the Cheonwangmun Gate are four murals dedicated to the Four Heavenly Kings. And adorning the ceiling of the entry gate are a set of swirling Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities). Housed inside the Jong-ru Pavilion, on the other hand, are the four traditional Buddhist percussion instruments.
As soon as you enter the main temple courtyard, and pass through the diminutive parking lot, you’ll be greeted by the newer-looking Geukrakbo-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the newly built main hall are adorned with vibrant Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals). Stepping inside the Geukrakbo-jeon Hall, you’ll find a smaller sized triad on the main altar. In the centre of the three is the image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise), who is joined on either side by images of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). Even the canopy overtop the main altar triad is compact in size. To the right of the main altar is a memorial shrine for the dead, while to the left there is a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
Behind the Geukrakbo-jeon Hall, you’ll find a seated stone statue dedicated to Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha). Between the Geukrakbo-jeon Hall and the temple bathroom is the 250 to 300 year old tree at Cheongnyangsa Temple. And just beyond this ancient tree are the monks’ dorms, kitchen, and administrative office.
Perhaps the most unique aspect to the temple is the Minang-gak Hall, which houses the usual shaman deities, as well as another highly original painting. The exterior walls to the Minang-gak Hall are adorned with various murals of the Sinseon (Taoist Immortals), a tiger, and a mural dedicated to Bukseong (The North Star). Stepping inside the shaman shrine hall, you’ll first be welcomed by a mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) on the far left of the main altar. To the right of Sanshin, and in the centre of the three shaman deities, is an older mural dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). The next painting is a mural dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King). Both the Sanshin and Yongwang murals are newer in composition and original in style. The final mural in the set of four, and hanging on the far right wall, is the mural dedicated to Dangsan (Village Guardian Spirit). This highly original mural is dedicated to a female spirit that protects the temple grounds and the surrounding area. It was formerly housed inside a shrine all to its own before Cheongryangsa Temple was first established. With the creation of the temple, Cheongryangsa Temple simply absorbed the shrine dedicated to Dangsan and housed the painting dedicated to this female spirit alongside other shaman deities inside the Minang-gak Hall.
How To Get There
From the Hadan Subway Station, which is stop #102 on the first line, you’ll need to go out exit #3. From there, you’ll need to find the bus stop where you can take Town Bus #3 or #15. These town buses are smaller in size, and you’ll need to take either bus for seven stops. You’ll then need to get off at the “Sachuideung -사취등” stop. From this bus stop, you need to look for the temple signs and walk towards the temple for about three minutes.
You can take public transportation or simply take a taxi from the Hadan Subway Station. The ride will take about seven minutes and cost you around 6,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 6/10
While smaller in size, Cheongnyangsa Temple has one of the more uncommon shaman spirits that you’ll find at a Korean Buddhist temple. The Minang-gak Hall alone makes a trip to Cheongnyangsa Temple worthwhile. Additionally, you can also enjoy the other shaman artwork housed inside this shrine hall, as well as the main altar statues and main altarpiece painting inside the Geukrakbo-jeon Hall. There’s a lot to enjoy at this lesser known west-end temple in Busan.
