Doseongam Hermitage – 도성암 (Changnyeong, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Hermitage History
Doseongam Hermitage is located west of Mt. Hwawangsan (757.7 m) in eastern Changnyeong, Gyeongsangnam-do. It’s believed that Doseongam Hermitage was first founded by the Silla monk Jiwol-seonsa in 810 A.D. However, the exact details surrounding the creation of Doseongam Hermitage are unclear, and very little is known about its history after its construction.
During the Imjin War (1592-98), Doseongam Hermitage was completely destroyed by fire. After, all that remained of the hermitage was the site. Later, Doseongam Hermitage was rebuilt to counter the belief that an existing hermitage in Jaha-gol Valley of Mt. Hwawangsan was located in a geomantically (pungsu-jiri) inauspicious location, which caused disasters for those residents below the mountain.
Doseongam Hermitage is home to one provincial treasure, which is the “Stone Seated Amitabha Buddha of Doseongam Hermitage, Changnyeong.” The stone statue of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) is a Tangible Cultural Heritage of Gyeongsangnam-do. Also, Doseongam Hermitage is one of the 982 traditional temples in Korea.
Hermitage Layout
As you first approach the hermitage grounds from the hermitage parking lot, you’ll first be welcomed by the four pillared Iljumun Gate, which is reminiscent of the Jogyemun Gate at Beomeosa Temple in Geumjeong-gu, Busan. The eaves of the entry gate are beautifully adorned in dancheong colours.
Beyond the Iljumun Gate, you’ll next be welcomed by the two-story Boje-ru Pavilion. The stone stairs leading up to the pavilion are bookended by a pair of stone lanterns. The first story of the Boje-ru Pavilion acts as the entry to the main hermitage grounds. The second story, on the other hand, acts as the temple’s Beomjong-gak Hall. Housed inside this second story is a large bronze bell with an image of Poroe (The Dragon that Adorns the Top of the Temple Bell) on top.
Now having entered into the main hermitage grounds, you’ll find the monks’ dorms and the administrative office to your left and right. Beyond this, and to the front right, you’ll find the Yaksa-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in simple Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside, you’ll find a main altar triad centred by Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). This central image is flanked by images of Ilgwang-bosal (The Sunlight Bodhisattva) and Wolgwang-bosal (The Moonlight Bodhisattva). Additionally, Yaksayeorae-bul holds a medicinal jar in its left hand. To the left of the main altar is a shrine dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). This dark green haired image of the Bodhisattva of the Afterlife is backed by a mural that includes the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld). And to the right of the main altar, and on the far right wall, you’ll find a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the left of the Yaksa-jeon Hall, and still on the same level, you’ll find a beautiful stone statue with Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) at its centre. Joining this central image, and completing the triad, are images of Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power) riding his six-tusked elephant and an image of Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) riding his blue tiger. And at the base of this triad are four additional images of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion).
To the upper left, and behind this outdoor stone shrine dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul, you’ll find the Daeung-jeon Hall. However, this Daeung-jeon Hall functions as a Geukrak-jeon Hall in all practical sense of the word. The exterior walls are adorned in Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals). Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a triad of statues centred by the “Stone Seated Amitabha Buddha of Doseongam Hermitage, Changnyeong.” This stone image of Amita-bul is presumed to have first been made in the late 17th century. Amita-bul’s right hand reaches down towards the ground, and his left hand rests on its lap. This mudra (ritualized hand gesture) is meant to symbolize the conquering of worldly desires and the attainment of spiritual enlightenment. The head of Amita-bul is bent slightly at an angle, but the statue’s overall proportions are nicely balanced. Joining Amita-bul in this triad are images of Gwanseeum-bosal and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). These statues were created in 1991. Also taking up residence inside the Daeung-jeon Hall are hundreds of small statues dedicated to Amita-bul, as well as a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) on the far right wall.
To the right rear of the Yaksa-jeon Hall, and across a small wooden walkway, you’ll find the temple’s Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in beautiful scenic landscapes. Stepping inside the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll, in fact, find four paintings of shaman deities inside. On the far right wall, you’ll find a painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), who is accompanied by a tiger with a Cheshire Cat-like smile. To the left of this, and in the centre of the three main altar paintings, is a painting dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). And to the left of this painting is a painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). Dokseong is joined by two beautiful deer in the painting. Lastly, and on the far left wall, is a painting dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King). There’s a statue of the Dragon King out in front of the painting dedicated to Yongwang, as well. As for the painting, he sits on a beautiful throne with his watery kingdom in the background. A pair of dragons twist and turn their way up the beams of the canopy that’s located over top of his head.
How To Get There
There are two ways to get to Doseongam Hermitage. The first is that you can simply walk to the hermitage. You’ll need to head east towards Mt. Hwawangsan along “Myeongdeok-ro – 명덕로” street. Eventually, this street will become “Hwawangsan-ro – 화왕산로” street, as it bends south. Follow this street for about 250 metres, until you hang a left (east) and go up “Jahagol-gil – 자하곡길” road. You’ll need to follow this uphill road for about a kilometre. In total, the walk is 3.2 km in distance, which should take just over an hour to walk.
And if you have a mobility issue, or you simply don’t want to walk 3.2 km, you can just take a taxi from the bus terminal. The taxi ride should take about 10 minutes, or 3.3 km, and it’ll cost you around 7,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 6.5/10
For a hermitage, there’s a lot to see and enjoy at Doseongam Hermitage from the “Stone Seated Amitabha Buddha of Doseongam Hermitage, Changnyeong” to the shaman murals inside the Samseong-gak Hall. In addition, both entry gates at Doseongam Hermitage – the Iljumun Gate and the Boje-ru Pavilion – are both stunning, as well. There’s a lot packed into Doseongam Hermitage, including a lot of recent construction, so take your time and enjoy this lesser known location.
