Gaseopam-ji Hermitage Site – 가섭암지 (Geochang, Gyeongsangnam-do)

Hermitage Site History

The Gaseopam-ji Hermitage Site is located in Geochang, Gyeongsangnam-do in Geumwonsan Natural Recreational Forest between Jirisan National Park to the south and Deogyusan National Park to the north. Mt. Geumwonsan (1,352.5 m), in fact, is located just to the west of the hermitage site. Before getting into the history of the hermitage site, there are a few rather interesting myths connected to Mt. Geumwonsan. According to one myth, there once lived a golden monkey, but he was so unruly that a monk had to restrain him under a rock. This rock was then called Natbawi, or Nabbawi, because it looked like a monkey’s face. According to another myth, there’s a rock known as Jiuam Rock on Mt. Geumwonsan. This rock was able to predict rainfall. Yet another myth is connected to Geumdalam Rock, which was named after the main character, Lee Seon-dal, from a Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) tale. Lee Seon-dal’s father was an prominent scholar, who believed that the earth was round. For this, the father was treated like a crazy person and died by fire like a heretic. After his father’s passing, and after three years of mourning, Lee Seon-dal went on a journey to prove that the earth was in fact round. There are several other myths connected to Mt. Geumwonsan, which was originally known as Mt. Geomeunsan, which means “black mountain” in English for the way the mountain looks darker and darker as the day wears on.

As for Gaseopam-ji Hermitage Site, it’s unclear when and by whom the hermitage was first built. However, it does appear as though the hermitage was once a temple. The temple at least dated back to the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), and it functioned as a temple until 1770. To support the claim that a temple existed on this site, the temple appears on “Yeojido” (輿地圖) and the “An-eum-hyeon Jido” (安陰縣地圖), which were both produced in the early 18th century. Also, the landscape of the Gaseopam-ji Hermitage Site is painted by Kim Yun-gyeom (1711-1775) in the “Yeongnam Myeongsungcheop” (嶺南名勝帖). The painting was created during his travels to famous sites in the Yeongnam region. The painting portrays a small hermitage consisting of a structure with a gabled roof and surrounded by walls and a gate.

Finally, there’s the “Three-Story Pagoda of Gaseopsa Site in Sangcheon-ri, Geochang” that now stands at the Geochang Museum that dates back to the Goryeo Dynasty, as well as the “Rock-Carved Standing Buddha Triad at Gaseopam Hermitage Site, Geochang,” which is a Korean Treasure that also dates back to the Goryeo Dynasty. Additionally, and more recently, a few stone relics have been found at the hermitage site.

Hermitage Site Layout

You first make your way past the park entry and up a mountain road. There are a couple places in the road that actually become part of a stream, so be careful if you’re either walking or driving. Eventually, you’ll come to the Gaseopam-ji Hermitage Site parking lot. Up a set of stone stairs, you’ll near a cluster of large boulders. Up a diminishing set of stone stairs, which are placed between two large boulders, you’ll come to a cave opening. What this cave opening actually is is a large, flat rock leaning up against a large, vertical stone. And on this large, vertical stone is the stunning “Rock-Carved Standing Buddha Triad at Gaseopam Hermitage Site, Geochang.” This rock-carved triad is centred by Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). And this central image is joined on either side by Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). The entire triad is surrounded by a mandorla that appears to be shaped like a large lotus bud. Additionally, large grooves were carved above and around the relief to funnel away rainwater from the “Rock-Carved Standing Buddha Triad at Gaseopam Hermitage Site, Geochang,” protecting it from damage, which probably partially explains why it has been so well protected and preserved through the centuries.

The central image of Amita-bul is standing on a lotus pedestal, and it measures 115 cm in height. And when you include both its pedestal and halo, the image of Amita-bul grows to a combined height of 215 cm. Amita-bul has a broad face with puffy cheeks and chin, which contrasts sharply with the small features on its face like its small eyes, nose, and lips. The faces of the two accompanying Bodhisattvas are also standing on lotus pedestals. However, in contrast to the simple robe that the central image of Amita-bul wears, the Bodhisattvas are wearing elaborate garments. The Bodhisattvas range in height from 150 to 154 cm. All three reliefs have angular shoulders, flat chests, unnaturally folded arms, and splayed feet. These features are common to the Goryeo Dynasty.

To the right of the triad, you’ll find a rectangular relief with a fading inscription on it. This rectangular indentation measures 70 wide and 88 cm in height, and the indentation measures 2-3 cm deep. The inscription, known as a “Josanggi” in Korean, is quite worn and difficult to discern. However, in 1989, an academic research team from Dongguk University revealed, in part, that the inscription was engraved using Haeseo style calligraphy, which consisted of 21 lines with about 540 characters written on them. Of these 540 characters, some 120 are still legible. Among the text that is still legible, it’s written “October of the first year of Cheon-gyeong – 천경원년십월,” which confirms that the relief was first created in 1111 during the reign of King Yejong of Goryeo (r. 1105–1122). Additionally, phrases like “왕 (王)” and “욕보 (欲報)” suggest that the relief was commissioned by the Goryeo king for his deceased parents and for their rebirth in paradise.

In 2002, the “Rock-Carved Standing Buddha Triad at Gaseopam Hermitage Site, Geochang” underwent restoration. This restoration included the removal of vegetation, clearing away brush from the upper portion of the relief, installing a water drainage system, and taking precise measurements of the relief.

In addition to the “Rock-Carved Standing Buddha Triad at Gaseopam Hermitage Site, Geochang” and a few small fragments around the site, the only other thing still in existence from the Gaseopam-ji Hermitage Site is the “Three-Story Pagoda of Gaseopsa Site in Sangcheon-ri, Geochang,” which is now located at the Geochang Museum. After first being removed from the hermitage site, it was relocated to Wicheon Elementary School. In 2007, the three-story pagoda was moved to the municipal museum.

How To Get There

From the Geochang Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take two buses and then hike. From the Geochang Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #10 first. You’ll need to take this bus for 20 stops, or 27 minutes, and get off at the “Wicheon-jeong-ryu-so – 위천정류소 하차” bus stop. From this bus stop, you’ll need to board Bus #15. You’ll need to take this bus for 4 stops, or 12 minutes, and get off at the “Geumwonsan-jayeon-hyuyangrim – 금원산자연휴양림 하차” bus stop. From where this second bus drops you off, you’ll need to walk about 750 metres, or 20 minutes, to the west down a mountain road.

And if public transportation isn’t your thing, you can simply take a taxi from the Geochang Bus Terminal. It’ll take you about 27 minutes, or 19 km, and it’ll cost you around 25,000 won (one way).

Overall Rating: 5/10

While there isn’t a ton to see at the Gaseopam-ji Hermitage Site, what actually is there is quite stunning. The “Rock-Carved Standing Buddha Triad at Gaseopam Hermitage Site, Geochang” is one of the best preserved historic reliefs in all of Korea. And its location inside a natural cave doesn’t hurt either. The whole atmosphere around the hermitage site borders on the mystical. And if you have the time, perhaps you can swing by the Geochang Museum to see the “Three-Story Pagoda of Gaseopsa Site in Sangcheon-ri, Geochang.”