Geumjeongseonwon Temple – 금정선원 (Dongnae-gu, Busan)
Temple History
Geumjeongseonwon Temple, which is also known as Geumjeongsa Temple, is located in Geumgang Park behind the Busan Marine Natural History Museum (부산해양자연사박물관) in Dongnae-gu, Busan. Geumjeongseonwon Temple was first founded in 1924 by the monk Gwon-u as a place for prayer. While there is no written record about the temple’s history before 1924, it’s believed that the site was once home to another temple in the past. The site of the location is also believed to have once been the location of the execution grounds of Dongnae-bu during the late Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). As a result, it’s believed that the spirits of those that had been executed cry out when it rains. At this time, people avoided this area of Busan. So in an attempt to guide these spirits to peace, the monk Geum-u built a small hermitage and lived there all alone. This would lay the foundation for the eventual construction of Geumjeongseonwon Temple.
During the Korean War (1950-53), the temple played a crucial role as a refuge for Buddhist monks who had fled from other temples. In 1950, after the war broke out, the monk Hyo-bong more fully established Geumjeongseonwon Temple as a refuge for Buddhist monks, while his disciple, Gusan, settled at Eungseoksa Temple in Jinju, Gyeongsangnam-do. And in 1954, Geumjeongseonwon Temple was registered with the Korean Buddhist Association as a fully-fledged Buddhist temple. Seok-ju, who was the monk that registered the temple, played a prominent role in the Korean Purification Buddhist Movement (1954-62) during the 1950s.
Throughout the years, Geumjeongseonwon Temple has undergone several rounds of construction and renovations. In 1969, the Daeung-jeon Hall was built. And during the 1980s, the Chilseong-gak Hall, the Seon meditation hall, and the bell pavilion were also built. Additionally, Geumjeongseonwon Temple is one of the 982 traditional temples in Korea.
Temple Layout
Geumjeongseonwon Temple is beautifully located in Geumgang Park off a pathway behind the Busan Marine Natural History Museum. Older people are usually out walking and children are often running by in pursuit of butterflies or friends.
Nearing the temple grounds, you’ll first be greeted by the Boje-ru Pavilion. The first story of this structure acts as the entry to the main temple courtyard, while the second story acts as a hall for larger Dharma talks. The stairs leading up to the main temple courtyard through the Boje-ru Pavilion are book-ended by a pair of lions, and the stone handrail has a pair of dragon reliefs carved into them. As for the second story of the structure, it’s adorned in various Buddhist motif murals. The Boje-ru Pavilion was first constructed in 1988.
Before passing through the Boje-ru Pavilion and entering the main temple courtyard, you’ll find a five-story stone pagoda to your left, as well as the Jong-ru Pavilion. The base of the five-story pagoda is adorned with reliefs of the Eight Legions. And above these eight reliefs are four reliefs of various Buddhas.
Having finally passed through the Boje-ru Pavilion, you’ll find the Daeung-jeon Hall straight in front of you. In front of the elevated Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find two stone lanterns. Surrounding the exterior of the main hall, you’ll find a cute collection of Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll see a triad of statues on the main altar. In the centre of this triad is a large statue dedicated to Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). This statue is then flanked on either side by smaller images of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). And to the right of the main altar, you’ll find a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) that was first produced in 1966.
To the immediate right of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Chilseong-gak Hall. However, the Chilseong-gak Hall at Geumjeongseonwon Temple functions as a Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in murals dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), as well as paintings of pink and red peonies. Stepping inside the Chilseong-gak Hall, you’ll find a collection of three murals inside the shaman shrine hall. The central image is dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). To the right and left of this central image are murals dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) and Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). Both the Sanshin and Dokseong paintings appear to have been created by the same artist, and they look semi-comical in appearance (probably unintentionally).
To the right of the temple grounds, you’ll find the Tomb of Dongnae Patriots of the Imjin War (1592-98). This is a collection of memorial stones for the dead that died during this destructive war. Alongside soldiers, Dongnae Magistrate Song Sang-hyeon died, as well. Their remains were discovered alongside broken swords and arrows near the south gate of the Dongnaeeup-seong Fortress in 1731. They were discovered when the fortress was being renovated by the Dongnae Magistrate Jeong Eon-seop. The remains were then buried near the Samseongdae Heights. However, due to land reclamation efforts during Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45), the graves were moved, once more; this time, near the Yeongbodan Altar behind Bokcheon-dong. Again, these graves were moved in 1974 to their present location. A memorial service is held annually on the 15th of April of the lunar calendar, which is the day that Dongnaeeup-seong Fortress fell to the Japanese during the Imjin War.
How To Get There
There are a couple of ways to get to Geumjeongseonwon Temple. The first is that you can simply take a taxi from the Oncheonjang station on the first line of the Busan subway system, which is stop #127. From this stop, you’ll need to go out exit #3 or #7. The taxi ride to the temple will take about 7 minutes, or 1.9 km, and it’ll cost 4,800 won (one way). Keep in mind, the taxi will probably drop you off in front of the Busan Marine Natural History Museum. From there, you’ll need to head to the back of the museum, where the temple is located.
Also, you can take a bus from the Oncheonjang station. This time, however, you’ll need to go out exit #5. From there, you’ll need to take the “Dongnae-gu 1-1 – 동래구 1-1” bus. You’ll need to take this bus for 8 stops, or 6 minutes, and get off at the “Geumgang Gongwon – 금강공원 하차” bus stop. From the parking lot where the bus will drop you off, you’ll need to head north for about 290 metres, or 7 minutes, until you get to Geumjeongseonwon Temple. The signs should help guide you the rest of the way.
Overall Rating: 6/10
Part of the temple’s rating is attributable to its beautiful location so near the Busan Marine Natural History Museum and inside the municipal park near the Geumgang Cable Car. In addition to its surroundings, you can also enjoy the interior of the Daeung-jeon Hall, as well as the beautiful murals that adorn the exterior of both shrine halls at Geumjeongseonwon Temple. The temple is definitely a nice little respite from the hectic downtown environs that surround it.
