Geumsusa Temple – 금수사 (Dong-gu, Busan)

Temple History

Geumsusa Temple, which means “Golden Water Temple” in English, is located in Dong-gu, Busan overlooking the port of Busan in the southern foothills of Mt. Gubongsan (404.5 m). Geumsusa Temple is most famous for being the headquarters of the Wonhyo Sect of Korean Buddhism. Also, it’s one of the 973 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.

At the end of the Imjin War (1592-98), and in 1604, Samyeong-daesa (1544-1610) went to Japan to negotiate the return of Korean prisoners of war. At that time, Samyeong-daesa stayed in Busan near the port. When he tasted the water there, he looked around the area and thought that it would be a great place to practice. Ultimately, Samyeong-daesa would go to Japan and return to the Korean Peninsula with some 3,500 prisoners of war. Later, a disciple of Samyeong-daesa would stay in the area and practice. He would name the hermitage Geumsuam Hermitage. There is very little known about the temple after this until the 20th century.

In 1910, Dongho, who was a monk from Hwaeomsa Temple in Gurye, Jeollanam-do, built a pavilion in memory of the old historic temple site. Additionally, he reconstructed the temple and called it Geumsujeongsa Temple. In 1923, the monk Seokbong rebuilt the temple.

During the Korean War (1950-53), the temple grounds were used as a refugee camp. In 1961, the Daegwangmyeong-jeon Hall was completed at Geumsusa Temple. Then in 1963, the bell pavilion was built at the temple. And in 1983, the Cheonwangmun Gate was built, as well.

Temple Layout

Climbing the stairs, the first thing to greet you at the temple, and just outside the main temple courtyard, is an stone statue of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). Just above the statue of Jijang-bosal, and up a set of stairs and to the right, are the stupas and stele of monks that once called Geumsusa Temple home. Next to this area, and a little to the left, is the Cheonwangmun Gate. Housed inside this entry gate are some of the cuter Four Heavenly Kings that you’ll find in Korea. However, this is off-set by the grotesque demonic demons that are being trampled under the feet of the Four Heavenly Kings.

Having passed through the Cheonwangmun Gate, and having entered into the main temple courtyard at Geumsusa Temple, you’ll be greeted by water ponds and gardens. The first temple shrine hall to greet you at the temple is the Cheonbul-jeon Hall. Sitting on the main altar inside this shrine hall are three larger golden statues. In the centre of these three larger statues is an image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This main altar is joined by a thousand golden statues of the Buddha. This shrine hall remains unpainted and enjoys its natural wood colour. Off in the distance, and to the west, you’ll be able to see Jungang Park and Chunghon Tower that stands 70 metres in height. The tower is dedicated to the loyal police and military of Busan that fought for Korea’s independence.

In the temple courtyard, you’ll find a strangely designed three-story wooden pagoda. At the base of this hallow pagoda is the temple’s bell. This might be one of the most unique bell pavilions I’ve seen at a Korean Buddhist temple.

To the right of this atypical pagoda/bell pavilion is a more traditional three-story stone pagoda with an intricate finial adorning the top of the pagoda. On either side of the stone pagoda are two seokdeung (stone lanterns). Behind this triad of stone structures is the main hall. The Daegwangmyeong-jeon Hall’s exterior walls are adorned in Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Also, there’s some pretty unique front floral latticework adorning the main hall, as well.

Stepping inside the Daegwangmyeong-jeon Hall, and resting on the main altar, are a set of seven statues (three larger statues joined by four smaller statues). Sitting in the centre of the three larger statues is an image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). This image is joined on either side by Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). To the far left of the smaller sized statues rests Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), joined by Birojana-bul (The Buddha of Cosmic Energy), Amita-bul, and an all-white image of Gwanseeum-bosal to the far right. On the left wall is a memorial for the dead with an image of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) in the centre of the shrine. And to the right hangs an older-looking Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).

To the left of the Daegwangmyeong-jeon Hall are the monks’ dorms, the visitors’ centre, and the temple’s kitchen. And to the right of the main hall, you’ll find the Samseong-gak Hall. The left exterior wall is adorned with a colourful, but fading, mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). When you step inside the shaman shrine hall, you’ll be greeted by an array of paintings and statues. On the main altar, and resting in the centre, is a simplistic Chilseong (Seven Stars) mural. To the left of this central image rests both a painting and statue dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), while to the right is a painting and statue dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). The tiger accompanying Sanshin in this painting has quite the large head. And placed on the right wall, and on an altar all of its own, you’ll find two Yongwang (The Dragon King) statues.

How To Get There

To get to Geumsusa Temple, you’ll first need to make your way to Choryang Subway Station, which is stop #114 on the first line. From this subway station, you’ll need to go out Exit #3. From here, you’ll need to take a taxi, which should take about five minutes, or 1.4 km. The taxi ride should cost you around 4,500 won (one way).

You can take a taxi, or you can simply walk. The walk should take you about 25 minutes from the Choryang Subway Station to get to Geumsusa Temple. Again, you’ll need to go out Exit #3 and head west towards the Busan Bank. Continue along this zig-zagging road, until you finally get to the temple. There should be some signs along the way, especially as you near Geumsusa Temple

Overall Rating: 6.5/10

Like other temples in the area, the view is the main highlight to Geumsusa Temple of the Jungang Park and Chunghon Tower, as well as the port of Busan and the Gwangan Bridge. Additionally, the interior of the main hall is beautiful as is the mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). If you’re looking for something a bit different, than the pagoda/bell pavilion is for you. In combination with other temples in the area, a visit to Geumsusa Temple can make for a nice little adventure.