Gwaneumsa Temple – 관음사 (Goryeong, Gyeongsangbuk-do)
Temple History
Gwaneumsa Temple in Goryeong, Gyeongsangbuk-do, which shouldn’t be confused with the dozens of other temples in Korea with the exact same name, is located to the east of Mt. Jusan (310.4 m) in the western part of the city. Gwaneumsa Temple is named for the Bodhisattva of Compassion, Gwanseeum-bosal. Gwaneumsa Temple in Goryeong was first founded in May 1911, during Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45). Originally, the temple was known as “Haeinsa Branch Temple, Goryeong Missionary Temple.” The founding abbot of the temple was Bak Bodam. The reason that the temple was originally built was to help local residents that wanted to practice Buddhism, so the missionary temple was constructed to meet these spiritual needs.
In May 1922, Lee Bongjo, Nam Chae-u, and others, helped to build the Gwaneum-jeon Hall, which acted as the main Dharma Hall at Gwaneumsa Temple. In August 1931, Lee Bongjo, Shin Sunil, and Jang Seonun helped in the construction of the Chilseong-gak Hall. This was subsequently followed by the construction of the Sanshin-gak Hall in 1932.
Later, and in 1956, the temple was registered as a branch temple of Donghwasa Temple in Dong-gu, Daegu. And in 1981, a large-scale reconstruction project was carried out on the temple. Then in the early 1990s, the Cheonbul-jeon Hall was built. This would complete Gwaneumsa Temple as we know it today.
As a few minor sidenotes, while Gwaneumsa Temple is relatively large today, it once consisted of only the Gwaneum-jeon Hall, which was the size of the present-day Sanshin-gak Hall (which isn’t large). Also, and as of 2010, Gwaneumsa Temple had approximately 1,600 registered devotees, with about 80% living in Goryeong. Rather interestingly, and according to gender, 90% of these devotees are women; and by age, 70% are considered elderly.
Gwaneumsa Temple is home to two provincial treasures. They are the “Buddhist Painting of Gwaneumsa Temple, Goryeong (Amitabha Buddha),” the “Buddhist Painting of Gwaneumsa Temple, Goryeong (Guardian Deities),” as well as the “Buddhist Painting of Gwaneumsa Temple, Goryeong (Seven Stars),” which is a National Registered Cultural Heritage.
Temple Layout
You first approach Gwaneumsa Temple up a busy side street. Passing by a pair of seokdeung (stone lanterns), you’ll first encounter the Cheonwangmun Gate. The exterior walls are adorned in murals dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). Stepping inside the entry gate, you’ll find four stunning murals dedicated to the Four Heavenly Kings. If you look up at the ceiling of the structure, you’ll find white and pink lotus murals.
Stepping through the Cheonwangmun Gate, you’ll enter into the main temple courtyard. To your immediate right, you’ll find the monks’ dorms and administrative office, while to the left you’ll find an elevated Beomjong-gak Pavilion with a large bronze bell housed inside it.
Continuing your way towards the main hall, you’ll pass by a modern three-story pagoda. Beyond this, and past a pair of ugly lion statues, you’ll make your way up towards the main hall at Gwaneumsa Temple, which is a Gwaneum-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in vibrant Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals). Stepping inside the Gwaneum-jeon Hall, you’ll find the main altar occupied by a solitary statue of Gwanseeum-bosal. To the left of the main altar is a Banya Yongseon-do (Dragon Ship of Wisdom Mural). And to the right of the main altar, you’ll find a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the left of the Gwaneum-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Chilseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls are filled with murals dedicated to the Bodhidharma and Podae-hwasang (The Hempen Bag). Stepping inside the shaman shrine hall, you’ll find the historic “Buddhist Painting of Gwaneumsa Temple, Goryeong (Seven Stars).” The painting was first created in 1892 by the monk Jeongi. Also, the names of the people that financially supported the mural are on the painting, as well. The painting is a bit unusual in design. In the upper row, the seven Buddhist manifestations of Chilseong (The Seven Stars) are painted. And in the centre, you’ll find Jeseok-bul (Indra). Below these seven Buddhist images, you’ll find the Confucian images of Chilseong. What’s strange about these images is that they all appear in front of a folding screen, almost as though they’re taking a group photo together. Traditionally, the seven images would surround the central image of Jeseok-bul. So the painting is a rather interesting take on a Chilseong Taenghwa (altar painting) genre.
To the right of the Gwaneum-jeon Hall, on the other hand, you’ll find the diminutive Sanshin-gak Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with landscape paintings and the “Tiger Smoking a Pipe Mural.” Stepping inside the shaman shrine hall, you’ll find one of the most original modern paintings dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) in Korea. Sanshin stands to the right on a rocky plateau with a red pine at his back. A tiger quizzically looks at Sanshin, as a beam of white light is cast down from the image of the Buddha (perhaps Seokgamoni-bul, the Historical Buddha). Across the river, and below the Buddha, you’ll find a pair of dongja (attendants) holding a basket of fruit. Swimming in the water are a pair of white cranes and a turtle. And this entire scene takes place under a red sun to the right and a white moon to the left. The painting is amazing in its originality.
Finally, and to the front right of the Sanshin-gak Hall, you’ll find the Cheonbul-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in fading Shimu-do (The Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside the shrine hall, you’ll find a triad of statues on the lowered main altar. The central image is that of Seokgamoni-bul. Backing this triad are aisles and rows of smaller golden statues dedicated to various Buddhas.
How To Get There
You can simply walk the 750 metre distance from the Goryeong Intercity Bus Terminal to get to Gwaneumsa Temple. You’ll need to head north of “Daegaya-ro – 대가야로” road for 200 metres. You’ll then need to hang a left and head west down “Kwaebin 2-gil – 쾌빈2길” road. Take this road for 250 metres. This road will eventually cross an intersection and become “Wangjeong-gil – 왕정길.” Follow this road for about 250 metres, until you arrive at Gwaneumsa Temple. In total, the walk should take just over 10 minutes.
And if you’d rather take a taxi, you can catch one from the Goryeong Intercity Bus Terminal. It’ll cost you 4,000 won (one way), and it should take just 3 minutes.
Overall Rating: 6/10
For me, the two main highlights to Gwaneumsa Temple in Goryeong are the pair of shaman murals. The Chilseong (The Seven Stars) mural housed inside the Chilseong-gak Hall from 1892 is an interesting spin on the traditional taenghwa (altar mural) design. As for the mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), I don’t think I’ve ever seen a Buddha appear alongside a shaman deity in the same painting. This was definitely a first. In addition to these two shaman murals, you can also enjoy the main altar statue dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) inside the Gwaneum-jeon Hall, as well as the painting adorning the exterior of the Sanshin-gak Hall of a “Tiger Smoking a Pipe Mural.” Also, the murals dedicated to the Four Heavenly Kings inside the Cheonwangmun Gate are pretty special, as well.
