Hwabangsa Temple – 화방사 (Namhae, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Temple History
Hwabangsa Temple is situated in the northern part of Namhae, Gyeongsangnam-do, and it looks out towards the South Sea. To the north, you’ll find Mt. Sambongsan (422.1 m); and to the south, you’ll find Mt. Mangunsan (784.9 m). Of the two, Hwabangsa Temple is located on Mt. Mangunsan.
It’s believed that Hwabangsa Temple was first built during the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.). In fact, Hwabangsa Temple was first established during the reign of King Sinmun of Silla (r. 681–692). The temple was first established by Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.) after he built Bogwangsa Temple on Mt. Geumsan. Bogwangsa Temple is now known as Boriam Hermitage. When the temple was first built by Wonhyo-daesa, it was known as Yeonjuksa Temple, which means “Smoke Bamboo Temple” in English. Alongside Boriam Hermitage and Yongmunsa Temple, Hwabangsa Temple is one of the three major temples in Namhae.
During the 1200s, during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), the monk Hyesim, who is also known as Jingak-guksa, (1178-1234), moved Yeonjuksa Temple’s location some 400 metres southwest of its former location. The temple was moved to its current location and renamed Yeongjangsa Temple. As for the change of the temple name from Yeonjuksa Temple to that of Yeongjangsa Temple, there’s a bit of a legend behind it. The monk Hyesim observed that spiritual energy was being hidden by the sea. Upon crossing the sea by boat and looking towards the mountains, Hyesim saw the auspicious shape of Mt. Mangunsan (784.9 m). Hyesim would say, “Isn’t the sacred area located there?” He then named the temple Yeongjangsa Temple.
The temple was used as a base for the Righteous Army during the Imjin War (1592-98). After being destroyed by fire during the Imjin War, the temple was rebuilt in 1637 by two disciples of Seosan-daesa (1520–1604). It was at this time that the temple was renamed Hwabangsa Temple, which means “Floral Fragrance Temple” in English. The name of Hwabangsa Temple is in reference to the lotus-like shape of the surrounding terrain.
The temple was destroyed by fire, once more, in 1740. The surrounding area was burned, as well. The monks of the temple would scatter only to come back to the temple site in 1741 to rebuild Hwabangsa Temple, once more. In 1818, further renovations were conducted on the temple. And during the late Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), Hwabangsa Temple engaged in the production of paper and the printing of books. The temple would provide paper to various government offices, schools, and even Buddhist temples in Seoul. Additionally, Hwabangsa Temple is home to numerous historical documents, including records about the temple’s reconstructions and renovations, as well as various government-issued documents.
On October 1st, 1981, the main hall, the Bogwang-jeon Hall, was destroyed by fire. So in its place, and on December 29th, 1984, a newly constructed Daeung-jeon Hall was built. In more recent years, Hwabangsa Temple has undergone new construction including the construction of the nine-story pagoda in the lower temple courtyard. This pagoda was constructed in 1998. Additionally, the temple performs memorial rites for the famed Admiral Yi Sun-sin (1545-1598).
There are two hermitages directly associated with Hwabangsa Temple on the temple grounds. They are Sugwangam Hermitage and Geukrakam Hermitage. Also, Hwabangsa Temple is one of the 982 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.
Hwabangsa Temple is home to one Natural Monument, which is the “Natural Habitat of Diplomorpha at Hwabangsa Temple, Namhae.” Additionally, there are numerous provincial treasures at Hwabangsa Temple like the “Chaejillu Pavilion of Hwabangsa Temple, Namhae,” which is Gyeongsangnam-do Cultural Heritage Material #152; the “Stupa of Hwabangsa Temple, Namhae,” which is Gyeongsangnam-do Cultural Heritage Material #507; the “Stone Sakyamuni Buddha Triad and Sixteen Arhats of Hwabangsa Temple, Namhae,” which is Gyeongsangnam-do Cultural Heritage Material #497; and “Jijang-siwang-taenghwa of Hwabangsa Temple, Namhae,” which is Gyeongsangnam-do Cultural Heritage Material #496.
Temple Layout
From the temple parking lot, you’ll make your way up the side-winding pathway and through the understated Iljumun Gate. Continuing up this trail, you’ll pass over a newly built stone bridge and the “Stupa of Hwabangsa Temple, Namhae.” This stupa houses the relics of a Korean Buddhist monk. It’s presumed to date back to the Joseon Dynasty, and its occupant is unknown. The stupa consists of a base, an oval body stone, and a roof stone. The base is carved into two tiers, and it’s engraved with overlapping lotus leaf designs. The body and the roof stone are made from one single stone with lotus leaf designs engraved at the top.
Finally nearing the main temple courtyard at Hwabangsa Temple, you’ll encounter the “Chaejil-ru Pavilion of Hwabangsa Temple, Namhae.” The Chaejil-ru Pavilion was first built in 1638, but it was destroyed by fire in 1741. More recently, it has been rebuilt. The gable roof pavilion was built on a slope making it appear to be a two-story structure from the front and one story from the back. In 1997, a wooden monument commemorating Admiral Yi Sun-sin was installed inside the pavilion. The monument measures three metres in height and 1.6 metres in width. It’s a replica of a stone stele erected at Chungnyeolsa Shrine in Namhae in 1663. The monument is inscribed with the same text commemorating Yi Sun-sin’s loyalty in about 1,300 characters. To the right of the Chaejil-ru Pavilion are a set of stairs that gain you entry into the main temple courtyard at Hwabangsa Temple.
Now standing in the main temple courtyard, you’ll find a row of temple shrine halls. Out in front the Daeung-jeon Hall, and slightly to the right, you’ll find the nine-story pagoda of Hwabangsa Temple. The pagoda consists of a lotus flower designed base with nine compact body stones. The pagoda appears to be a replica of the “Octagonal Nine-story Stone Pagoda of Woljeongsa Temple” in Pyeongchang, Gangwon-do.
To the left rear, and up a set of stone stairs, you’ll find the Daeung-jeon Hall, which is also the largest shrine hall at Hwabangsa Temple. The exterior walls are filled with murals from various Buddhist sutras. Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a triad of statues on the main altar centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This central statue is flanked by images of Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power) and Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom). And hanging on the far right wall is the Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall is a two-in-one shrine hall. The exterior walls to this shrine hall are filled with Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). The left side of the shrine hall, and the larger of the two, is the Myeongbu-jeon Hall. The interior of the Myeongbu-jeon Hall is occupied by a main altar statue of a green haired Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). This central statue is then joined on either side by paintings dedicated to the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld). And the right side of the shrine hall, and much narrower in size in comparison to the neighbouring Myeongbu-jeon Hall, is the Josa-jeon Hall. Stepping inside the narrow Josa-jeon Hall, you’ll find seven paintings dedicated to various monks that include images of Wonhyo-daesa and Jingak-guksa.
To the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, on the other hand, you’ll find the Eungjin-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the Eungjin-jeon Hall are filled with stunning paintings of the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha). Stepping inside the Eungjin-jeon Hall, you’ll find the “Stone Sakyamuni Buddha Triad and Sixteen Arhats of Hwabangsa Temple, Namhae.” This is a set of 26 stone statues consisting of a central image of Seokgamoni-bul. This central image is joined on either side by statues of Yeondeung-bul (The Past Buddha) and Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha). Both have beautiful, broad crowns. Rounding out the 26 statues inside the Eungjin-jeon Hall are sixteen statues dedicated to the Nahan, three guardians, two underworld messengers, and two dongja (attendants). Of the set, it’s believed that one guardian is missing. These all-white statues are believed to date back to the first half of the 18th century.
Out in front of the Eungjin-jeon Hall, and next to the Chaejil-ru Pavilion, you’ll find the temple’s Jong-ru Pavilion. Housed inside this pavilion are the four traditional Buddhist percussion instruments. Of note, have a closer look at the Unpan (Cloud Plate Drum). It has a wonderful sun and moon relief on it, as well as a pair of dragons.
Mounting the steps towards the large outdoor shrine to the south, you’ll make your way up to a large statue of Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). Yaksayeorae-bul cradles a medicinal jar in its left hand. It wears a traditional royal hat with a flame atop it. This statue is then backed by rows of hundreds of miniature statues of Yaksayeorae-bul. The front panels are adorned with stone reliefs of Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors). And the side stairs leading up to the crowning Samseong-gak Hall are adorned with reliefs of Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities) and a flaming medicinal jar that rests atop a lotus flower.
Having mounted the final stairs at Hwabangsa Temple to see the final shrine hall at the temple, you’ll find a compact version of the nine-story pagoda that stands in the main temple courtyard below. Beyond this are a pair of shrine halls. The compact shrine hall to the left is now boarded up. The shrine hall to the right, on the other hand, is the Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior of the shaman shrine hall is adorned in simple dancheong colours. Stepping inside the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find a triad of paintings housed inside the shaman shrine hall. All three paintings, which are dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), Chilseong (The Seven Stars), and Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), are rather plain in appearance.
Things to keep in mind when visiting Hwabangsa Temple is that you get beautiful views of the strait off in the distance. The two best views come from out in front of the Samseong-gak Hall and the Myeongbu-jeon Hall in the courtyard below.
How To Get There
From the Namhae Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #102 to get to Hwabangsa Temple. The bus ride should take about 16 minutes, or 9 stops, and you’ll need to get off at the “Hyeonchon – 현촌하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to walk 1.3 km, or nearly 30 minutes, to get to Hwabangsa Temple. You’ll need to cross the street and head up “Hwabangsa-gil – 화방사길,” which is almost entirely uphill.
And if you have a mobility issue, you might want to take a taxi. The taxi ride will take 12 minutes, or 7.4 km, and it’ll cost you around 13,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 7.5/10
While there is nothing that rises to a National Treasure or Korean Treasure at Hwabangsa Temple, there’s more than enough at the temple that makes up for this deficiency. With that being said, there is still a ton to see and enjoy including the provincial treasures like the Chaejil-ru Pavilion and the “Stone Sakyamuni Buddha Triad and Sixteen Arhats of Hwabangsa Temple, Namhae.” In addition to the provincial treasures, you can also enjoy the massive outdoor shrine dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul, the nine-story pagoda in the main temple courtyard, and the view isn’t all that bad either with the South Sea off in the distance. Hwabangsa Temple is definitely overshadowed by its southern neighbour, Boriam Hermitage; however, it shouldn’t be overlooked the next time you’re in Namhae.
