Jukrimsa Temple – 죽림사 (Cheongdo, Gyeongsangbuk-do)
Temple History
Jukrimsa Temple in Cheongdo, Gyeongsangbuk-do, which shouldn’t be confused with the numerous other temples with the exact same name, is situated to the north of Mt. Namsan (851.7 m). It’s believed that Jukrimsa Temple was first founded in 610 A.D. by the monk Beopjeong. Initially, the temple was known as Hwanamsa Temple. Purportedly after Beopjeong founded Hwanamsa Temple, he travelled to Japan as directed by Queen Seondeok of Silla (r. 632-647 A.D.). As a result of his efforts, and upon his return to Silla, Beopjeong was rewarded with land next to Hwanamsa Temple. And because there was so much bamboo on this land, the name of the temple changed from Hwanamsa Temple to that of Jukrimsa Temple.
During the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), the famed monk Jinul (1158-1210) reconstructed Jukrimsa Temple. Then during the early part of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), the monk Muhak (1327-1405) rebuilt the temple, once more. In 1592, and during the Imjin War (1592-98), several shrine halls at Jukrimsa Temple were destroyed including the Daeung-jeon Hall and the Myeongbu-jeon Hall. All that remained of the shrine halls was the Bogwang-jeon Hall.
More recently, and starting in 1992, the Samseong-gak Hall was added to Jukrimsa Temple. This was followed with the construction of the Daeung-jeon Hall at the temple.
Temple Layout
You first approach Jukrimsa Temple up one of the stranger roads with spray paint scrawled all over abandoned buildings pointing you in the right direction towards the temple grounds. When you first arrive at the temple parking lot, you’ll have to make your way past the temple’s kitchen. Once you pass by this building, which kind of screens the rest of the temple grounds, you’ll finally enter into the main temple courtyard, where you’ll find the Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the main hall are adorned with Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals). Above the entrances to the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find paintings dedicated to Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power).
Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll be greeted by a main altar filled with smaller statues. In the centre is a smaller statue dedicated to Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise), who is joined on either side by even smaller images of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). On the far left wall is a highly original mural dedicated to the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld), which is joined to the right by a mural dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). And on the far right wall, you’ll find a smaller, yet masterful, Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
In front of the Daeung-jeon Hall is a slim two metre tall, five-story, stone pagoda. Between the main hall and the temple’s kitchen is an outdoor stone shrine dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King). The nuns’ quarters are the row of buildings to the far left in the main temple courtyard.
Between the Daeung-jeon Hall and the nun’s quarters, there’s a set of stone stairs that lead to the upper courtyard at Jukrimsa Temple. The first of these two shrine halls, and the much larger one, is the Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls to the shaman shrine hall are uniquely adorned with Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find the central image dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). To the right is a mural dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). And to the left is a mural dedicated to a seated image of Yongwang (The Dragon King). Rather interestingly, Yongwang is without his traditionally angry beard and eyebrows. In fact, he looks quite placid.
To the left of the Samseong-gak Hall is the final shrine hall at Jukrimsa Temple, it’s the Sanshin-gak Hall. Inside this smaller sized shrine hall hangs a masterful modern painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). Of particular note is the stunning red pine that backs the image of the Mountain Spirit.
How To Get There
The easiest way to get to Jukrimsa Temple is from the Cheongdo Train Station. From this train station, the only practical way to get to Jukrimsa Temple is by taxi. The taxi ride will last about 7.5 km, and it’ll cost you around 20,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 5/10
There are some beautiful views of northern Cheongdo from the heights of Jukrimsa Temple. In addition to all the views, as well as some beautiful flowers planted in and around the temple grounds like poppies and daisies, you can also enjoy the unique Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld) painting inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, as well as the murals dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King) and Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) in the two separate shaman shrine halls. While lesser known, Jukrimsa Temple in Cheongdo, Gyeongsangbuk-do has one of the more serene feelings to a temple in Korea.