Munbinjeongsa Temple – 문빈정사 (Dong-gu, Gwangju)
Temple History
Munbinjeongsa Temple is located within the boundaries of Mudeungsan National Park. More specifically, Munbinjeongsa Temple is located in the western foothills of Mt. Mudeungsan (1,186.8 m) in Dong-gu, Gwangju. In 1959, Jang Munbin (1893-1987), who was originally from Pyongyang, demolished all of the structures that were being used as private retreats by lay devotees. The site was purportedly the former location of Amitabulam Hermitage on Mt. Mudeungsan. It was here that he decided to build Munbinjeongsa Temple.
Originally, the temple was registered as a Taego-jong Order temple in 1969. In 1978, the abbot Seoksan then registered the temple as a Jogye-jong Order temple. The abbot Seoksan was originally from Goseong, Gangwon-do. He became a monk at the age of 16 at Singyesa Temple on Mt. Geumgangsan in North Korea. Starting in 1974, he resided at Munbinjeongsa Temple. In 1985, Seoksan died at Munbinjeongsa Temple. His memorial tablet is housed at the temple.
Munbinjeongsa Temple also served as a hub for both Buddhist and democracy movements in Korea in the 1980s and 1990s. President Roh Moo-hyun (1946-2009) became the first sitting president to hike from the entry of Mudeungsan National Park in the west near Munbinjeongsa Temple up to Jangbuljae Pass (919 m) which lies to the east near Jungbong Peak (915 m). For this, Trail #8 in the national part is named after the former president, “Mudeungsan Roh Moo-hyun Road.” In addition to all this, Munbinjeongsa Temple is one of the 982 traditional temples in Korea.
Temple Layout
You first make your way towards Munbinjeongsa Temple through the entrance of Mudeungsan National Park. A hundred metres up the roadway, and you’ll come to the outskirts of the temple grounds. The first thing to greet you is the stately Iljumun Gate. This top-heavy entry gate is supported by two slender pillars.
Having passed through the Iljumun Gate, and to your right, you’ll find a collection of administrative offices and dorms. Before entering the upper courtyard that houses all the temple shrine halls, you’ll find the Jong-ru Pavilion to your far right. The first story houses the bronze bell, while the second story houses the three other traditional Buddhist percussion instruments.
Having seen these, you can now make your way up the tiled stairs that have a lotus flower design to them. In the midst of these stairs, you’ll find a large stone lantern. And to the right of this is a slender five-story pagoda. The first shrine hall is in this area and to the right of the five-story pagoda. This is the Nahan-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in seemingly art-deco images of lotus flowers and the Buddha. Stepping inside, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a large statue of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This main altar statue is backed by a painting dedicated to the Bodhidharma. This central image and painting are then joined on both sides by smaller statues of the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha).
Up one more set of stairs with tiles shaped like lotus flowers, you’ll find the Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in simple Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside the main hall, you’ll be welcomed by a very busy interior packed with numerous altar paintings. Resting on the main altar is a triad centred by Seokgamoni-bul. This central image is joined on either side by statues of a golden capped Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) and a regally crowned image of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion).
Also housed inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, and to the right of the main altar, are three paintings. The first of the three is dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). The central image of Jeseok-bul (Indra) is surrounded by a wonderful golden mandorla. To the right of this painting is a mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). In this painting, Sanshin has an angry pair of white eyebrows and a large-headed tiger at his side. And the final painting to the right of the main altar is dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King). In this painting, Yongwang sits upon his throne in his underwater kingdom. This throne is lined by a tiger rug. To the left of the main altar, you’ll find three additional paintings. The first is dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). Jijang-bosal is also surrounded by a beautiful, golden mandorla. He’s also joined by the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld) in this painting. To the left of this painting is a mural dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). Finally, and hanging on the far left wall, you’ll find a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). Most of the shaman deities in this painting are bug-eyed; perhaps, to ward-off evil spirits.
To the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, and in its own little courtyard, is the Geukrak-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in a modern set of Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). As for the interior, it’s a little atypical. There’s a main altar with Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) on it; however, there are row-upon-row of memorial tablets for the dead. This Geukrak-jeon Hall really isn’t for the public; but instead, for the grieving.
How To Get There
From the Gwangju General Bus Terminal (U-Square), you can catch the bus named “Cheomdan 09 – 천단09.” You’ll need to take this bus for 34 minutes, or 16 stops, and get off at the “Mudeungsan gukrim-gongwon (Jeungsimsa) – 무등산국립공원 (증심사) 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, head towards the Mudeungsan National Park entry. The walk to Munbinjeongsa Temple from the park entry gate is a mere 100 metres, and the temple will appear on your left.
Overall Rating: 5/10
Nothing will blow you away at Munbinjeongsa Temple. With that being said, things to appreciate at the temple are the Iljumun Gate, the lotus flower tiles leading up to the Daeung-jeon Hall, and the shaman paintings housed inside the main hall. Additionally, you can also enjoy the neighbouring Jeungsimsa Temple, as well as Mudeungsan National Park. Put together, they can potentially make for one amazing day in eastern Gwangju.
