Okcheonam Hermitage – 옥천암 (Buk-gu, Ulsan)
Hermitage History
Okcheonam Hermitage, which means “Jade Spring Hermitage” in English, is located in the western foothills of Mt. Muryongsan (450.6 m) in northeastern Ulsan. Purportedly, Okcheonam Hermitage was first established in 931 A.D.; however, the monk that first founded the hermitage is unknown. Later, the monk Woneum renovated the hermitage during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). Originally, the hermitage was known as Obongsa Temple, or “Five Peaks Temple” in English. The temple would eventually be renamed Okcheonam Hermitage after a jade spring emerged from between the rocks on the hermitage grounds. Also, it’s believed that when there are difficulties facing the hermitage, the spring water dries up. As a result, the monks at the temple recite the Avatamsaka Sutra for the spring’s water to return.
During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), and according to a construction record from 1792, the temple was renovated in 1696 by Shin Hwan. This was then followed by repair work on the hermitage by the monk Haengrim in 1718. Additional renovations were conducted on the hermitage in 1737 by a group of monks that included Wonhoe, Chanmin, and Sumeng with the patronage of Mun Seongdeok. More recently, and in 1990, the Geukrak-jeon Hall was constructed. And on April 21, 1999, Okcheonam Hermitage was designated as the 9th traditional temple in Ulsan. And more generally, Okcheonam Hermitage is one of 982 traditional temples in Korea.
Mt. Muryongsan Legend
As for Mt. Muryongsan, which is where Okcheonam Hermitage is located, it means “Dancing Dragons Mountain” in English. Additionally, it’s thought to be the guardian mountain of Ulsan. More recently, it’s played a more crucial role as the site for broadcasting towers. Beyond this, the mountain is rich with legends. One in particular goes as follows:
Long ago, there was a large pond at the mountain’s summit, where seven dragons lived. One of these dragons was blind and was constantly teased by the other dragons. One day, a dazzling multi-coloured cloud appeared in the sky, and a rainbow stretched down towards the pond on top of Mt. Muryongsan. Riding the rainbow, seven Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities) descended from the colourful cloud and bathed with the dragons.
None of the other dragons wanted to play with the blind dragon, so the dragon wept bitterly. Seeing this, the kindest Bicheon approached the blind dragon and said, “Come play with me,” which brought a lot of joy to the blind dragon. Meanwhile, the six other dragons and Bicheon laughed and played together, ignoring the kind Bicheon and the blind dragon.
When it was time to return to the heavens, the six dragons and six Bicheon, having grown close, decided to ascend together. But the blind dragon, unable to follow, cried out in despair. The kind Bicheon, moved by compassion, decided to stay with the blind dragon and told the others, “When you reach the heavens, please explain to the Jade Emperor (Okhwang-sangje – 옥황상제) why we couldn’t come with you.”
The Bicheon giggled, as they paired up and rode the rainbow back up into the heavens. But from that day forward, dark storm clouds gathered in the area and thunder shook the ground. Finally, torrential rain fell for the next seven days. The Jade Emperor, furious, scolded the Bicheon and dragons stating, “If you came down together, you should return together!” As punishment, the Jade Emperor banished the six dragons and six Bicheon to live underground underneath Mt. Muryongsan.
Meanwhile, the kind Bicheon and the blind dragon were summoned to the heavens, where they met the Jade Emperor. The Jade Emperor used his divine powers to restore the dragon’s sight. The two, the now-seeing dragon and the kind Bicheon, were then united as a couple and returned to live on Mt. Muryongsan. The underground exiled Bicheon, despite their sadness, found joy in living with the dragons and danced every day, while also gazing longingly up at the heavens above. Eventually, the Jade Emperor’s anger subsided, and he called the six banished dragons and Bicheon back up to the heavens. When they finally ascended, they danced with happiness.
After all this occurred, the large pond disappeared from the peak of the mountain. It was believed by the people of Ulsan that the site had great spiritual energy. As a result, if a grave was placed on Mt. Muryongsan, Ulsan would suffer a drought. During dry spells, people from Ulsan would search for hidden graves on the mountain. And when hidden graves were finally discovered and disinterred, rain would then always fall.
Hermitage Layout
You first approach Okcheonam Hermitage up a country road. When you finally do arrive at the hermitage parking lot, you’ll find a steep road to the left leading up the hermitage and a set of metal stairs to the right. Of the two, the metal stairs to the right are easier to navigate.
Having climbed these stairs, you’ll find a large, seemingly out of place, three-story structure. The first story has a set of stairs that lead up into the main hermitage courtyard. On either side of the entryway, there are four reliefs dedicated to the Four Heavenly Kings. However, the doors to this first story are closed and off-limits to the general public. The second and third floors, on the other hand, appear to be residences for people that live at the hermitage.
To the left of this structure, you’ll find a pathway that leads up to the main hermitage courtyard. Straight ahead of you is the Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with a collection of Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals), as well as murals dedicated to Podae-hwasang (The Hempen Bag) and the legendary Bodhidharma.
Stepping inside, and rather strangely, you’ll find a main altar triad centred by Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). The reason I say that this is strange is because a Daeung-jeon Hall is typically reserved for the image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). Flanking the central image of Amita-bul, you’ll find golden statues dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). To the left of the main altar, you’ll find a painting dedicated to a black-haired image of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). And to the right of the main altar, you’ll find a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). You’ll also find a Banya Yongseon-do (Dragon Ship of Wisdom Mural) hanging on the far left wall. Lastly, the interior walls of the Daeung-jeon Hall are filled with the Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals).
To the left and right of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the monks’ dorms and the administrative office at Okcheonam Hermitage. To the left rear of the main hall, you’ll find the Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior of the shaman shrine hall is unadorned. Stepping inside, you’ll find a stunning collection of paintings dedicated to the three most prominent shaman deities in Korean Buddhism. The central image is dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). Inside this painting, the central image of Jeseok-bul (Indra) is surrounded by a golden mandorla. And he’s joined in this central triad by Ilgwang-bosal (The Sunlight Bodhisattva) and Wolgwang-bosal (The Moonlight Bodhisattva). And this triad is then joined by various figures that are meant to represent various constellations. To the right of Chilseong is a mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). In this painting, Sanshin is joined by a tiger that looks petrified (or at least a little startled). And to the left of Chilseong, you’ll find a mural dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). Dokseong sits with one of his legs dangling over the edge of a rocky ledge. He looks out over a rushing stream with two phoenixes flying overhead. It’s a wonderful collection of shamanic paintings.
How To Get There
From the Ulsan Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to catch Bus #753. After 5 stops, you’ll need to get off at the “Myeongchoncha-goji (jong-jeom) – 명촌차고지 (종점) 하차” bus stop. From here, you’ll then need to board Bus #772 for 17 stops. You’ll need to get off at the “Sangyeonam – 상연암 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to cross the road and head east up “Muryong-ro – 무룡로” road. Continue heading up this road for about 300 metres, until you come to a sign on your left leading you up towards Okcheonam Hermitage. In total, the walk from the bus stop to get to Okcheonam Hermitage will take about 680 metres, or 15 minutes. In total, the entire trek using public transportation should take about 50 minutes.
And if you’d rather take a taxi from the Ulsan Intercity Bus Terminal, it’ll take about 20 minutes, or 8.9 km, and it’ll cost you around 10,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 5/10
Outside a great mountain legend, the main highlight at Okcheonam Hermitage (by far) is the collection of shamanic artwork housed inside the Samseong-gak Hall. All three are masterful modern renderings of the shaman deities. These three paintings alone are worth a visit to Okcheonam Hermitage. Additionally, you can also enjoy the interior of the Daeung-jeon Hall, which is filled with beautiful Buddhist artistry.
