Okryeonseonwon Temple – 옥련선원 (Suyeong-gu, Busan)
Temple History
Okryeonseonwon Temple is located on the southeastern portion of Mt. Baeksan in Suyeong-gu, Busan. The Mt. Baeksan area of Busan was known as an area for local’s to worship, especially for the prosperity of their descendants. It was also known as a military area to protect the city from the Japanese.
Although the exact date of the temple’s founding is unknown, it’s believed by some to have first been built by Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.) in 670 A.D. It’s also believed that Choe Chiwon (857–10th century) stayed at the temple in 910 A.D. Originally, the temple was called Baeksansa Temple. Eventually, the name of the temple would change to Okryeonam Hermitage in 1635.
Much later, and in 1976, the Bohyeon-jeon Hall was reconstructed by the abbot of the temple, Hyun-jin. It was at this time that the name of the temple changed, once more, this time to Okryeonseonwon Temple. In 1992, the stone Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha) statue was enshrined at the temple. In October, 1998, Okryeonseonwon Temple was recognized as one of the 973 traditional temples in Korea. In total, there are about ten to fifteen monks that practice at the temple.
Okryeonseonwon Temple is home to just one treasure, which is the “Statue of Jijang-bosal [The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife] Carved on a Rock Face.” It’s Busan Cultural Material #7.
Temple Layout
You first approach Okryeonseonwon Temple up a steep road that seems to be popular with local mountain hikers. You’ll know that you’re nearing the temple grounds because you’ll see an extended three metre high wall made completely of roof tiles. When you do eventually arrive at the temple grounds, you’ll be welcomed by the Iljumun Gate that’s decorated with murals of Heng and Ha (Narayeon Geumgang and Miljeok Geumgang).
Passing through this entry gate, you’ll see the monks’ quarters straight ahead of you. The lovely grass pathway runs alongside a lush hedgerow. The Jong-ru Pavilion hovers over the hedges in this area of the lower temple courtyard.
At the end of the path, and just before the bell pavilion, you’ll find a pair of seokdeung (stone lanterns) with an assortment of smaller statues in all the cracks and crevices of the wall. Just up the stairs, and you’ll eventually arrive in the upper courtyard at Okryeonseonwon Temple. Straight ahead of you is the compact Daeung-jeon Hall. Stepping inside the main hall, you’ll find a triad of statues on the main altar underneath an understated datjib (canopy). The central image is a seated statue of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), who is joined on either side by standing images of Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power). To the right of the main altar is a large multi-eyed painting dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). Also taking up residence inside the Daeung-jeon Hall is a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
Just to the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, and up a set of stairs, is the Samseong-gak Hall. You’ll get some amazing views of the neighbouring cityscape from this location. As for inside this shaman shrine hall, and unusually resting in the centre of the three most popular shaman deities in Korean Buddhism, is a life-sized statue of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). To the left of this statue is a painting of Dokseong (The Lonely Saint) who wears golden earring on his rather elongated earlobes. And to the right of the central image of Sanshin are a pair of paintings. The first is dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars), while the other is dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King), who is rather surprisingly joined by Dongjin-bosal (The Bodhisattva that Protects the Buddha’s Teachings), as well a blue and yellow dragon in the upper portion of the painting. And just to the right of the Samseong-gak Hall, and behind the Daeung-jeon Hall, is a solitary three-story stone pagoda.
It’s also in this area that you’ll find the “The Statue of Jijang-bosal [The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife] Carved on a Rock Face.” The relief was carved onto two large rocks. The relief was carved rather shallowly, and it was painted both red and blue in more recent years (but even this has now faded). Half of the shallow relief has fallen off. It’s not clear if this was done on purpose or by accident. It’s believed that the relief dates back to the 17th or 18th century based upon the nimbus that surrounds the image of the Bodhisattva. It’s also believed that the relief, in part, was created to protect the South Sea off the coast of Busan.
To the right and left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, on the other hand, are the monks’ dorms and administrative office. But the true highlight to the temple is located in the far left corner of the temple grounds. Situated here is the massive twenty-two metre tall statue dedicated to Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha) that was first constructed in 1998. Mireuk-bul enjoys a commanding view over the city of Busan. There are a combination of red roses, purple irises and an assortment of other flowers in this area, as well.
How To Get There
There are two ways to get to Okryeonseonwon Temple. Both require you to first get off at the Millak Subway Station, stop #207, on the second line. From this subway stop, you’ll need to go out exit #1 and catch a taxi. The ride should take about 5 minutes and cost you around 5,000 won (one way).
The other way that you can get to Okryeonseonwon Temple is to go out exit #1 at the Millak Subway Station. Head towards the sea and towards the second bridge to the south. Once you get to the bridge, hang a right. Head in this direction for about 300 metres. You’ll then need to hang another right towards Millak Elementary School. Head up this road, which has a bit of an incline, for an additional 300 metres, until you arrive at Okryeonseonwon Temple.
Overall Rating: 6.5/10
Okryeonseonwon Temple is one of the most beautifully located temples in Busan. From its flowers, to its well-maintained lawns and landscaping, as well as the views that the temple enjoys, and you’ll understand why I consider Okryeonseonwon Temple as one of the most beautifully situated temples in Busan. In addition, you can also enjoy the interior of the Daeung-jeon Hall, the painting dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King) inside the Samseong-gak Hall, the “Statue of Jijang-bosal [The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife] Carved on a Rock Face,” and the massive Mireuk-bul (Future Buddha) statue to the rear of the temple grounds. It all makes for a beautiful temple visit.