Former Seogyeongsa Temple – 구 서경사 (Gyeongju)

Temple History
The former Seogyeongsa Temple is located in central Gyeongju. According to the sign that details the history of Seogyeongsa Temple, Seogyeongsa Temple was built around 1932 during Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45). However, and according to archival documents, what’s more likely is that Seogyeongsa Temple was first built between 1936-37 by Shibata Dankuro, who was a prominent Japanese businessman in Gyeongju.
Seogyeongsa Temple was first built to support the religious lives of Japanese Buddhists residing in Gyeongju. Shibata first came to the Korean Peninsula before the Japanese annexation of Korea in 1910. Initially, Shibata moved to the Korean Peninsula to work in gold mining; however, he would ultimately fail. He would then move to Gyeongju in 1909. Shibata would become a better businessman than he was a gold miner. Shibata would open an inn in the centre of Gyeongju in 1915. This would make him quite wealthy.
Shibata Inn was believed to be one of the best inns in Gyeongju. In fact, Shibata Inn appears in several travelogues at this time. In 1927, about ten years after opening his inn, the Busan Ilbo, which was a Japanese newspaper, described how Shibata hosted a banquet at his inn for the local Japanese community. The banquet would last for three consecutive days to celebrate Shibata’s sixtieth birthday.

From the 1920s, and through to the early 1930s, Shibata was a powerful figure in Gyeongju. In fact, he was nicknamed the “King of Gyeongju.” In addition to his inn, Shibata would open a bookstore in Gyeongju, where he began to study Gyeongju’s cultural history and assets. Shibata would even serve as the director of the Gyeongju Museum. Early on, there were rumours, however, that he was a smuggler of Korean cultural assets. Finally in April, 1933, these rumours would appear to be accurate when a Korean, who had robbed a Silla tomb, was arrested. This looter would ultimately point a finger at Shibata and his smuggling associates. It would appear, then, that part of Shibata’s wealth was not only grounded in his inn, but it was also accumulated through the sale of Korean cultural assets to Japan. Thus, in part, Seogyeongsa Temple, it would appear, was built through the plundering of Korean cultural assets and their sales to Japan.
Seogyeongsa Temple was built for the promulgation and promotion of Jodo Shinshu (Japan’s True Pure Land Buddhism). During Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45), Seogyeongsa Temple’s members were primarily Japanese who were living in the Gyeongju area. After 1945, and after Korea was liberated, Seogyeongsa Temple was used as an office space by various institutions such as a centre for agricultural technology, a forestry management office, a local jail, and a Marine Corps Veterans’ Association building. Now, it’s located next to the Seorabeol Culture Center. And in May, 2024, and over a four month long period, the roof of the former temple was repaired.
On December 4th, 2006, the former Seogyeongsa Temple was registered as a National Registered Cultural Heritage #290.
Temple Layout
You first approach the former Seogyeongsa Temple down narrow Gyeongju backstreets, until you come to the temple site. Out in front of the former temple, you’ll find several pine trees and a stone pathway that leads up to the main hall on the compact temple grounds.
As for the main hall, it was constructed in the traditional Japanese style, so it features a large, sloping roof, simple window lattices, and monochrome colours adorning its exterior walls. This color scheme is in stark contrast to the more elaborate and vibrant colours of Korean dancheong.
Climbing the set of wooden stairs, you’ll notice that there’s a balcony that wraps around the entire exterior except to the rear of the main hall. The entire exterior is built with large windows that also surround the entire exterior of the building excluding the northern portion of the building. Looking up at the pillars on either side of the sliding front entryway, you’ll notice swirling carvings etched into the wood, as well as a pair of elephant-like dragons on each of the pillars near the top.
Typically, the main hall at the former Seogyeongsa Temple is off-limits to the general public, but I was lucky enough to be allowed into the main hall with a swipe of a security card and an unlocking of the front door by an employee of the neighbouring Seorabeol Culture Center. All former statues and Japanese Buddhist iconography have long since been removed from the building. Stepping inside the former Japanese Buddhist temple, you’ll notice that there are two divided halves to the interior. The front portion is occupied by matted flooring. But other than that, this portion of the main hall is unoccupied. To the north, and slightly raised, is the former altar of the temple. This raised half is separated into three sections. This is typical of a Japanese main altar like at Dongguksa Temple in Gunsan, Jeollabuk-do. Now, this area is occupied with items for cultural events in Gyeongju that the Seorabeol Culture Center conducts.
How To Get There
From the Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal, you can simply walk north for about 250 metres, until you come to Wonhyo-ro Street. From here, walk east for 430 metres, until you come to Geumseong-ro Street. Head north up this street for 250 metres, until you come to a large intersection. Head east for about 50 metres, until you head north, once more, this time up Hwarang-ro 69 beon-gil Road. Head up this road for an additional 70 metres. Straight ahead of you will be the Seorabeol Culture Center and Seogyeongsa Temple. In total, the walk should take you about 20 minutes over 1.3 km.
And if walking isn’t your thing, you can simply take a taxi to Seogyeongsa Temple from the Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal. The taxi ride will take about 5 minutes, over 1.7 km, and it’ll cost you 4,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 6/10
It’s not often that you come across a former Japanese Buddhist temple in Korea, especially in Gyeongju. In fact, there are only four Japanese Buddhist temples still in existence in all of Korea including Seogyeongsa Temple. Just for its uniqueness alone, it’s worth a visit. Its architecture is in stark contrast to traditional Korean Buddhist architecture and artistry. So if you’re looking for something a bit different, with a look back into Korea’s tumultuous past, perhaps the former Seogyeongsa Temple in Gyeongju is for you.










