Seonghyeolsa Temple – 성혈사 (Yeongju, Gyeongasngbuk-do)
Temple History
Seonghyeolsa Temple is located in the eastern confines of Sobaeksan National Park in Yeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do. Seonghyeolsa Temple means “Sacred Cave Temple” in English. The temple is said to have first been founded by the monk Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.) during the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.).
According to a temple legend, after Uisang-daesa founded the nearby Buseoksa Temple, he established Choamsa Temple on the site of the thatched hut (choam, 草庵) he built when he first visited Mt. Sobaeksan (1,439 m). However, the rafters to the roof of the thatched roof at Choamsa Temple kept disappearing, so Uisang-daesa went out to find them. He would eventually discover the rafters in a pile in the forest between Buseoksa Temple and Choamsa Temple. Uisang-daesa tore up the grass around the pile of wooden rafters and built a new thatched hut, which later became Seonghyeolsa Temple.
According to the Seungjeon (Biographies of Eminent Monks), the name of the temple, “Sacred Cave Temple,” comes from a separate legend about a virtuous monk that emerged from a rock cave thirty metres to the south of the temple’s present location.
After the temple’s founding, no records about Seonghyeolsa Temple exist until the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), when it’s mentioned in the “Newly Expanded Survey of the Geography of Korea” (Sinjeung Dongguk Yeoji Seungnam – 新增東國輿地勝覽). It’s also suggested in other texts like the Yeoji Doseo (輿地圖書), Yeongnam Eupji (嶺南邑誌), and Gyonamji (嶠南誌), which suggests that the temple was active through to the late Joseon Dynasty.
In 1553, the Nahan-jeon Hall, the oldest extant building at Seonghyeolsa Temple, was constructed. In 1634, a major reconstruction at the temple was conducted. Then from July 1742 to 1746, the temple was repaired. In 1775, a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) was enshrined at the temple; and in 1883, an Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) Assembly Painting was enshrined, as well. In 1937, the Daeung-jeon Hall at Seonghyeolsa Temple was rebuilt. The Daeung-jeon Hall was restored in 1956, and a new temple residence was constructed in 2004.
The Nahan-jeon Hall at Seonghyeolsa Temple is a Korean Treasure. Additionally, the temple is home to two Gyeongsangbuk-do Cultural Heritage Material. They are the “Buddhist Painting of Seonghyeolsa Temple, Yeongju (Guardian Deities)” and the “Seated Stone Vairocana Buddha of Seonghyeolsa Temple, Yeongju.”
Temple Layout
You first make your way up a long mountain road, until you eventually come to the temple parking lot. The first thing to greet you is the Nu-gak Pavilion that’s situated up the hillside and two sets of stairs. The first story acts as an entry to the main temple grounds, while the second acts as a place that people can relax and enjoy a beautiful view of the valley below.
Emerging from under the Nu-gak Pavilion, you’ll be greeted by the Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in understated dancheong colours. Stepping inside the main hall, you’ll find a small triad of statues on the main altar. In the centre of this triad is an image dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This central image is joined on either side by statues dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) and Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). And on the far left wall, you’ll find the “Buddhist Painting of Seonghyeolsa Temple, Yeongju (Guardian Deities),” which dates back to 1775. In this painting, you’ll find the image of Jeseok-bul (Indra) in the upper right corner, while an image of Dongjin-bosal (The Bodhisattva that Protects the Buddha’s Teachings) appears in the left corner. And surrounding them are guardian deities.
To the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the compact Sanshin-gak Hall. Like the main hall, the exterior of the shaman shrine hall is adorned in understated dancheong tones. Stepping inside the Sanshin-gak Hall, you’ll find both a painting and a statue dedicated to the Mountain Spirit (The Mountain Spirit). The painting of Sanshin is joined by a nearly comical-looking tiger. And fronting this painting is an image of the Mountain Spirit atop a tiger. The eyes of the statue of the tiger almost seem transfixed.
To the left of the Sanshin-gak Hall, and up a little more of the mountainside, you’ll find the Nahan-jeon Hall, for which Seonghyeolsa Temple is famous. Rebuilt in 1634, the Nahan-jeon Hall is fronted by a pair of uniquely designed seokdeung (stone lanterns). Both have coiling dragon bases with the light chambers resting on their heads. As for the Nahan-jeon Hall, they are adorned in the front by some of the most beautiful latticework that you’ll find in all of Korea. This faded latticework consists of wooden images of fish, crabs, cranes, dragons, dongja (attendants), lotus flowers, peonies and wild geese. The latticework is simply stunning!
Stepping inside the Nahan-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by seventeen statues. In the centre is an all-white image of Birojana-bul (The Buddha of Cosmic Energy). This image purportedly dates back to the late 8th century or early 9th century. As for the sixteen stone statues dedicated to the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha), they are presumed to date back to the 20th century.
To the left of this historic shrine hall, you’ll find the monks’ dorms, as well as the abbot’s. At the top of the temple grounds, and something I missed, you’ll also find an additional Samseong-gak Hall.
How To Get There
There’s really no easy way to get to Seonghyeolsa Temple in Yeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do. Already, the city of Yeongju is rather remote. And when you add a remote temple to a remote city, you end up with the absence of public transportation to Seonghyeolsa Temple.
With that being said, and outside of owning your own mode of transportation, you can take a taxi from the Yeongju Bus Terminal. The taxi ride won’t be cheap, however. It’ll take 28 minutes, or 24 km, and it’ll cost you around 31,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 7/10
It’s rather rare when a temple has such a stand-alone highlight, but such is the case with the Nahan-jeon Hall at Seonghyeolsa Temple. It’s beautiful both inside and out. From it’s decorative latticework to its all-white image dedicated to Birojana-bul from the late 8th or early 9th century. Outside of this, you can also enjoy the 1775 Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, as well as the Nu-gak Pavilion at the entry of the temple grounds. Seonghyeolsa Temple, while difficult to get to, is definitely worth the effort.
