Songgyesa Temple – 송계사 (Geochang, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Temple History
Songgyesa Temple is located in the eastern foothills of Mt. Deogyusan (1,614.2 m) in northern Geochang, Gyeongsangnam-do. Songgyesa Temple means “Pine Stream Temple” in English. It’s believed that the temple was first founded by the monks Wonhyho-daesa (617-686 A.D.) and Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.) in 652 A.D. The famed monks first built Yeongchwisa Temple in the area. This was subsequently followed by the building of five hermitages. One of these hermitages was Songgyeam Hermitage.
During the Imjin War (1592-98), Yeongchwisa Temple and all five of the hermitages were burned down and destroyed. However, during the reign of King Sukjong of Joseon (r. 1674-1720), the monk Jinmyeong would only rebuild Songgyeam Hermitage, which would come to be known as Songgyesa Temple.
After being completely destroyed during the Korean War (1950-53), the monk Seungmin rebuilt the Daeung-jeon Hall, the Geukrakbo-jeon Hall, the Yukhwamun Gate (Six Flowers Gate), the Yosachae (monks’ dorms), and the Beomjong-gak Pavilion. Sadly, the Daeung-jeon Hall would be destroyed by fire in 1999. However, it would be reconstructed in 2001 by the abbot Wonjeong. Additionally, Songgyesa Temple is one of the 982 traditional temples in Korea.
Temple Layout
You first make your way up the beautiful Sojeong Valley on your way to Songgyesa Temple. There is cascading water, waterfalls, and beautiful, mature forests up this valley. Eventually, you’ll arrive at Songgyesa Temple through a bend in the paved road. First to greet you is a small budowon that’s home to the “Geochang Songgyesa Budos.” In English, a budo is a stupa. A stupa typically enshrines the sari (cremated remains) or ashes of a Buddhist monk or nun. The exact origin of the “Geochang Songgyesa Budos” is unknown. However, and based upon the engraving on the body of one of the budo, the one is believed to have been made in 1718. They were originally located next to the Namdeogyusan Management Office, which is located about 1 km below Songgyesa Temple. However, they were moved to their current location in 2010 to help prevent theft. The stupa that has the engraving, which is known as the “Seogeun Budo,” measures 148 cm in height and 63 cm in width. This budo doesn’t have a roof stone to it, while the other does, which makes it slightly taller in height.
From the compact temple parking lot, you’ll first encounter the Yukhwamun Gate. This monochromatic gate also acts as the Beomjong-gak Pavilion to the right. Housed inside the bell pavilion is a beautiful bronze bell topped by an image of Poroe (The Dragon that Adorns the Top of the Temple Bell). And on the right backside of the gate, you’ll find a set of doors. These open to reveal a 400 year old stone statue of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha).
Passing through this gate, you’ll notice a large shrine hall to your left. This is the Geukrakbo-jeon Hall. The exterior to this hall is adorned in dancheong colours. Stepping inside, you’ll find a main altar occupied by the central image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). Also housed inside this shrine hall is a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
Between the Geukrakbo-jeon Hall and the Yosachae, you’ll find the elevated Daeung-jeon Hall, which is slightly set back from the aforementioned structures. The exterior walls are adorned with images from the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Joining these murals around the exterior of the main hall are a pair of dragon heads (one blue and one yellow) on either side of the Daeung-jeon Hall’s central signboard. And the base of the front doors are Gwimyeon (Monster Mask) reliefs. Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a central image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This central image is joined on either side by statues of a green haired Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) and a regally crowned image of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). And hanging on the far right wall is a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
The final shrine hall that visitors can explore at Songgyesa Temple is the Samseong-gak Hall to the rear of the Daeung-jeon Hall. Up a set of side-winding stone stairs, you’ll find this shaman shrine hall that looks out towards the beautiful valley below. Stepping inside, you’ll find a central image dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). What’s interesting about this image is that each of the seven incarnations of Chilseong are dressed in royal robes. Also, the nimbuses that surround the heads of Ilgwang-bosal (The Sunlight Bodhisattva) and Wolgwang-bosal (The Moonlight Bodhisattva) are lined with lotus flowers. Also taking up residence inside the Samseong-gak Hall is a painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). What’s interesting about this painting, outside of the accompanying tiger looking like a boar, is that Sanshin wears the same style of royal robe as the seven incarnations of Chilseong. The final painting inside the Samseong-gak Hall is a rather plain painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint).
How To Get There
To get to Songgyesa Temple from the Geochang Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll first need to walk about 500 metres west to get to get the bus stop that you’ll need to catch Bus #10-2 to get to Songgyesa Temple. The bus stop is the “Goryeo-jeong hyeongoi-gwa-ap – 고려정형외과앞” bus stop. You’ll need to take this bus for 22 stops, or 37 minutes. You’ll then need to get off at the “Buk Sangmyeon – 북상면 하차” bus stop. From here, you’ll need to take Bus #11. You’ll need to take Bus #11 for 7 stops, or 14 minutes, and get off at the “Deogyusan gukrip gongwon – 덕유산국립공원 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to hike the remaining 400 metres into the park and Songgyesa Temple.
And if you’d simply rather take a taxi from the Geochang Intercity Bus Terminal to get to Songgyesa Temple, it takes 33 minutes, or 25 km, and it’ll cost you around 31,500 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 6/10
While smaller in size, Songgyesa Temple definitely has some nice highlights like the national park that it neighbours, Deogyusan National Park. In addition to its beautiful surroundings, Songgyesa Temple is home to a pair of original shaman paintings, the uniquely designed stone statue dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul housed inside the Yukhwamun Gate, as well as the main altar statues housed inside the Daeung-jeon Hall. And in winter, Songgyesa Temple oftentimes turns into a winter wonderland with lots of snow.
