Wonhyoam Hermitage – 원효암 (Geumjeong-gu, Busan)
Hermitage History
Wonhyoam Hermitage is located to the south of Beomeosa Temple and to the east of Mt. Geumjeongsan (801.5 m) in Geumjeong-gu, Busan. It’s believed that Wonhyoam Hermitage was first established by Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.) during Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.). After the hermitage’s founding, its history is unknown until it was rebuilt during the late Joseon Dynasty (1393-1910) like other hermitages located on the Beomeosa Temple grounds. Wonhyoam Hermitage was later re-opened in June, 1906.
Wonhyoam Hermitage is home to five Busan Tangible Cultural Properties. They include the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda on the Western Side of Wonhyoam Hermitage,” which is Busan Tangible Cultural Property #11; the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda on the Eastern Side of Wonhyoam Hermitage,” which is Busan Tangible Cultural Property #12; the “Seated Wooden Gwanseeum-bosal of Beomeosa Temple’s Wonhyoam Hermitage,” which is Busan Tangible Cultural Property #96; the “Seated Wooden Gwanseeum-bosal of Beomeosa Temple’s Wonhyoam Hermitage Relics,” which are Busan Tangible Cultural Property #173; and the “Amita-bul Samjon-do Painting of Beomeosa Temple’s Wonhyoam Hermitage,” which is Busan Tangible Cultural Property #141.
Hermitage Layout
Half of the fun of seeing Wonhyoam Hermitage is the adventure of making the long hike up the steep, rocky trail from Beomeosa Temple. In fact, the area that you first start to hike on your way up to Wonhyoam Hermitage is called “Dolbada,” which literally means “Rock Sea” in English. So make sure you bring a good pair of hiking shoes on your hike.
The trail that leads up to the hermitage zigs and zags for about a kilometre. The trail to the hermitage is marked by white signs along the way. There’s a faded hermitage sign to the right, which highlights the summit of the mountain where Wonhyoam Hermitage is located. However, before you turn towards the trail that leads up to the hermitage, you should hang a left towards a rocky outcropping. Scaling the rocks is a bit dangerous, so be careful. But once you’ve traversed these big boulders, a beautiful panoramic view of Busan and the Nakdong River reveal themselves in the twisting valleys below. It’s a nice little spot to catch your breath among the sky and the stones.
Once you’ve captured your breath, and taken a few pictures, head back to the main hiking trail. A well-groomed hiking trail will lead you to a set of three stupas of monks that once resided at the hermitage. To the left of these stupas is the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda on the Eastern Side of Wonhyoam Hermitage.” This stone pagoda is located to the east of the main hermitage grounds at Wonhyoam Hermitage. It’s presumed to have first been made sometime between the end of Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.) and the start of the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). The pagoda consists of a base, body, and finial. It’s presumed that the original pagoda had a two-tiered base situated between the platform of the pagoda and the first-story of the body stone. Based on the damage caused to the roof stones, it’s presumed that at some point that the pagoda had fallen over and been damaged and then reassembled. The second and third body stones are made of a different type of stone and are disproportionate to the other parts of the pagoda, which suggests that they were replaced at some point in the pagoda’s history.
Continuing up the trail, and past the hermitage’s vegetable garden, you’ll notice the main entry gates at Wonhyoam Hermitage. The entry gate is adorned with a pair of guardian paintings. And these guardians are joined by a pair of lion-headed door knockers. As you pass through this entry gate, you’ll be met by a serenely maintained hermitage courtyard.
Straight ahead is the diminutive main hall. The exterior walls are filled with images from the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Inside this main hall, and resting on the main altar, is an image of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). This is the “Seated Wooden Gwanseeum-bosal of Beomeosa Temple’s Wonhyoam Hermitage.” The 17th century image of the Bodhisattva of Compassion has a square face, a large nose, and its head is rather small in proportion to the rest of its body. Its long, black hair reaches down to its shoulders. And the wooden image of Gwanseeum-bosal is adorned in a golden robe with multiple folds. What’s important about this statue is that there are very few images from the 17th and/or 18th century from Busan. Overall, the seated image has a serene look on its face. To the right of this main altar image is a statue of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). And to the left of the main altar image of Gwanseeum-bosal is a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
As you step outside the main hall, you’ll notice an administrative office to your left. To the right, and up a hill, is a set of monks’ dorms and a meditation hall. It’s also in this area that you’ll find the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda on the Western Side of Wonhyoam Hermitage.” Like the eastern pagoda at the entry of Wonhyoam Hermitage, this pagoda is presumed to have been made at the turn of Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.) and the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). Originally, it’s believed to have been located about thirty metres to the northwest at Wonhyoam Hermitage. This pagoda consists of a base, three body stones, and a finial. It’s presumed to have been originally made with a two-tiered base, but now only a part of the lower tier and the upper tier still remain. The eaves of the roof stones are damaged. And the second and third story of the body stones seem slightly shifted from their original position. This suggests that the pagoda must have once fallen but was eventually re-assembled. As for a comparison between this pagoda and the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda on the Eastern Side of Wonhyoam Hermitage,” there is a difference in size and style, so it’s presumed that they are not, in fact, a paired set.
How To Get There
From Beomeosa Station, stop #133 on line #1, go out exits #5 or #7. From there, walk five minutes to the bus stop and take Bus #90 to get to the entrance of Beomeosa Temple. Then you can take a path that leads left of the Iljumun Gate at Beomeosa Temple. This trail will lead you to a clearing with a wooden bridge that spans a stream. This area is the start of the Dolbada (Rock Sea). Hang a left and cross the bridge. Straight ahead is the first of several white signs with red print that read “원효암.” Now the truly tricky part: head up the one kilometre trail to the summit of the ridge along Mt. Geumjeongsan. You’ll pass through a gate with wired fencing. You’re halfway there! Keep going, and you’ll come to a faded sign. The hermitage is about 300 more metres up the trail pass the pagoda, stupas, and the hermitage vegetable farm.
Overall Rating: 6/10
Wonhyoam Hermitage has undergone some pretty extensive restoration and rebuilding over the past ten years. There are amazing views down towards Busan and the Nakdong River. In addition to all this natural beauty, you can also enjoy the interior of the main hall that includes the “Seated Wooden Gwanseeum-bosal of Beomeosa Temple’s Wonhyoam Hermitage.” Also, keep an eye out for both historic pagodas inside and outside the hermitage grounds. It’s actually a bit surprising that they’re not yet Korean Treasures. The hermitage itself is serene and worth the effort to get to. So if you have the time, strength and the stamina, take a hike up to Wonhyoam Hermitage.
