Seoul

Yaksusa Temple – 약수사 (Gwanak-gu, Seoul)

Outside the Daeung-jeon Hall at Yaksusa Temple in Gwanak-gu, Seoul.

Temple History

Yaksusa Temple is located in Gwanak-gu, Seoul to the northwest of Mt. Gwanaksan (632.2 m). Yaksusa Temple, which is also sometimes referred to as Yaksuam Hermitage, is a temple for nuns. While some records suggest that Yaksusa Temple was first founded in 1421, the “Bong-eun Bonmal Saji – 奉恩本末寺誌” claims that the temple’s origins go all the way back to a hermit named Kim. Kim, purportedly, built a small thatched hut for spiritual practice during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910).

In the late 18th century, and according to the “Beomugo,” which was a document commissioned by King Jeongjo of Joseon (r. 1776-1800) to survey temples nationwide, temples around Mt. Gwanaksan like Gwanaksa Temple and Gwaneumsa Temple appear; however, Yaksusa Temple does not. This suggests that Yaksusa Temple still remained as a small hermitage at this time.

Eventually, Yaksusa Temple would begin to expand in 1880, when Empress Myeongseong (1851-1895) sponsored the construction of a main hall at the temple. After a fire destroyed the temple in 1923, the temple’s main hall was rebuilt. This was followed by the construction of a Chilseong-gak Hall in 1934. Then from the 1960s to the 1990s, Yaksusa Temple continued to grow in size and significance.

Yaksusa Temple is home to the “Yaksusa Jijang Siwang-do,” which is a Cultural Heritage Materials of Seoul. Additionally, Yaksusa Temple is one of the 982 traditional temples in Korea.

Temple Layout

From the temple parking lot, you’ll first notice a modern seven-story pagoda with a wall of apartments off in the distance. Heading up the road to the left, you’ll pass by an enclosed area across the stream for ducks and chickens. To the right of this, and up a set of stairs, you’ll come to a two-story structure. This is the Geukrak-jeon Hall with the administrative office to the right. In fact, and during the winter months, the only way to enter the Geukrak-jeon Hall is through the administrative office.

Stepping inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar triad inside a rather cavernous interior. The central image of this triad is Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise), who is joined on either side by statues of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). Backing this triad, and underneath a golden datjib (canopy), you’ll find dozens of smaller statues of various Buddhas and Bodhisattvas. To the right of the main hall, on the other hand, you’ll find one of the larger Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Murals). And to the left of the main altar, and this is where the interior of the Geukrak-jeon Hall gets interesting, you’ll find an altar for the dead with a standing image of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) in the centre. And on either side of this central figure of Jijang-bosal, you’ll find two portraits: one dedicated to Empress Myeongseong and the other to Emperor Gwangmu (1897-1910; also King Gojong, r. 1864-1897).

Making your way back to the road, you’ll continue towards the upper courtyard at Yaksusa Temple. Before coming to the upper courtyard, you’ll find a pool of water being formed by the waterfall near the shaman shrine hall above that overlooks the grounds to the southeast. Across the front of this pooling water, you’ll find a small shrine and statue dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King). To the right of the pooling water, and before entering the upper courtyard, you’ll find the Beomjong-gak Pavilion, which houses a newly made bronze bell.

Entering into the upper courtyard, you’ll notice a tea house/coffee shop to your right. To the left is a diminutive Daeung-jeon Hall. Out in front of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a pair of lotus flower water basins that are occupied by ceramic statues of monks. In fact, the front of the main hall is lined with about a dozen of these coloured ceramic statues. The exterior walls to the Daeung-jeon Hall are filled with Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals).

Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a triad of statues on the main altar being centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Budda). This central image is joined on either side by statues of Gwanseeum-bosal and Jijang-bosal. All three statues, which appear to be modern in composition, have youthful faces. To the right of this triad is the “Yaksusa Jijang Siwang-do,” which is a Cultural Heritage Materials of Seoul. This painting was first created in 1914 by Gye-eun Bongbeop (繼恩 奉法) and Hangok Geungbeop (漢谷 肯法), who were prominent Buddhist painters in the late 19th century. The painting would later be enshrined at Yaksusa Temple in 1943. The painting depicts Jijang-bosal at the centre surrounded by the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld). To the left of the main hall, you’ll first find a painting dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). And hanging on the far left wall, you’ll find a smaller sized Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).

To the left rear of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a winding set of stone stairs that passes over a wooden bridge in front of the temple waterfall. Beyond this, and looking down on southern Seoul, you’ll find the Samseong-gak Hall. Immediately upon entering the shaman shrine hall, you’ll be welcomed by one of the most original paintings dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) in all of Korea. Sanshin is dressed in regal blue clothing. And upon his head rests a golden crown. At his feet appears a wild-eyed image of a tiger, while Sanshin cradles a tiger cub in his hands. According to the nun at Yaksusa Temple, this a style of painting is the only one of its kind, and the painting also appears older in age, as well. Also according to this very same nun, law students from the neighbouring Seoul National University come to pray to this Sanshin to help them pass their law exams.

In addition to Sanshin inside the Samseong-gak Hall, there are two additional images inside the shaman shrine hall. However, they’re nowhere near as impressive as the regal, cub-carrying Sanshin. The central image in the set of shaman murals is dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars), while the far left painting is dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint).

How To Get There

From the Gwanaksan (Seoul National Univ.) subway stop, which is located on the Sillim Line and is stop #S411, you’ll need to go out exit #1. From exit #1, you’ll need to make your way south down “Sinrim-ro – 신림로.” You’ll need to head south for about two minutes, or about 115 metres, and catch Bus #5517. You’ll need to take this bus for 8 stops, or 15 minutes, and get off at the “Sinu-chodeung-hakgyo – 신우초등학교하차” bus stop. From this elementary school bus stop, you’ll need to head south towards the apartment construction site. Head down the road named “Yaksuam-gil – 약수암길.” In total, the walk from the bus stop to the temple is about 570 metres, or 15 minutes.

Overall Rating: 7/10

There’s definitely a couple of unique features to this rather unassuming temple in southwestern Seoul. One of these unique features is the shrine inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall dedicated to Empress Myeongseong and Emperor Gwangmu (1897-1910; also King Gojong, r. 1864-1897) alongside a standing image of Jijang-bosal. In addition to these two unique portraits, you can also enjoy the regal, cub-carrying image of Sanshin who is adorned with a crown. Other things to enjoy are the ceramic monk statues, the chubby features of the main altar triad inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, and the older “Yaksusa Jijang Siwang-do.” Additionally, Yaksusa Temple is one of the 982 traditional temples in Korea.

The seven-story pagoda at the entry of the temple grounds.
The ducks and chickens at Yaksusa Temple.
Joined by this stone statue of Yongwang (The Dragon King).
A look inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall.
The portrait of Emperor Gwangmu (1897-1910; also King Gojong, r. 1864-1897) inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall.
And joined by this portrait of Empress Myeongseong.
The Beomjong-gak Pavilion in the upper courtyard at Yaksusa Temple.
The bronze bell housed inside the Beomjong-gak Hall.
The ceramic monk statues in front of the Daeung-jeon Hall.
One of the Shimu-do (The Ox-Herding Murals) that adorns the exterior of the Daeung-jeon Hall.
A look inside the Daeung-jeon Hall.
The main altar centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha).
The historic “Yaksusa Jijang Siwang-do.”
The frozen waterfall near the Samseong-gak Hall at Yaksusa Temple.
The painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint) inside the shaman shrine hall.
And joined by this cub-cradling image of a crowned Sanshin (Mountain Spirit).
A closer look at the wild-eyed tiger at the feet of Sanshin.

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