Yeongguam Hermitage – 영구암 (Gimhae, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Hermitage History
Yeongguam Hermitage is located on the Eunhasa Temple grounds in Gimhae, Gyeongsangnam-do. It’s one of two hermitages directly associated with Eunhasa Temple, and it’s located to the west of the peak of Mt. Sinseosan (630.7 m). According to one legend, the hermitage was first founded by the monk Jangyu-hwasang, who was the brother of Queen Heo Hwang-ok (32 A.D. – 189 A.D.). Purportedly, Jangyu-hwasang first built the hermitage in 42 A.D., and it was later rebuilt in 509 A.D. However, it’s very difficult to verify either claim.
The historical records of Yeongguam Hermitage during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) are unknown. However, there is the “Three-story Stone Pagoda of Yeongguam Hermitage, Gimhae,” which is believed to date back to the late Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), on the hermitage grounds. The shrine halls at the hermitage were rebuilt more recently.
In total, Yeongguam Hermitage is home to two provincial treasures. The first is the aforementioned “Three-story Stone Pagoda of Yeongguam Hermitage, Gimhae,” while the other is the “Buddhist Painting of Yeongguam Hermitage, Gimhae (Tejaprabha Buddha and the Seven Stars).”
Hermitage Legend
As for the hermitage legend, and getting back to the monk Jangyu-hwasang first founding Yeongguam Hermitage in 42 A.D., his story appears in the “Samguk Yusa,” or “Memorabilia of the Three Kingdoms.” The “Samguk Yusa” details the founding of Geumgwan Gaya by Suro of Geumgwan Gaya (?–199 A.D.) and his bride Heo Hwang-ok (32 A.D. – 189 A.D.). According to the legends surrounding Geumgwan Gaya in the “Samguk Yusa,” Queen Heo Hwang-ok travelled to the Korean Peninsula from “Ayuta.” With her, she brought the “Pasa Stone Pagoda” on her boat along with her brother, the monk Jangyu-hwasang. Jangyu-hwasang was a Buddhist monk, who taught Buddhism to seven of the ten sons of the king and queen. Purportedly, Jangyu-hwasang would help propagate Buddhism throughout the southern part of the peninsula. Not only would seven of these sons reach enlightenment at Chilbulsa Temple in Hadong, Gyeongsangnam-do, but Yeongguam Hermitage in Gimhae, Gyeongsangnam-do would be founded by Jangyu-hwasang, as well. Additionally, Jangyu-dong in Gimhae is also named after this Gaya monk.
Hermitage Layout
It’s a long hike up to Yeongguam Hermitage from the hermitage parking lot to the northeast of neighbouring Eunhasa Temple. In total, the hike is about 600 metres and much of the hike is quite steep. The hermitage is not far from the peak of Mt. Sineosan (630.7 m). First it’s mountain hiking, which gives way to a set of brown, wooden stairs. Eventually, and at the end of the hike, it becomes quite steep along the rocky trail.
Finally, you’ll arrive at the base of the hermitage grounds. Climbing the last few set of stairs, you’ll first be greeted by the Chilseong-gak Hall, which houses the provincial treasure, the “Buddhist Painting of Yeongguam Hermitage, Gimhae (Tejaprabha Buddha and the Seven Stars).” The painting was first created in 1910 by the monk-painter Nakhyeon (1869-1933), who lived mainly in Busan and Gyeongsang-do Province. A Chilseong Taenghwa is meant to represent longevity and prosperity, and it’s why people pray to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). The central image in the upper portion of the painting is the image of Jeseok-bul (King of Heaven Buddha, or Indra), who is joined on either side by images of Wolgwang-bosal (The Moonlight Bodhisattva) and Ilgwang-bosal (The Sunlight Bodhisattva). On either side of this triad is a row of seven figures. These are the Buddhas of the Seven Stars. Below this upper row are seven additional figures. These are the Taoist incarnations of the Seven Stars. In total, there are eighteen images in the painting. And in the bottom of the painting, there is a written inscription that includes when, by whom, and with which financial support the painting was created.
Next to the Chilseong-gak Hall, you’ll find the stone Daeung-jeon Hall. It’s rare to find a main hall made of stone, but Yeongguam Hermitage is way up in a mountain, so they probably used what was readily available. The interior of the Daeung-jeon Hall is spacious but bare. The main altar is occupied by a triad centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) and flanked on either side by a green-haired image of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) and Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). To the left of the main altar is a beautiful, modern mural dedicated to Jijang-bosal. And to the right of the main altar is a small, older Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
Out in front of the Daeung-jeon Hall, and atop a protruding rocky ledge, is the location of the “Three-story Stone Pagoda of Yeongguam Hermitage, Gimhae.” This three-story pagoda is presumed to have first been built during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). Parts of the pagoda were found in a nearby field in the 1970s, and it was reassembled at its current location. The pagoda consists of a base, three roof stones, and a finial. The undersides of the roof stones are carved into three tiers. The finial consists of a square roof-shaped base and an upside-down bowl-shaped adornment. It’s also from near this three-story pagoda that you get beautiful views of Busan and Gimhae off in the distance and Eunhasa Temple down in the valley below.
The monks’ dorms are located to the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall. It’s between the Daeung-jeon Hall and the monks’ dorms that you’ll find another set of stone stairs. These stairs lead up to the Samseong-gak Hall. Stepping inside the shaman shrine hall, you’ll first see a painting and statue dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint) on the far right wall. In the centre of the three shaman paintings on the main altar is another older-looking mural dedicated to Chilseong. The final painting inside the Samseong-gak Hall is the painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). This painting of Sanshin is a modern painting that’s rather traditional in appearance.
How To Get There
Surprisingly, there’s no bus that goes directly to either Eunhasa Temple or Yeongguam Hermitage. So the easiest way to get to either is by taxi from the Gimhae Intercity Bus Terminal. From the bus terminal, it’ll take about 20 minutes, or 8.7 km, and it’ll set you back around 12,000 won (one way). From where the taxi drops you off at the hermitage parking lot, it’s a steep 600 metre hike up to the hermitage.
Overall Rating: 5.5/10
Beyond its rather intriguing legendary foundation, you can also enjoy the amazing views from the heights of Mt. Sinseosan, which is where Yeongguam Hermitage is located. In addition to its past and views, you can also enjoy the historic painting of Chilseong from 1910, as well as the painting of both Chilseong and Dokseong in the Samseong-gak Hall. The damaged “Three-story Stone Pagoda of Yeongguam Hermitage, Gimhae” is intriguing, as well. With all that being said, the hike to Yeongguam Hermitage isn’t the easiest, so it isn’t for everyone.
