Yeonsusa Temple – 연수사 (Geochang, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Temple History
Yeonsusa Temple is located to the west of Mt. Gamaksan (952.6 m) in southern Geochang, Gyeongsangnam-do. There are a couple of legends connected to the founding of the temple. One legend states that Yeonsusa Temple was first founded in 802 A.D. by the monk Gamak-josa. Gamak-josa prepared large logs for the temple’s rafters on the southern side of the temple site. However, the logs mysteriously disappeared one night, and they were later discovered at the present-day location of the temple’s Daeung-jeon Hall. Believing this to be a sign, Gamak-josa decided to construct the temple at its current site.
Yet another legend suggests that Gamak-josa originally built the temple to the south of its current location because of a pest infestation. Yeonsusa Temple was abandoned and later relocated to its current location on the northwestern ridge of Mt. Gamaksan. This also explains why Yeonsusa Temple is one of the rare temples to face the north.
Another legend claims that King Heongang of Silla (r. 875-886 A.D.) founded the temple. After suffering a stroke, he is said to have been cured after drinking the temple’s medicinal spring water. In gratitude, the king established the temple and named it Yeonsusa Temple, meaning “Flowing Water Temple” in English. This spring water is said to be the same constant temperature throughout the year no matter the season.
During the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), and during the reign of King Gongmin of Goryeo (r. 1351–1374), the temple became known for its association with the monk Beokam-seonsa, who helped establish a meditation centre at the temple. There’s also a large ginkgo tree at the temple that’s said to have been planted some 600 years ago by a woman. This woman is said to have married a royal from the Goryeo Dynasty and gave birth to a son. However, this woman was separated from her ten year old son. Later, she sought refuge and became a nun at the temple after the fall of the Goryeo Dynasty. However, because of the great pain that was caused by their separation, and their inability to reunite, the son is said to have planted a pine tree on the temple grounds, while the mother is said to have planted a gingko tree. The pine tree was broken by a windstorm in 1980. Now, all that remains is the gingko tree. The gingko tree is a provincial treasure: cultural monument #124.
During the reign of King Sukjong of Joseon (1674-1720), the renowned Seon master Byeokam (1575-1660) restored the temple and constructed more than ten additional buildings at Yeonsusa Temple. More recently, and in 1991, the monk Hyeil helped to renovate the Daeung-jeon Hall. Yeonsusa Temple is one of the 982 traditional temples in Korea.
Battle of Yeonsusa Temple on Mt. Gamaksan (1908)
One other interesting feature about the temple is the Battle of Yeonsusa Temple, which took place at the temple after Korea had become a protectorate of Japan from (1905-1910). On June 10, 1908, about twenty members of the Righteous Army engaged in combat with the Japanese Geochang Defense Unit at Yeonsusa Temple.
As Japan continued to encroach upon Korea’s sovereignty, which continued to accelerate following the Russo-Japanese War (1904-1905) and the signing of the Japan-Korea Treaty of 1905 (which is also known as the Eulsa Unwilling Treaty), resistance movements arose nationwide. In the western part of Gyeongsangnam-do, particularly in the mountainous regions of Mt. Deogyusan and Mt. Jirisan, guerrilla-style resistance movements were formed. Several Righteous Army members from across the country gathered at Mt. Deogyusan to form the Deogyusan Righteous Army Unit. With this unit in place, they fought against the Japanese military and local collaborators. The Battle of Yeonsusa Temple on Mt. Gamaksan in June 1908 is a part of this much broader campaign, to which the Righteous Army took part in.
Several fierce battles between the Japanese and the Righteous Army took place in the area including the Battle of Yeonsusa Temple. In fact, and on April 13, 1908, the Japanese transferred the main force of the 7th Company of the 14th Infantry Regiment from Hapcheon to Geochang. It was then that the Japanese launched attacks on the Righteous Army.
On June 10, 1908, twenty members of the Rigtheous Army fought the Geochang Defense Unit at Yeonsusa Temple. In this battle, five members, including Shin Byeong-eon, were captured. The remaining members managed to escape. During the campaign, which included the Battle of Yeonsusa Temple, several commanders of the Righteous Army were captured, which led to the gradual weakening of the resistance movement in the western region of Gyeongsangnam-do.
Temple Layout
From the temple parking lot, you’ll first be welcomed to Yeonsusa Temple by the Iljumun Gate. Book-ending this entry gate are a pair of lion statues next to each of the two pillars of the Iljumun Gate. The Iljumun Gate is adorned in beautiful dancheong colours that include images of Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities).
Up the first flight of stone stairs, and to the left, you’ll find the 600 year old ginkgo tree. There are benches surrounding the ancient tree to simply enjoy the view. The ginkgo tree stands an impressive 38 metres in height, which is nice because it provides ample shade during the hot summer months.
Up the remaining set of stairs, you’ll enter into the lower courtyard at Yeonsusa Temple. Straight ahead is the Daeung-jeon Hall. There are two large stone lanterns on either side of the stairs that lead up to the main hall. The exterior walls to the Daeung-jeon Hall are adorned with Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). And if you look closely at these murals, you’ll notice that the ox has the thinnest of legs. Symbolic? Perhaps.
Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a nice triad of statues on the main altar centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) and flanked by statues dedicated to Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power) and Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom). To the right of this main altar triad, you’ll find an altar solely dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). This image of the Bodhisattva of Compassion is adorned in a wonderful, golden crown. And to the left of the main altar, you’ll find a shrine solely dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). Also taking up residence inside the Daeung-jeon Hall is a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). If you look close enough, you’ll be able to see an image of Yongwang (The Dragon King) wearing a golden crown fronted by three skulls.
To the front right and left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the monks’ dorms and administrative office. To the right rear, on the other hand, on the main hall, you’ll find a large statue dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). To the immediate left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Beomjong-gak Pavilion. Housed inside this pavilion is a large bronze bell with reliefs of Bicheon adorning its surface, while a ferocious two-headed Poroe (The Dragon that Adorns the Top of the Temple Bell) adorns the top of the bell.
Finally, and to the rear of the Beomjong-gak Pavilion, you’ll find a set of stairs that lead up to the Sanshin/Chilseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in natural wood. Stepping inside the shaman shrine hall, you’ll find a set of three murals inside. However, this set is a little different than your usual. The two murals that you’ll find on the main altar as you step in are dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) on the right and Chilseong (The Seven Stars) on the left. The mural dedicated to Chilseong is rather customary, while the mural dedicated to Sanshin is joined by a rare pair of tigers: one white and one orange. Hanging on the far left wall inside the shaman shrine hall, you’ll find a large, modern mural dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King). Yongwang is bug-eyed (looking rather annoyed), while the sun is setting at his back, as he sits in his underwater kingdom.
How To Get There
There are two ways to get to Yeonsusa Temple. There’s the hard way, and then there’s the easier way. First, here’s the hard way. You can take Bus #71-1 from the Geochang Intercity Bus Terminal. The bus ride will last 21 minutes, or 13 stops. You’ll need to get off at the “Cheongyeon – 청연하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to head south down “Yeonsusa-gil – 연수사길” road. Eventually, this road will give way to the road that leads up to the temple. In total, this hike will take 1.1 km, or 30 minutes. Keep in mind, this hike is largely uphill.
The easier way to get to the temple is to simply take a taxi. The taxi ride will take about 20 minutes, or 13 km, and it’ll cost you around 17,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 6/10
Yeonsusa Temple is beautifully situated on the slopes of Mt. Gamaksan looking north towards Geochang. Additionally, the temple is home to a 600 year old ginkgo tree. The bronze bell is quite stunning as are the shaman murals inside the Sanshin/Chilseong-gak Hall. Look especially close at the mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) with is two coloured tigers and the seemingly disturbed Yongwang (The Dragon King) in his underwater kingdom. While lesser known, Yeonsusa Temple is filled with history and beauty.
