Geumyongam Hermitage – 금용암 (Yeonje-gu, Busan)
Hermitage History
Geumyongam Hermitage is located in the very southern foothills of Mt. Soemisan (399 m) in Yeonje-gu, Busan. The name of Geumyongam Hermitage is said to originate from Mt. Geumyongsan, which is an alternative name for Mt. Soemisan. Geumyongam Hermitage means “Golden Lotus Hermitage” in English. The reason for this is that lotus flowers bloom around the hermitage grounds during the midsummer months. Within Buddhism, the golden lotus flower is meant to symbolize purity and enlightenment; and hence, why the hermitage is called Geumyongam Hermitage.
As for the age of the hermitage, it dates back to the late Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), when the Buddhist laywoman, Lee Indeokhaeng, who was also a fortune-teller, became ordained as a nun at Haeinsa Temple on October 15th, 1919. Under the Dharma name of Daebong, Lee Indeokhaeng built a three-room prayer hall at the base of Mt. Soemisan. She would name this three-room prayer hall Geumyongam Hermitage.
Later, and in 1964, the monk Deokyun from Beomeosa Temple decided to restore Geumyongam Hermitage. In 1967, the Yeomhwa-jeon Hall was completed, which is the main hall at the hermitage. In 1972, further improvements were made in and around the hermitage grounds. Then in 1992, the Yeomhwa-jeon Hall was dismantled and rebuilt, also the Samseong-gak Hall was built on the hermitage grounds, as well.
Hermitage Layout
The hustle and bustle of Busan quickly gives way to a three hundred metre long stretch of mountain road lined with pine trees. Eventually the road will lead you towards the hermitage parking lot. From here, it’s a short distance to the hermitage grounds.
Past the monks’ dorms and administrative office at Geumyongam Hermitage, you’ll be greeted by the Yeomhwa-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the main hall are filled with beautiful murals that include the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals), the legend of the moktak, and the healing of King Sejo of Joseon (r. 1455-1468). Stepping inside the Yeomhwa-jeon Hall, you’ll find a triad of statues underneath a large, red datjib (canopy). In the centre of this triad sits Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), who is flanked on either side by images of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) and Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). To the immediate right of the main altar, you’ll find a painting and statue dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). And to the right of this is a painting of what looks to be the monk Deokyun. To the immediate left of the main altar, you’ll find a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). And on the far left wall is a multi-armed painting dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion).
To the right rear of the Yeomhwa-jeon Hall, and the only other shrine hall that visitors can explore at Geumyongam Hermitage, is the Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in dancheong colours. Stepping inside the shaman shrine hall, you’re in for a surprise. Housed inside the Samseong-gak Hall are four altar paintings, three of which are dedicated to the three most popular shaman deities. In the centre is a painting from 1954 dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). To the left of this central painting is another dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). This painting dates back to 1983. And to the right of the central image of Chilseong, you’ll find a painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint) that also dates back to 1954. The interesting part is that there’s one additional painting housed inside the Samseong-gak Hall to the right of the painting dedicated to Dokseong. This is an older painting, perhaps dating back to the 1950s, as well, dedicated to Samshin Halmeoni (deity of childbirth and fate). In this painting, you’ll find three women. At Geumyongam Hermitage, people specifically pray to the image of Samshin Halmeoni for the birth of a son and other good fortune for children.
To the left of the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find a slender, white statue dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal. To the front of the Yeomhwa-jeon Hall, you get beautiful views of Busan off in the distance including Gwangalli.
How To Get There
The easiest way to get to Geumyongam Hermitage is by taking a taxi from the “Sports Complex station – 종합운동장역,” which is stop #307 on the third line. The taxi ride takes about 10 minutes, or 4.2 km, and it should cost you around 6,500 (one way).
The other way is to take a bus from the “Sports Complex station – 종합운동장역.” You’ll need to head north for about 300 metres and catch the bus named “Busan-jin gu 17 – 부산진구17” to get to the hermitage. You’ll need to take this bus for 17 minutes, or 17 stops, and get off at the “Choeup-daejin Apt – 초읍대진아파트 하” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to head north up “Seongji-gok-ro – 성지곡로” road. You’ll need to head up this road, even when the road gives way to a mountain road, for 520 metres, or 11 minutes, until you get to Geumyongam Hermitage.
Overall Rating: 5/10
There’s a lot to appreciate at Geumyongam Hermitage; one of which, is just how quickly the bustling city of Busan fades away for the foliage of the mountain hermitage. It’s rather remarkable that if you didn’t know any better, you’d think that you were in the middle of nowhere. In addition to its peaceful location, you can also enjoy the commanding views of Busan off in the distance from in front of the Yeomhwa-jeon Hall. The artwork that surrounds the main hall is stunning. Additionally, you can also enjoy the hard-to-find painting of Samshin Halmeoni (deity of childbirth and fate) inside the Samseong-gak Hall from the 1950s. While smaller in size, Geumyongam Hermitage makes for a nice little escape in the heart of a major urban centre.
