Ugoksa Temple – 우곡사 (Changwon, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Temple History
Ugoksa Temple is located to the south of the Seocheon-jeosuji Reservoir in northeastern Changwon, Gyeongsangnam-do. And to the west, you’ll find Mt. Naejeongbyeongsan (493m). In English, Ugoksa Temple means “Ox Valley Temple.” It’s believed that Ugoksa Temple was first founded in 832 A.D. by Muyeom-guksa (801-888 A.D.). He built the temple as a place to help train future generations of Buddhist monks.
After the founding of the temple, very few records about the history of Ugoksa Temple exist. However, Ugoksa Temple does appear in the “Beomugo – 梵宇攷,” which is an historical text that was compiled in 1799. Because Ugoksa Temple is mentioned as being located on Mt. Jeondansan in this text, it indicates that the temple was still active at this time. Though it’s unknown how it was eventually abandoned, Ugoksa Temple was later reconstructed during the late Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) by the wealthy benefactor Gu Manho. The ruins of the former temple site remain near the current Ugoksa Temple. Artifacts include broken pieces from a pagoda and roof tiles scattered across the former temple site.
There also once stood a 30 metre tall ginkgo tree that was believed to have first been planted at the temple when it was first founded. However, it was recently struck by lightning. This caused the tree to be severely damaged, leaving only a darkened, charred stump. However, and rather miraculously, the tree has started to sprout new shoots from its side. From these shoots, thick branches now grow. Also, and within the temple grounds, there’s a spring known for never running dry, even during droughts. The water, first discovered by Muyeom-guksa, is said to have special curative properties, especially for particular skin diseases. Additionally, Ugoksa Temple is one of the 982 traditional temples in Korea.
Temple Layout
You first make your way up to Ugoksa Temple along a mountain stream that winds its way up to the Seocheon-jeosuji Reservoir. From the temple parking lot, you’ll need to climb a large set of uneven stairs to gain entry to the main temple courtyard. When you finally do arrive inside the temple courtyard, you’ll be greeted by the monks’ dorms to your left and the administrative office to the right.
Straight ahead, and up another set of stony stairs, you’ll find the Daeung-jeon Hall. But before mounting these stairs, you’ll first find a stone dragon head water spout that pours forth the spring water into a stone lotus basin. Continuing up, and now standing in front of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals) adorning the exterior of the main hall. On the underside of the roof, you’ll find several painted faces of Gwimyeon (Monster Masks). You’ll also find a pair of modern seokdeung (stone lanterns) in front of the Daeung-jeon Hall, as well.
Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a triad of statues centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This central image is then joined on either side by statues of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) and Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). Book-ending this triad on either side are a pair of Yunjangdae (Revolving Scriptures Library Pillar). Also taking up residence inside the main hall, you’ll find a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find an open pavilion. This is the Beomjong-gak Pavilion at Ugoksa Temple. Housed inside this pavilion is a large bronze bell. To the left of the main hall, on the other hand, you’ll find the Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior is adorned in dancheong colours. Stepping inside the shaman shrine hall, you’ll find three shaman deity paintings. All three are a bit older in age, especially the one dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars), but they are all quite simple in composition. The other two shaman deity paintings housed inside the Samseong-gak Hall are dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint) and Yongwang (The Dragon King).
To the left rear of the Samseong-gak Hall, and slightly elevated, you’ll find the Sanshin-gak Hall. To the left of the Sanshin-gak Hall is a biseok (stele) with a tortoise base. Stepping inside the Sanshin-gak Hall, you’ll find a painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). Like the paintings dedicated to Yongwang and Dokseong, this painting appears to have been created by the same artist.
How To Get There
There are no buses that go directly to Ugoksa Temple from the Changwon Bus Terminal. To get to Ugoksa Temple from the Changwon Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take a taxi. The taxi ride should last about 25 minutes, or 17 km, and it’ll cost you around 18,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 5.5/10
Ugoksa Temple is a quaint little temple that’s nestled close to the slopes of the neighbouring mountain. In addition to its natural beauty, you can also enjoy the artwork that surrounds the Daeung-jeon Hall, as well as the beautiful bronze bell housed inside the Beomjong-gak Pavilion.
