Bomunsa Temple – 보문사 (Yecheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do

Temple History

Bomunsa Temple in Yecheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do, which shouldn’t be confused with the dozens of other temples in Korea with the exact same name, is located to the northwest of Mt. Bomunsan (642.5 m). Bomunsa Temple is believed to have first been founded in 676 A.D. by the famed monk Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.). However, there is very little evidence to support this claim. Instead, it’s more likely that one of Uisang-daesa’s disciples actually first founded Bomunsa Temple. Either way, it’s believed that Bomunsa Temple is the oldest temple in the city of Yecheon.

During the mid-Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), the famed monk Jinul (1158-1210), who was also known as Bojo-guksa, stayed at Bomunsa Temple for three years starting in 1185, studying the Tripitaka. While reading the Avataṃsaka Sūtra one day, he attained great enlightenment upon encountering the passage: “All sentient beings possess the wisdom and virtue of the Buddha, but because of deluded thoughts, they fail to realize it.”

According to the Goryeosa, or “History of Goryeo” in English, in July 1381, when Japanese pirates threatened to invade neighbouring Andong, state records that were stored at Bomunsa Temple (referred to in the text as Bommunsa, 普門社) were moved to Gaecheonsa Temple in Chungju, Chungcheongbuk-do. While misspelt, it’s generally understood to refer to this temple. It’s believed that during the Goryeo Dynasty, Bomunsa Temple, alongside Haeinsa Temple, was used as repository of the Annals of the Goryeo Dynasty.

Bomunsa Temple was destroyed during the Imjin War (1592-98), but it was later rebuilt, presumably, before the creation of the “Buddhist Painting of Bomunsa Temple, Yecheon (Three Bodhisattvas)” in 1767. The temple is believed to have flourished around this time. In fact, and in 1882, Bomunsa Temple was home to a Geukrakbo-jeon Hall, a Seon-dang (Meditation Hall), a Josa-jeon Hall (Founder’s Hall), a Beomjong-gak Pavilion, a Nahan-jeon Hall, a Bojo Yeong-dang (Bojo Portrait Hall), a Sanshin-gak Hall, a Chilseong-gak Hall, and the hermitage Ungyeam Hermitage. At this time, it’s believed that Bomunsa Temple was home to some 50 monks, while an additional 30 lived at Ungyeam Hermitage.

Eventually, however, the temple would fall into disrepair, once more. The temple would be restored in 1926 and 1967. It’s from the latter that the present layout of the temple currently exists. Bomunsa Temple is one of the 982 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea. It’s also home to one Korean Treasure, the “Buddhist Painting of Bomunsa Temple, Yecheon (Three Bodhisattvas),” as well as three additional Gyeongsangbuk-do Cultural Heritage Material. These include the Geukrak-jeon Hall, the “Stone Seated Triad of Amitabha Buddha of Bomunsa Temple, Yecheon,” and the “Three-Story Pagoda of Bomunsa Temple, Yecheon.”

Temple Layout

You first approach Bomunsa Temple up a long country road. Eventually, you’ll come to the temple parking lot. To the east, and past some shrubs, you’ll find the temple’s artificial pond. There’s a small metal bridge that spans a portion of this pond, until you reach the centre, where there’s a flat stone. Presumably, this is for meditation. Also in the area, and near the azaleas that line the outer rim of the pond, you’ll find a beautiful, modern relief dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). And just down the hillside from the artificial pond, you’ll find a modern biseok (stele).

Making your way past the climbing rose bushes, and beyond the monks’ dorms, you’ll find yourself squarely inside the main temple courtyard. To your left is the administrative office. The older abbot is especially nice. He invited me in for a cup of tea.

Between the administrative office and the monks’ dorms is the historic Geukrakbo-jeon Hall. The main hall is believed to have first been built during the mid-to-late Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). The exterior walls are adorned with a large Banya Yongseon-do (Dragon Ship of Wisdom Mural), as well as eight Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors). Stepping inside, you’ll find the “Stone Seated Triad of Amitabha Buddha of Bomunsa Temple, Yecheon” resting on the compact main altar. This triad, centred by Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise), is believed to pre-date 1811. The central image is joined on either side by statues of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). They all have square-shaped faces, slightly hunched shoulders, and thick robes with wide sleeves. Also taking up residence inside the Geukrakbo-jeon Hall is the “Buddhist Painting of Bomunsa Temple, Yecheon (Three Bodhisattvas)” from 1767 to the right of the main altar. There’s also two paintings on the far right wall dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal and Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife).

To the left of the Geukrakbo-jeon Hall is the Josa-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with various murals that include those dedicated to Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.) and Uisang-daesa, Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), and Podae-hwasang (The Hempen Bag). Stepping inside the Josa-jeon Hall, you’ll find a painting dedicated to the monk Jinul on the main altar. On the far right and left wall, you’ll find a painting of a white tiger and a blue dragon.

To the right of the main hall, you’ll see two additional shrine halls. The first is the Samseong-gak Hall. The left exterior wall is home to one of the more unique paintings that you’ll find in Korea. This painting is called the “Rabbit’s Liver,” and it’s dedicated to a tricky rabbit, a loyal turtle, and Yongwang (The Dragon King). Stepping inside the shaman shrine hall, you’ll find a triad of paintings on the main altar. The first painting, which is located in the centre, is dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). On the far left wall is a painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). Of the three, it’s the painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) to the right that’s the most original. One of the dongja (attendants) has a wandering eye, while the tiger is grayish in tone.

To the right of the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find the final shrine hall at Bomunsa Temple. This is the Nahan-jeon Hall. The main altar inside the Nahan-jeon Hall is occupied by a triad of statues centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) and joined on either side by Yeondeung-bul (The Past Buddha) and Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha). This triad is then joined on either side by statues and paintings of the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha).

Out in front of the Nahan-jeon Hall, you’ll find the “Three-Story Pagoda of Bomunsa Temple, Yecheon.” The three-story structure is believed to date back to the early Goryeo Dynasty. Originally, this pagoda was located in a garden at Ungyeam Hermitage. This hermitage no longer exists, so it was later moved to its current location. Around the base of the pagoda, you’ll find words written in black ink in hanja. While not the tallest pagoda, it’s beautifully constructed in its simplicity.

How To Get There

While you can take a bus from the Yecheon Bus Terminal, the hike from the bus stop is nearly an hours walk (one way). So the most practical way to get to Bomunsa Temple in Yecheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do is to take a taxi from the Yecheon Bus Terminal. It’ll take around 15 minutes, or 13 km, and it’ll cost you around 18,000 won (one way).

Overall Rating: 6/10

There’s a lot to appreciate at Bomunsa Temple including the beautiful mountains and artificial pond lined with azaleas. You can also enjoy the mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) inside the Samseong-gak Hall, or enjoy the ultra-rare “Rabbit’s Liver” mural that adorns the exterior of the shaman shrine hall. The few other things to keep an eye out for at Bomunsa Temple is the Goryeo Dynasty three-story pagoda in front of the Nahan-jeon Hall, the “Stone Seated Triad of Amitabha Buddha of Bomunsa Temple, Yecheon” inside the historic Geukrakbo-jeon Hall, as well as the “Buddhist Painting of Bomunsa Temple, Yecheon (Three Bodhisattvas).”