Samneung-gol Valley – 삼릉골 (Gyeongju)

Valley Layout

Samneung Valley, on the west side of Mt. Namsan (495.1m) in Gyeongju, means “Three Tombs Valley” in English. If Gyeongju is considered an outdoor museum, then Mt. Namsan; and Samneung Valley in particular, is an outdoor shrine dedicated to Silla Buddhism.

From the visitors centre and the parking lot, it’s about a 1.5 kilometre hike to the top of the valley. Leaving enough time to see everything, which there’s a lot to see, it’ll take anywhere from an hour to two hours to hike. The trail starts off rather easily, and then it gets gradually harder and harder.

A: The “Three Royal Tombs in Bae-dong, Gyeongju”

The first thing you’ll come across during this hike, and about 250 metres in, are the three burial mounds for which the valley gets its name: Samneung Valley. These are officially known as the “Three Royal Tombs in Bae-dong, Gyeongju,” which is Historic Site #219.

The first of the three burial mounds behind the fenced off area is thought to house the earthly remains of King Adalla of Silla (r. 154 A.D. – 184 A.D.). The next in the twisted red pine backdrop is thought to be the tomb of King Sindeok of Silla (r. 912-917 A.D.). Of the three round tombs, this is the largest tomb. Also, this tomb was looted in 1953 and 1963. Archaeological efforts revealed that this tomb has a horizontal-chamber tomb inside. Some parts of the eastern and western walls inside the tomb are painted. The colours include red, yellow, white and navy blue. The final burial mound, and the closest to the mountain, is thought to be that of King Gyeongmyeong of Silla (r .917 A.D. – 924 A.D.).

What’s interesting about these three tombs is that there’s a gap in time of nearly 700 years between the first and second royal tomb. Also, there’s no definitive historical records to confirm the identity of these three kings, despite the fact that they’re believed to be three Bak kings of Silla. Lastly, early Silla tombs weren’t typically so large. Whoever they may be, the tombs are beautiful in the mature pine forest, especially during the early morning light that peaks through the trees.

B: The “Seated Stone Buddha of Samneung Valley in Gyeongju”

Continuing up the trail, you’ll next come to the headless “Seated Stone Buddha of Samneung Valley in Gyeongju.” This headless statue is a further 15 minutes up the trail, or 400 metres. This statue used to be buried in the valley, but was later unearthed and placed in its present location. It stands 1.6 metres in height and 1.56 metres wide. It’s missing both its head and hands. The most impressive feature of this statue are the details found in the folds of the monk’s robe. The statue dates back to around the mid-8th century during the peak of Unified Silla Period (668-935 A.D.). It was rediscovered in 1964 by a team of researchers from Dongguk University in a pine forest 100 metres to the south of its current location. It’s rather amazing that this headless statue isn’t even a provincial treasure. On any other mountain in any other city, it would definitely be a provincial treasure.

C: The “Rock-Carved Statue of Avalokiteshvara Bodhisattva in Samneung Valley”

Further along, and the next thing to be enjoyed, is the relief of “Rock-carved Statue of Avalokiteshvara Bodhisattva in Samneung Valley.” Only 50 metres north of the “Seated Stone Buddha of Samneung Valley in Gyeongju,” you’ll find this relief. The relief depicts Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). It stands 1.55 metres in height, and it’s slightly elevated off the ground. The image of Gwanseeum-bosal stands atop a lotus pedestal. The image wears a crown on its head, and it has a gentle smile on its face. In its hand, it holds a medicinal bottle. Surrounding its head is a nimbus, and what’s most interesting about this relief is that the natural colours of the rock were used so that Gwanseeum-bosal’s lips could be red. The exact date of the relief is unknown; however, it’s estimated to have been created around the 8th to 9th century based upon its style. This relief is a Gyeongsangbuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage.

D: The “Rock-Carved Buddha Triads in Samneung Valley”

Back on the main trail, and walking an additional 200 metres, you’ll next come to the “The “Rock-Carved Buddha Triads in Samneung-gyegok Valley.” The two line-carved stone Buddha relief triads are carved on the eastern and western walls of a natural rock formation. It’s unclear as to when this was first created, but it’s generally believed to be from Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.). And rather interestingly, there appears the remains of a shrine hall on the right-side rock in this natural rock formation. It’s assumed that this shrine hall was constructed to help protect the reliefs from the elements.

The triad to the left is four metres in height and width. The central figure in this triad is standing on top of a lotus pedestal, while the two accompanying Bodhisattvas are kneeling. They appear as though they are venerating the central Buddha.

The triad to the right is slightly larger than the first with it being four metres in height but seven metres in width. However, this triad is more worn than the first. The central figure in this triad is Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) judging from its mudra (suin). Amita-bul is surrounded by a beautiful nimbus, as he sits on a lotus flower. Joining Amita-bul is Gwanseeum-bosal and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). Together, the two are a Gyeongsangbuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage.

E: The “Stone Seated Buddha in Samneunggye Valley of Namsan Mountain, Gyeongju”

The next thing to enjoy in the lower part of the Samneung Valley, and about 180 metres from the “Rock-Carved Buddha Triads in Samneung-gyegok Valley,” is the “Stone Seated Buddha in Samneung Valley of Namsan Mountain, Gyeongju,” which is a Korean Treasure.

The statue is perched on a mountain plateau, and it appears to be Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) judging from the mudra of “Touching the Earth.” This statue is placed on a beautiful lotus pedestal, and it’s made from granite. Sometime in its past, it was disfigured; and then to make matters worse, it was haphazardly put back together using cement. Fortunately, around 2007, this past misdeed was rectified. And now the statue, with its beautiful mandorla, was restored to its former glory.

The statue has small spiral-shaped hair on its head. And near the crown, it has a large topknot. The face is round and well-proportioned, and the ears are small. The robe that it wears hangs over its left shoulder. It’s believed to have first been created in the 8th or 9th century during Unified Silla.

F: “Line-carved Seated Buddha of Samneung Valley”

If you look up and towards the east, but before you start to make your ascent up the steeper part of the valley, you’ll see the “Line-carved Seated Buddha of Samneung Valley” through the trees. You’ll need to look closely because it’s somewhat hard to see.

This is a seated Buddha relief on a rock that’s about ten metres tall. The relief itself is 5.2 metres in height. The image appears to be that of either Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) or Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). The relief faces west. It’s carved with the body formed entirely of lined-carvings, while the face has more details to it. It has a rather unique design to it. It has a broad nose, narrow eyes, and it has large lips. The entire body is surrounded by a mandorla, while the head is surrounded by a nimbus. With its hands, it appears to be forming the “Dharmachakra Mudra” (Turning the Wheel of Dharma). The relief is believed to have been created around the end of Unified Silla or the start of the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), and it’s a Gyeongsangbuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage.

G: Sangseonam Hermitage

Having finished with the lower part of the Samneung Valley, you’ll now need to make your way to the upper part of the valley. The final 500 metres of the valley is both steep and strenuous. But with that being said, it’s also the most beautiful part of the valley, as well.

The next thing you’ll come to is the Sangseonam Hermitage. The hermitage was recently added, but it was built on the former foundations of a Silla temple site. The first thing to greet you at the hermitage are the monks’ dorms. It’s next to these dorms that you’ll find the only shrine hall at Sangseonam Hermitage. This is the Daeung-jeon Hall. Immediately upon entering the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a triad of statues on the main altar. This triad is centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). On the far left wall, you’ll find a painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). And next to this, you’ll find another shaman painting; this one, dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). To the right of the main altar, on the other hand, you’ll find two additional murals. The first is a modern painting dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife), while the other is a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).

H: The “Samneung Valley Seated Sakyamuni Buddha”

To the north of Sangseonam Hermitage, you’ll find a trail that will eventually bring you to the “Samneung Valley Seated Sakyamuni Buddha.” The stone relief and statue were formed from a massive natural rock wall. The “Samneung Valley Seated Sakyamuni Buddha” stands six metres in height, and it’s thought to depict a seated image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). The image is slightly reclined with half-closed eyes. The head is a three-dimensional image, while the body is a two-dimensional line relief. The image faces the south, and it’s thought to date back to late Unified Silla. Without a doubt, the “Samneung Valley Seated Sakyamuni Buddha” is the crowning achievement of the valley, and it was masterfully created. Also, it’s another Gyeongsangbuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage in the Samneung Valley.

I: Sangaam Rock

The very final thing to be seen along the upper part of the Samneung Valley is the Sangaam Rock. This craggy rock is said to cure love-sickness, as well as granting wishes for women that want baby boys. There’s a shrine on the east side of the rock with a headless Buddha to pray to. It’s also from up here that you get a commanding view of the valley from on high.

How To Get There

To get to the Samneung Valley on Mt. Namsan from the Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #500. You’ll need to take this bus for 20 stops, or 30 minutes, and get off at the “Samneung – 삼릉 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to head east.

And if you’d rather take a taxi from the Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal to get to the Samneung Valley, it’ll be 6.6 km, or 10 minutes, and it’ll cost you around 9,000 won (one way).

Overall Rating: 10/10

You’ll be hard pressed to find a place, other than Samneung Valley on Mt. Namsan, packed with so many historical artifacts. And they’re just right there, out in the open, to be enjoyed. There are statues, stone reliefs, shrines, and even a hermitage. It’s truly unlike anything else in Gyeongju. In fact, it’s unlike anything else in Korea. So if you want to experience something a little different, and something away from the tourist traps in Gyeongju, make sure you make your way over to Samneung Valley on Mt. Namsan.