Seonseoksa Temple – 선석사 (Seongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do)
Temple History
Seonseoksa Temple is located in northern Seongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do to the southwest of Mt. Seonseoksan (742.3 m). The name of the temple, in English, means “Seon [Zen] Rock Temple.” The temple was first built in 692 A.D. by the famed monk Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.). Alongside other temples like Beomeosa Temple, Hwaeomsa Temple, and Buseoksa Temple, Seonseoksa Temple is considered by some to be one of the Ten Avatamsaka Temples (Hwaeom Sipchal, 華嚴十刹). However, since this doesn’t appear in either the “Account of Uisang’s Teachings” (義湘傳敎) in the Samguk Yusa or in Choe Chiwon’s “Biography of Dharma Master Beopjang” (法藏和尙傳), it’s difficult to regard Seonseoksa Temple as one of the Ten Avatamsaka Temples (Hwaeom Sipchal).
Originally, the temple was known as Singwangsa Temple, and it was located west of the temple’s current location. In 1361, the monk Hyegun (1320-1376) became the abbot of Singwangsa Temple and relocated the temple to its current location. During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), the temple was destroyed by fire during the Imjin War (1592-1598). The temple was later rebuilt in 1684 by the monks Hyemuk and Naheon. Rather strangely, and in 1725, the temple was moved back to its former western location, but it was later relocated, once more, to its former/current location. It was at this time, in 1804, that the oldest buildings at Seonseoksa Temple like the Daeung-jeon Hall, the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, the Chilseong-gak Hall, and the Sanwang-gak Hall were all built.
Another rather interesting feature of Seonseoksa Temple is its location, some 200 meters from Taebong, which is where the Placental Chamber (Taesil) of King Sejong’s son is located in Seongju. As a result, Seonseoksa Temple was designated as the guardian temple of the royal prince’s Taesil, and King Yeongjo of Joseon (r. 1724-1776) bestowed a folding screen with his calligraphy to the temple. This was formerly housed inside the Eopil-gak Hall. And while this shrine hall was later destroyed by fire, the folding screen was fortunately preserved.
Seonseoksa Temple is the largest traditional temple in Seongju. It’s also home to one Korean Treasure, the “Hanging Painting of Seonseoksa Temple, Seongju (The Vulture Peak Assembly),” as well as the Daeung-jeon Hall, which is a Gyeongsangbuk-do Tangible Cultural Property.
Temple Legends
There are a couple of legends connected to the temple. First, the name of the temple, Seonseoksa Temple, is connected to its relocation in 1361. While Naong Hyegun (1320-1376) was preparing the prospective temple site, a large rock was discovered. Instead of digging it up, it still remains on the temple grounds buried in the courtyard in front of the Daeung-jeon Hall with just the top of the rock exposed. The reason for this is that “seon” (禪) has multiple meanings in hanja. One of these meanings is “to level/to prepare the ground.” So not only does “seon” mean “meditation,” but it also has the perfect name for a temple that wants to remove a large rock that might be in the middle of a prospective temple site.
Another legend states that around the former location of the Eopil-gak Hall, there once existed a bamboo grove called Ssanggokjuk. It’s said that the wind would blow through the bamboo and create a strange sound. Flutes made from this bamboo are said to have produced such a clear and pure sound that they were unmatched by other flutes. These flutes were known as Gyobangjeok.
Temple Layout
From the temple parking lot, you’ll first be greeted by a two-story structure. This structure functions as both the Cheonwangmun Gate and the Boje-ru Pavilion. The exterior walls are adorned with a pair of Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors) on the front side of the first story of the structure, while the backside is adorned with pine trees, lotus flowers, and a red sun. Stepping inside the first story of the Cheonwangmun Gate, you’ll notice a beautiful, modern collection of paintings dedicated to the Four Heavenly Kings. As for the second story, it functions as a dharma hall for larger lectures.
Having passed through the two-story structure, you’ll notice the Daeung-jeon Hall straight in front of you. Along the way, you’ll pass by a modern three-story pagoda. As for the early 19th century main hall, its exterior walls are adorned in simple dancheong colours. Stepping inside, you’ll notice a mid-Joseon Dynasty triad of statues on the main altar. The central image is dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This central image is flanked by statues of Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power). What’s interesting about the central image of Seokgamoni-bul is that the nimbus that surrounds its head and the mandorla that surrounds its body are hollow. Instead of being filled with flames or lotus flowers, there is a simple wooden outline that traces the form of the nimbus and mandorla. Above this triad, and protruding out from the ceiling of the main hall, is a cartoonish-looking dragon head. To the left of the main altar triad is an older Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). Unfortunately, it’s encased in a thick glass case that’s in need of a good cleaning, so it makes it very difficult to see the historic painting.
To the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a collection of buildings that include the monks’ dorms, the Beomjong-gak Pavilion that houses the four traditional Buddhist percussion instruments, as well as a shrine hall that houses the historic Gwaebul. The exterior of this shrine hall is adorned with beautiful, modern paintings dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion), Bohyeon-bosal, Munsu-bosal, Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), and a pair of white cranes. Stepping inside this shrine hall, and encased inside a climate controlled enclosure, is the “Hanging Painting of Seonseoksa Temple, Seongju (The Vulture Peak Assembly).” This Korean Treasure dates back to 1702, and it was created to pray for the long life of the king, queen, and crown prince. Typically, this style of painting is only exhibited during Buddha’s Birthday festivities at the temple.
To the rear of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the compact Sanwang-gak Hall. The exterior walls have a pair of paintings. On the left, you’ll find a chipped painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), who is joined by an orange tiger underneath a red pine tree. And on the right exterior wall, you’ll find what appears to be a Sinseon (Taoist Immortal) painting. Before entering the Sanwang-gak Hall, you’ll notice a circular wood plate with an image of an agitated blue Gwimyeon (Monster Mask) on it. Pass below this and the signboard for the shaman shrine hall. Entering, you’ll be welcomed by a rather ordinary image of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit).
To the immediate right of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Myeongbu-jeon Hall. Rather strangely, the exterior walls are adorned with images of Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha), birds, and flowers. Stepping inside, you’ll find the main altar occupied by a golden-capped image of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). Flanking this central image on either side are ten images of the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld). Both the statues and paintings are superb. And all of these images are protected by two eye-popping images of Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors).
The final shrine hall that visitors can explore at Seonseoksa Temple is the older Chilseong-gak Hall to the right of the Myeongbu-jeon Hall. The exterior is adorned with intricate dancheong patterns. Stepping inside, and to your immediate left, is the large, new painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). And straight ahead, and on the main altar, you’ll find a pair of older paintings dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars).
How To Get There
From the Seongju Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #0 from the “Seongju Bus Euimunhwa-senteo (Gijeom) – 성주버스의문화센터(기점) 승차” bus stop. From this bus stop, take Bus #0 for 15 stops and get off at the “Sejong Daewang Jataesil Hacha – 세종대자태 하차” bus stop. In total, the bus trip should take about 24 minutes. From where this bus drops you off, you’ll head south for about 150 metres to where the road forks. From this fork, then head north for about 300 metres.
But if public transportation isn’t your thing, you can simply take a taxi from the Seongju Intercity Bus Terminal. The taxi ride should take about 20 minutes, or 15 km, and it’ll cost you around 20,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 7/10
For a lesser known major temple, Seonseoksa Temple definitely has its fair share to see like the interior of the Daeung-jeon Hall that includes mid-Joseon Dynasty statues that are atypically surrounded by hollow nimbuses and mandorlas. In addition, the unique painting inside the Chilseong-gak Hall dedicated to the various constellations in the two paintings of the Seven Stars are an interesting find, as well. The statues and paintings inside the Myeongbu-jeon Hall are superb; and if you plan your trip right, you might just be able to see the lone Korean Treasure at Seonseoksa Temple, the “Hanging Painting of Seonseoksa Temple, Seongju (The Vulture Peak Assembly).”
