Anilsa Temple – 안일사 (Nam-gu, Daegu)
Temple History
Anilsa Temple, which means “Peace and Ease Temple” in English, is located to the north of Mt. Apsan (658.7m) in Nam-gu, Daegu. As for how the temple got its name, it’s believed that King Taejo of Goryeo (r. 918 – 943 A.D.) suffered a crushing defeat against King Gyeon Hwon of Later Baekje (r. 892-935 A.D.) at the Battle of Gongsan. Initially, King Taejo hid at the neighbouring Eunjiksa Temple. Restless, he later travelled to Anilsa Temple, which is surrounded by rock formations that appear like folding screens. This defensive position gave King Taejo peace of mind, so he was finally able to relax. Even today, about 500 metres south of Anilsa Temple, there’s a cave known as “Wanggeon Cave,” which is where King Taejo is believed to have once stayed.
It’s believed that Anilsa Temple was first founded in 927 A.D. by the monk Yeongjo. However, after it was first established, very little of its history is known. It’s not until the early 20th century that more becomes known about the temple like on January 15, 1915, when thirteen individuals including Yun Sang-tae (1882~1942), Seo Sang-il (1887-1962), and Yi Si-yeong (1869-1953) gathered at Anilsa Temple to make a vow to dedicate themselves to the liberation of Korea. From this, they established the Central Headquarters of the Joseon National Sovereignty Restoration Group, which was a secret resistance organization. After the March 1st Movement of 1919, Anilsa Temple became a base for anti-Japanese resistance. This included fundraising to support the Provisional Government in Shanghai.
Anilsa Temple was reconstructed by the monk Gyeongsong in 1932 and again in 1960 by the monk Cheol-in. In 1972, the monk Sijin rebuilt the Daeung-jeon Hall. And in 2000, the abbot Hyejeong initiated new construction on a new Daeung-jeon Hall in 2000. This would be completed in 2008. In 2013, the Gwaneum-jeon Hall was built. Finally, in 2018, the Iljumun Gate, Jong-gak Pavilion, and monks’ quarters were constructed, as well.
Anilsa Temple is one of the 982 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea, and it’s also home to the “Wooden Seated Sakyamui Buddha of Anilsa Temple, Daegu.”
Temple Layout
You first make your way up the side of a mountain to get to Anilsa Temple. It can be quite steep in parts over the 800 metre climb. The elevation also rises by 300 metres, so definitely bring your hiking boots/shoes. And I definitely don’t recommend the hike during the summer in Daegu.
When you eventually do arrive, you’ll notice Anilsa Temple to your right. The first thing to greet you is a wall. Beyond this wall, and slightly to the left, you’ll find the Iljumun Gate. Adorning the interior of this entry gate are a pair of Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors) on both doors, as well as a painting of an all-white Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and a collection of dongja (attendants) carrying a large peach that’s symbolic of immortality.
Entering the main temple courtyard, you’ll see the Daeung-jeon Hall right in front of you. However, before visiting the main hall, take a turn to your right to see the Jong-gak Pavilion that houses a beautiful bronze bell with a large Poroe (The Dragon that Adorns the Top of the Temple Bell) adorning the top of the bell. And to the immediate left of the Iljumun Gate is the administrative office at Anilsa Temple.
Now making your way towards the newly constructed Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find that the exterior walls are adorned in large Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals). Stepping inside, you’ll find the “Wooden Seated Sakyamui Buddha of Anilsa Temple, Daegu.” This central main altar image was first created in 1694 by the monk-artisans Takmil and Boeung. We know this because of the document, the “Record of the Creation of Śākyamuni Buddha” found inside the statue. Also, there was another document found inside the statue entitled “Record of Fundraising for the Re-Gilding of the Buddha,” which indicates that the statue was originally enshrined at Daegoksa Temple in Uiseong, Gyeongsangbuk-do. In 1954, the “Wooden Seated Sakyamui Buddha of Anilsa Temple, Daegu” was transferred to Anilsa Temple. It was at this time that the statue underwent re-gilding. On May 11, 2015, it was designated as a Daegu Metropolitan City Tangible Cultural Property; however, due to a revision in the revision in the Enforcement Decree of the Cultural Heritage Protection Act on June 29, 2021, its classification was removed. Not sure why this happened, as I was unable to find any more additional information on it.
As for the statue itself, it measures 105 cm in height, and it’s seen making the Touching the Earth mudra. It’s head is slightly lowered, and it gazes downward. The facial features are broad and angular with a narrow forehead, long ears reaching its shoulders, elongated eyes and eyebrows, a short nose, and thin lips. The robe that it wears leaves its right shoulder bare. Additionally, its right arm is presumed to have been repaired more recently. Overall, the statue is beautifully preserved and joined on either side by statues dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) and Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). This main altar triad is backed by a beautiful golden relief. And hanging on the far right wall is another golden relief; this time, dedicated to a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the far left of the Daeung-jeon Hall is the Gwaneum-jeon Hall. This building almost looks like an administrative office or monks’ dorms, but it’s not. Housed inside is a multi-armed and headed image of the Bodhisattva of Compassion. It’s quite stunning.
Between the Daeung-jeon Hall and the Gwaneum-jeon Hall are a set of stairs that lead up towards the Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with images of Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities). It’s also from the heights of the shaman shrine hall that you get beautiful views of the valley below and southern Daegu off in the distance. Stepping inside the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find three images dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), and Yongwang (The Dragon King). Yongwang is surrounded by two fierce dragons, as he sits upon his watery throne. Sanshin sits beneath a large red pine with a fierce tiger by his side. And Dokseong meditatively sits beneath a large pine tree, as he’s attended to by two dongja (attendants).
How To Get There
The easiest and most practical way to get to Anilsa Temple from the Daegu Intercity Bus Terminal is to simply take a taxi. Otherwise, you’d be taking a couple of buses and walking a whole heck of a lot (and the hike up to Anilsa Temple is enough). The taxi ride will take about 20 minutes, or 10 km, and it’ll cost you around 12,000 won (one way). Where the taxi drops you off, you’ll need to hike around 800 metres up the mountain. The temple is at about 300 metres in elevation so be prepared.
Overall Rating: 6/10
Anilsa Temple is a bit of a hike, but the views definitely make it worthwhile. Also, there are several places along the way to catch your breath. In addition to the views, you can also enjoy the 17th century “Wooden Seated Sakyamui Buddha of Anilsa Temple, Daegu” inside the Daeung-jeon Hall. Other things to keep an eye out for are the paintings contained within the Iljumun Gate, the image of the Bodhisattva of Compassion housed inside the Gwaneum-jeon Hall, and the three paintings inside the Samseong-gak Hall. Take your time at Anilsa Temple to fully appreciate this temple.
