Birosa Temple – 비로사 (Yeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do)
Temple History
Birosa Temple is located in Sobaeksan National Park in Yeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do. As for the name of the temple, it gets its name from Birojana-bul (The Buddha of Cosmic Energy). The temple was first founded in Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.) by the monk Jinjeong and was originally known as Sobaeksansa Temple.
Jinjeong, who was so poor that he couldn’t marry, devoted himself to the care of his widowed mother. Jinjeong heard that Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.) was teaching several monks on Mt. Taebaeksan, so Jinjeong left home to become a monk under Uisang-daesa, where he studied Hwaeom Buddhism. However, upon hearing of his mother’s death three years later, Jinjeong entered a meditative state for the next seven days. Purportedly deeply moved by Jinjeong’s filial piety, Uisang-daesa went to Chudong on Mt. Sobaesan. While there, Uisang-daesa built a thatched hut, gathered 3,000 of his disciples, and delivered lectures on the Avataṃsaka Sūtra (Hwaeom-gyeong) for the next 90 days. When the lectures concluded after 90 days, Jinjeong’s mother appeared to him in a dream and said, “I have already been reborn in heaven.”
Scholars believe that Chudong was the location of the present Birosa Temple. And according to the “Chronicles of Birosa” (Birosa Sajukgi), scholars believe that Uisang-daesa first founded the temple in 683 A.D. and named it Birosa Temple.
In late Unified Silla, a monk rebuilt the temple and invited the monk Jingong (855-937 A.D.) to reside at Birosa Temple. Later, King Taejo of Goryeo (918-943 A.D.) visited Birosa Temple, listened to Jingong’s teachings, and greatly revered the monk. And when Jingong died in 937 A.D., King Taejo of Goryeo gave the monk the title “Jingong-daesa” and financed a stupa for the monk known as “Bobeop” (普法).
In 1126, King Injong of Goryeo (r. 1122-1146) ordered Kim Busik (1075–1151), who was the supervisor behind the compilation of the Samguk Sagi, to enshrine one of the Buddha’s tooth relics at Birosa Temple. Later, and in 1385, the monk Hwanam rebuilt Birosa Temple.
Birosa Temple would be destroyed by fire during the Imjin War (1592-1598). In 1609, the monk Gyeonghui rebuilt the temple. Then in 1684, the monk Wolha expanded the temple. The temple would remain an active temple according to historical documents through the 17th to 20th centuries. In 1907, Birosa Temple would be destroyed, once more, by fire. In 1919, the shrine halls were rebuilt by the abbot Beomseon. And in 1927, the monks dorms were rebuilt and then repaired in 1932. The shrine halls were also repaired at this time, as well. After the Korean War (1950-1953), the rebuilt buildings were, again, destroyed by fire. In 1992, the current abbot, Seonggong, conducted a major restoration of Birosa Temple. This included the construction of the Jeokgwang-jeon in 1995, the Nahan-jeon Hall in 1996, the Samseong-gak Hall in 1998, and the Iljumun Gate in 1999.
In total, Birosa Temple is home to two Korean Treasures. They are the “Stone Seated Amitabha Buddha of Birosa Temple, Yeongju” and the “Stone Seated Vairocana Buddha of Birosa Temple, Yeongju.” The temple is also home to three Gyeongsangbuk-do Tangible Cultural Property. They are the “Amitabha Buddha Altar Painting of Biro-sa Temple, Yeongju,” the “Stone Flag Supports at Samga-dong, Yeongju,” and the “Stele of Monk Jigong at Birosa Temple.” Additionally, Birosa Temple is one of the 982 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.
Temple Layout
You first make your way up to Birosa Temple up a long, winding scenic trail/road. In total, the hike from the Sobaeksan National Park parking lot to Birosa Temple is 2.2 km. No cars are allowed inside this part of the park except for authorized vehicles. However, the hike up is rather pleasant, as it skirts a beautiful stream for most of the way. In total, the hike up will take anywhere from 50 to 60 minutes.
When you finally do arrive at the outskirts of the temple grounds, you’ll be welcomed by the beautiful Iljumun Gate. The Iljumun Gate is wonderfully adorned with dancheong, and it stands rather stately. Up the uneven set of stone stairs, and in a clearing, you’ll next come to the “Stone Flag Supports at Samga-dong, Yeongju.” When there’s a ceremony or event at a temple, a flag (dang) is hung from these flag supports on a long pole called a danggan. While both the flag and the long pole no longer exists, the two stone flag supports remain. The “Stone Flag Supports at Samga-dong, Yeongju” appear to be in good condition considering they date back to Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.), probably around the time when the temple was first founded. The inner portions of the flag supports are flat, while the outer portions have wide carved surfaces, creating a curved shape. Additionally, several roof tile fragments were found in this area, providing important evidence of the former scale of Birosa Temple.
Continuing up the stone stairs, you’ll finally come to the lower courtyard at Birosa Temple. In this area, and to the left, you’ll find the newly constructed Beomjong-gak Pavilion, which solely houses a large, bronze bell. To the right of this pavilion, you’ll find the “Stele of Buddhist Monk Jingong at Birosa Temple.” Jingong was a prominent monk at the turn of Unified Silla and the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). After his death, both a stele and a stupa were erected to honour him.
The “Stele of Buddhist Monk Jingong at Birosa Temple” consists of a tortoise-shaped base, a body with an inscription detailing the life of Jingong, and a capstone engraved with clouds and dragons. The stele was found collapsed, and it was repaired in 1972 with some of its damaged parts being replaced with new stones. During 2008 excavations at Birosa Temple, the lower portion of the body stone was discovered, which contained a missing portion of the original inscription. The stupa that once accompanied the stele went missing sometime in the 1960s.
To the right rear of the “Stele of Buddhist Monk Jingong at Birosa Temple,” you’ll find stone artifacts from Birosa Temple. And next to these is the newly constructed Wolmyeong-ru Pavilion. The first story of this pavilion acts as an entryway to the upper courtyard, while the second story is a large pavilion for people to sit and enjoy the view. And to the right of the Wolmyeong-ru Pavilion is the administrative office and kitchen at Birosa Temple.
Up the stone stairs beyond the Wolmyeong-ru Pavilion, you’ll come to the upper courtyard at Birosa Temple. Slightly to the left, you’ll find the Jeokgwang-jeon Hall, which was newly constructed in 1995. The exterior walls to this hall are adorned with murals dedicated to Uisang-daesa and Gwanseeum-bosal. Stepping inside the Jeokgwang-jeon Hall, you’ll find the pair of Korean Treasures at Birosa Temple inside and on the main altar. The statue to the left is the “Stone Seated Amitabha Buddha of Birosa Temple, Yeongju.” Originally, this statue had a mandorla, but it was thrown away after it was broken. Only the octagonal lotus pedestal still remains. The image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) measures 113 cm in height. Beautifully proportioned, the statue is believed to date back to the 9th century. Joining this statue to the right is the “Stone Seated Vairocana Buddha of Birosa Temple, Yeongju.” Again, this stone statue is beautifully rendered with a peaceful face and broad shoulders. Slightly taller than the image of Amita-bul, this statue of Birojana-bul (The Buddha of Cosmic Energy) stands 117 cm in height. With its robe covering its left shoulder, the image of Birojana-bul makes the “Diamond Fist of Wisdom” mudra (suin). This statue also dates back to the 9th century.
Also taking up residence inside the Jeokgwang-jeon Hall, and backing the two 9th century stone statues, is the “Amitabha Buddha Altar Painting of Birosa Temple, Yeongju.” This altar painting mainly depicts an Amita-bul triad. Amita-bul appears in the painting seated in the lotus position with Bodhisattvas standing on either side of him. These Bodhisattvas are Gwanseeum-bosal and Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). The painting is dominated by this triad. But also found within this painting are smaller images of Ananda and Mahākāśyapa, as well as Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) riding a lion and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power) riding a white elephant. While now darker in colour, the painting was originally much brighter and pastel in tone. The altar painting is believed to date back to 1832. And joining this painting inside the Jeokgwang-jeon Hall is a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) on the far right wall.
Out in front of the Jeokgwang-jeon Hall is a highly damaged pagoda. It’s so damaged that it’s impossible to tell just how many stories there might have once been to this pagoda. However, there do appear to be reliefs of floating Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities) at the base of the damaged pagoda, as well as a lion relief at its centre.
To the right of the Jeokgwang-jeon Hall is the Nahan-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are filled Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside the Nahan-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). The main altar is joined on either side by vibrant statues and mural dedicated to the sixteen Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha).
To the rear of these two shrine halls, you’ll find the Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with murals dedicated to Bicheon, as well as idyllic landscapes. Stepping inside, you’ll find a triad of shaman paintings dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), Chilseong (The Seven Stars), and Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). All appear to have been created by the same artist and a rather traditional in appearance.
How To Get There
From the Yeongju Bus Terminal, you can take Bus #26 to get to Birosa Temple. You’ll need to take this bus for 21 stops, or 27 minutes, and get off at the “Samga-ri – 삼가리하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to first make your way towards the Sobaeksan National Park parking lot. In total, the hike from the bus stop to Birosa Temple will take one hour, or 2.6 km. It isn’t too strenuous, and there are plenty of places to stop along the way and enjoy the view.
Overall Rating: 8/10
Birosa Temple is beautifully located in Sobaeksan National Park. In addition to all of this natural beauty, you can enjoy both Korean Treasures. The 9th century images dedicated to Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) and Birojana-bul (The Buddha of Cosmic Energy) are stunning. While not treasures, both the newly constructed Iljumun Gate and the Wolmyeong-ru Pavilion are beautiful, as well. Walking around the temple grounds, you get a good idea of just how big and beautiful Birosa Temple must have once been. While not as large as it once was, Birosa Temple is still quite impressive and definitely worth a visit the next time you’re in Yeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do.
