Bodeokam Hermitage – 보덕암 (Gyeongju)
Hermitage History
Bodeokam Hermitage is located in eastern Gyeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do to the north of Mt. Bunggeumsan (275.8 m). There is no exact written record about the founding of Bodeokam Hermitage. However, from an inscription that was created for the Dharma Hall rebuilt in 1925, it reads, “From the era of Silla’s founding to the reign of Queen Seondeok [r. 632-647 A.D.], over a thousand years have passed.” This suggests that the hermitage may have been first established during the reign of Queen Seondeok of Silla.
Additionally, the hermitage recently changed its name from Gukguam Hermitage to that of Bodeokam Hermitage. This change is also chronicled in the inscription from the time of the Dharma Hall’s reconstruction in 1925. The inscription reads, “There is a hermitage where a bird spreads its two wings wide and perches upon a rock—this is Bodeok (普德, ‘Universal Virtue’), and taking this name signifies the merit of generosity (보시공덕) in the Buddhist tradition.” However, and despite the renaming of the hermitage around this time, local residents of Nasan-ri still call the hermitage Gukguam Hermitage.
Buddhism would flourish during the reign of Queen Seondeok of Silla. Additionally, the location of Bodeokam Hermitage, while located deep in a remote valley, is thought to have an auspicious location based upon pungsu-jiri (geomancy/feng shui). In fact, it’s thought to be one of the most ideal. With all that being said, and at the end of Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.), as the nation fell apart due to internal strife and external threats, King Gyeongsun of Silla (r. 927-935 A.D.), the last monarch of the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.), would flee the capital and take refuge in a remote, rugged valley. It was here, while in the rugged mountains of eastern Gyeongju that King Gyeongsun discovered a small hermitage with a cave. This cave was so large that two people could take shelter inside it. This place is now known as Bodeokam Hermitage.
Because the hermitage saved King Gyeongsun’s life, the hermitage came to be known as Gukguam Hermitage, which means “Saving the Nation Hermitage” in English. Even today, you can still see the cave where King Gyeongsun once hid next to the current Wontong-jeon Hall.
Until Korean liberation from the Japanese in 1945, Bodeokam Hermitage was directly affiliated with Girimsa Temple. Now, however, it’s a branch hermitage of Bulguksa Temple. Bodeokam Hermitage is one of the 982 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.
Hermitage Layout
From the hermitage parking lot, you’ll make your way up a zig-zagging set of steep stairs. Finally climbing all of the stairs, you’ll first be welcomed to the hermitage grounds by a guard dog with a large bell tied around its neck. At first, I thought it was the punggyeong (fish-shaped wind chimes) blowing in the breeze. Instead, it was the guard dog roaming the hermitage grounds.
Past the guard dog, you’ll next come to the administrative office and kitchen at Bodeokam Hermitage. Beyond this is the cave where King Gyeongsun of Silla once took shelter. And beyond the large opening to the cave, you’ll find the Wontong-jeon Hall. This is the shrine hall that you first saw precariously placed on the ledge of a large sheer rock cliff. The exterior walls to the main hall are adorned in simple dancheong colours. Stepping inside, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a beautiful statue dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). Joining this statue to the left is a golden hooded statue of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). Both are beautifully rendered. To the left of the main altar, you’ll find a memorial shrine for the dead. And to the right of the main altar, you’ll find a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
Backtracking, and up a new set of stairs to the left of the administrative office and past the guard dog’s shelter, you’ll make your way up towards the Sanshin-gak Hall. As you go, you’ll find the monks’ dorms midway up the hike to your right. Don’t be confused. Continue your journey upwards and to the left. Finally, and well-hidden, you’ll find the Sanshin-gak Hall. The exterior walls of the shaman shrine hall are left unadorned with an absence of dancheong colours. Stepping inside, you’ll find a collection of shaman murals. So the Sanshin-gak Hall at Bodeokam Hermitage functions as a Samseong-gak Hall. The first painting that you’ll find inside the Sanshin-gak Hall is an older painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). In this painting, Sanshin is joined by a purplish tiger that seemingly has no legs. While these legs are well-hidden, the purple tiger almost appears like a snake as it wraps itself around the Mountain Spirit. Also housed inside the Sanshin-gak Hall is an older mural dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint) and a modern painting dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars).
Making your way back down to the hermitage parking lot, you’ll notice a clearing to your right. In this clearing, and in an open shrine hall, you’ll find the Yongwang-dang Hall. Housed inside the concrete shaman shrine hall, you’ll find a seated image of Yongwang (The Dragon King) seated upon his royal throne. He’s joined by two swirling dragons, rough waters, and a pair of dongja (attendants). It’s also from the Yongwang-dang Hall that you get beautiful views of the hermitage on the cliff’s edge.
How To Get There
Outside of owning your own mode of transportation, Bodeokam Hermitage is nearly impossible to get to.
Overall Rating: 5/10
Bodeokam Hermitage is ruggedly located on the side of a mountain with a beautiful view of the valley below. In addition to the scenery, you can also enjoy the interior of the Wontong-jeon Hall, the modern painting of Yongwang (The Dragon King) housed inside the Yongwang-dang Hall, and the older mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) with a reptilian image of a purple tiger.
