Bulryeongsa Temple – 불령사 (Cheongdo, Gyeongsangbuk-do)
Temple History
Bulryeongsa Temple is located in eastern Cheongdo, Gyeongsangbuk-do to the southwest of Mt. Hyoyangsan (582.3 m). This mountain is also known as Mt. Horangsan. The name of the temple, Bulryeongsa Temple, means “Buddha’s Spirit Temple” in English. As for the name of the temple, it’s called Bulryeongsa Temple because it’s believed that the valley is filled with Buddhist devotion. It’s also believed that the temple was first founded in 645 A.D. by the famed monk Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.).
Eventually, the temple would fall into disrepair. It would eventually be rebuilt in 1912 by the monk Bongju. Afterward, and in 1930, Bulryeongsa Temple was repaired by the abbot Lee Jong-tae. Later, and in 1985, the monks’ dorms and the Sanshin-gak Hall were reconstructed by the monk Jiseon. In 2000, the Inbeop-dang Hall, which was being used as the main hall, was relocated uphill and rebuilt as the current Daeung-jeon Hall. The temple is currently home to around 250 lay followers.
Bulryeongsa Temple is home to one Gyeongsangbuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage. This provincial treasure is the “Brick Pagoda of Bulryeongsa Temple, Cheongdo.” This pagoda is also sometimes called the “Thousand Buddhas Pagoda – 천불탑” for reasons that will soon become obvious. Also, Bulryeongsa Temple is one of the 982 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.
Temple Layout
From the temple parking lot, you’ll make your way up a road with a bit of an incline. Don’t worry, it’s not too far, and it’s next to cascading water. When you finally do get to the top of this incline, you’ll find the administrative office and kitchen straight ahead of you. It’s to the right that you’ll find the first shrine hall at Bulryeongsa Temple. This is the Yongwang-dang Hall. The exterior walls to this shaman shrine hall are adorned in simple dancheong colours. Stepping inside, you’ll find a painting dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King). The Dragon King is seated upon his throne, and he’s holding a golden orb in his hand. On the far right wall, you’ll find a swirling blue dragon. While on the left wall, you’ll find a swirling yellow dragon. To the right of the Yongwang-dang Hall, you’ll find the monks’ dorms at the temple. And to the immediate left of the Yongwang-dang Hall, you’ll find a larger stone statue dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion).
Up a set of stairs between the Yongwang-dang Hall and the statue of Gwanseeum-bosal, you’ll find the Daeung-jeon Hall. The main hall is in close proximity to the neighbouring Geukrak-jeon Hall. In fact, they’re so close that they form a narrow passageway between the two shrine halls.
The Daeung-jeon Hall’s exterior walls are adorned in a set of Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a triad of statues on the main altar centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This central image is flanked on either side by statues of a black haired Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) and Gwanseeum-bosal. To the right and left of the main altar, you’ll find a pair of paintings. These modern paintings are dedicated to Jijang-bosal, as well as a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). Perhaps the most interesting painting inside the Daeung-jeon Hall is the first painting you encountered to your right, as you entered the main hall. There is a beautiful modern painting of the Four Heavenly Kings with two on the top and two on the bottom. I’ve never seen this style of artwork before in Korea. It’s stunning!
Directly across from the Daeung-jeon Hall, and probably just a couple of metres away, is the Geukrak-jeon Hall. This shrine hall is a completely modern structure made from metal and glass. Stepping inside, and on the north side of the structure, you’ll find the main altar. The main altar triad is a rather odd one with a central statue dedicated to Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). This central image is flanked by a statue of Gwanseeum-bosal to the right and a child-like statue of Seokgamoni-bul to the left. To the immediate right of this main altar is another Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). And the entire left wall is a memorial shrine for the dead.
Beyond the Geukrak-jeon Hall and the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a trail that leads up to the Samseong-gak Hall. The right exterior wall is adorned with a tiger, while the left exterior wall is adorned with a Shinseon (Taoist Immortal) holding a white fly-whisk. Stepping inside, you’ll find three paintings. These three rather traditional-looking paintings, from left to right, are dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), Chilseong (The Seven Stars), and Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). Don’t be surprised if a random alarm goes off when visiting this shaman shrine hall. It’s nothing, but it nearly scared me to death.
To the rear of the Samseong-gak Hall, and up another trail to the right, you’ll come to a clearing that houses the “Brick Pagoda of Bulryeongsa Temple, Cheongdo,” or the “Thousand Buddhas Pagoda.” This pagoda is a brick pagoda made from stacking baked clay bricks. What’s interesting about this pagoda is that the bricks are adorned with semi-reliefs of clouds, three seated Buddhas on lotus pedestals and others with three-story stone pagodas on them. The brick pagodas with the Buddhas on lotus pedestal appear to comprise the body stones, while the cloud and three-story pagoda stones are used as roof-stones to the structure. And it’s from these numerous Buddha brick images that the pagoda earned the nickname the “Thousand Buddhas Pagoda.” According to tradition, the baked bricks were carried from the neighbouring village one brick at a time by devotees to help complete the brick pagoda. It’s believed that the pagoda dates back to Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.). The pagoda was then damaged during the Imjin War (1592-1598). The pagoda was left collapsed for a long period of time. It appears as though the brick pagoda was re-constructed during Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-1945) as a three-story structure. Eventually, the pagoda would collapse in 1960. It would be erected, once more, in 1968, but this time as a five-story structure. Then in 2009, the pagoda was rebuilt as a three-story structure. On April 8, 2013, it was designated as Gyeongsangbuk-do Tangible Cultural Property.
How To Get There
From the Cheongdo Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus # 5-9. You’ll need to take this bus for 27 stops, or 41 minutes, and get off at the “Yongsan-ri – 용산리 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to head west and then north for 2.4 km. Most of the walk isn’t too strenuous. Just follow the signs as you go. In total, the hike should take about 35 minutes.
And if you’d rather take a taxi, it’ll take 30 minutes, or 23 km, from the Cheongdo Bus Terminal. And the taxi fare should be around 29,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 6/10
The main highlight, rather unsurprisingly, is the “Brick Pagoda of Bulryeongsa Temple, Cheongdo.” It’s extremely rare to find a brick pagoda with semi-reliefs on it from Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.). In fact, it’s a first for me in over 600 Korean temples. In addition to this unique pagoda, you can also enjoy the cascading water at the entry of the temple grounds, as well as the painting dedicated to the Four Heavenly Kings at the entry of the Daeung-jeon Hall.
