Cheongnyangsa Temple – 청량사 (Bonghwa, Gyeongsangbuk-do)
Temple History
Cheongnyangsa Temple is located in eastern Bonghwa, Gyeongsangbuk-do to the east of Mt. Cheongnyangsan (869.7 m). As for the name of the mountain, Mt. Cheongnyangsa Temple, where the temple is located, it comes from China’s Huayan Ling Mountain. Another reference comes from the Avatamsaka Sutra (Hwaeom-gyeong), which states that the Pure Land of Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) lies to the east of Mt. Cheongnyangsan. Additionally, and according to pungsu-jiri (geomancy, Feng Shui), Cheongnyangsa Temple is located in one of the most auspicious locations. It’s located near twelve peaks known as “Yukyuk-bong” in Korean. As a result, these peaks are said to be formed like lotus petals around the temple. And in the centre of this lotus flower sits Cheongnyangsa Temple.
Historically, and dating all the way back to the Silla Kingdom (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.), prominent monks like Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.) and Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.) practiced in and around Mt. Cheongnyangsan. In fact, it’s believed that Wonhyo-daesa first founded Cheongnyangsa Temple in 663 A.D. And near Geumtap-bong Peak, you’ll find the Eungjin-jeon Hall. It’s believed to have been first built by Uisang-daesa. Originally, the temple established by Wonhyo-daesa and was called Naecheongnyangam Hermitage (Inner Cheongnyangam Hermitage), while the one built by Uisang-daesa was called Oecheongnyangam Hermitage (Outer Cheongnyangam Hermitage). As a result, both are referred to as Cheongnyangsa Temple.
In fact, Mt. Cheongnyangsan used to be home to some 33 hermitages scattered throughout its valleys. And the temple that managed all of these hermitages was known as Yeondaesa Temple (Lotus Platform Temple), which is where the current main hall, the Yuribo-jeon Hall, at Cheongnyangsa Temple is located. As such, Yeondaesa Temple and its 33 hermitages were important to the growth of Silla Buddhism.
These hermitages included Baegunam (白雲庵), Chiwonam (致遠庵), Anjungam (安中庵), Manweolam (滿月庵), Munsusa (文殊寺), Yeonhwaam (蓮花庵), Gwaneumam (觀音庵), Bohyeonam (普賢庵), Uisangam (義湘庵), Geumgangam (金剛庵), Jungdaeam (中臺庵), Mongsangam (夢想庵), Wonhyoam (元曉庵), Sajaam (獅子庵), Jinbulam (眞佛庵), Geugilam (克一庵), Jabiam (慈悲庵), Bomunam (普門庵), Godoam (古道庵), Byeolsilam (別實庵), Chobangsa (草芳寺), Taijasa (太子寺), Sangdaeseungam (上大乘庵), Hadaeseungam (下大乘庵), Goyonghyeoram (古龍穴庵), Gyeongilam (擎日庵), Dongam (東庵), Seam (西庵), Jeongsuam (淨水庵), Seo Chomak (西草幕).
After its founding, Cheongnyangsa Temple was rebuilt during the late Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392) by the monk Beopjang Gobong (1350-1428). And over a long period of time, the temple has undergone numerous rebuilds and reconstruction. In addition to Wonhyo-daesa and Uisang-daesa calling the temple home, Cheongnyangsa Temple was also home to such prominent monks as Jinul (1158-1210), Samyeong-daesa (1544-1610), and Seosan-daesa (1520–1604).
In 1594, Shin Jije (1562-1624) visited Cheongnyangsa Temple with the Gyeongsang Governor, Gov. Hong Risang, where he recorded that by that time the hermitages at the temple were already uninhabited. Also, the Dharma halls and other buildings at Cheongnyangsa Temple were in ruin. In 1604, Yu Jin (1582-1635) visited the temple and noted that only three or four monks now lived at Yeondaesa Temple. And in the late Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), it was recorded by Kim Jeongho that only about 10 hermitages still remained operational.
After the late Joseon Dynasty, Cheongnyangsa Temple quickly fell into disrepair. It’s not until 1984, when the monk Jihyeon became the abbot of the temple, that Cheongnyangsa Temple was slowly re-established. This was accomplished through three phases. In the first phase, which took place from 1990-1992, the main hall was dismantled and restored. Also, the five-story pagoda was erected. The second phase took place from 1992-1998, where the Beomjong-ru Pavilion and the Ansim-dang Hall were built. And the third phase, which started in 1999, comprised of the construction of the monks’ dorms and the Iljumun Gate at the entry of the temple grounds.
In total, Cheongnyangsa Temple is home to two Korean Treasures, the “Wooden Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva Triad of Cheongnyangsa Temple, Bonghwa” and the “Dry-lacquered Seated Bhaisajyaguru Buddha and Excavated Relics of Cheongnyangsa Temple, Bonghwa.” Additionally, the Yuribo-jeon Hall is a Gyeongsangbuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage, and the “Cheongnyangsan Mountain, Bonghwa” is a Scenic Site. Cheongnyangsa Temple is one of the 982 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.
Temple Legends
With any old temple, especially ones situated so scenically on Mt. Cheongnyangsan, there’s sure to be a few legends. And Cheongnyangsa Temple is certainly no exception. One such legend is titled “The Legend of the Three-Horned Ox Mound (Samgakuchong).” According to this legend, when Wonhyo-daesa decided to build Cheongnyangsa Temple, he went down to the village below the future temple site. While walking along a rice field, he met a farmer plowing the rice field with an ox. However, the ox oddly had three horns. The ox refused to obey the farmer’s commands, so Wonhyo-daesa suggested that the farmer donate the ox to the temple. Because the ox was just so wild, the farmer readily agreed.
From the moment that the ox arrived at the temple site, it became gentle and obedient. It would carry timber and all sorts of other material both day and night so that the temple could be constructed. When there was only one day before the temple’s completion, the ox died. Later, it would be revealed that this ox was in fact the incarnation of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife).
Wonhyo-daesa eventually buried the ox. This mound would come to be known as the “Three-Horned Ox Mound,” which is located in front of the Yuribo-jeon Hall at Cheongnyangsa Temple. From this mound grew a pine tree with three branches. This tree would come to be known as the “Three-Horned Ox Pine” (Samgak-usong) and the burial mound would be known as the “Three-Horned Ox Mound” (Samgak-uchong).
As for Mt. Cheongnyangsan, which is where the temple is situated, there are quite a few legends about this scenic mountain. One such legend is titled “An Auspicious Site that Produced Many Widows.” In this legend, a geomancer said, “This mountain [Mt. Cheongnyangsan] is an auspicious site. If you bury someone here, many great people will emerge. However, in the early years, it will produce many widows.”
A greedy local, desiring to benefit from this prophecy, decided to bury someone on the mountain. Afterward, and not long after the man buried someone on the mountain, the local village saw several widows. Concerned that there would be even more widows, the women of the village decided to dig up the grave that was causing all of the problems.
To reach the burial site, these village women needed to cross a river. But when they arrived, they found that heavy rain had caused the river to swell with water. As a result, these women were unable to cross the river, and the grave remained untouched.
Yet another legend connected to Mt. Cheongnyangsan is a legend titled “The Rock That Wouldn’t Fall (Geondeulbawi).” In this legend, there was a monk that was overjoyed to found a temple. However, there was a problem. The location that he wanted to create his future temple had a large rock. The monk didn’t think it would be too big of a problem because he thought that he could have it moved before the temple’s final construction.
The monk was unusually strong, so he was easily able to roll the rock down the neighbouring cliff all by himself. The next day, after he climbed the mountain to his future temple site, and to his great shock and dismay, the rock that he had rolled off the cliff the previous day was back in its original place.
Shocked, the monk closely examined the rock to see if it was the same one from yesterday. And it was. One difference, however, was that at the base of the rock there were clear signs that straw mats had been used to drag the rock up the cliff and onto the same spot as the day previous. Not only that, but the trail and cliffside were marked with signs of straw mats being used. The monk took this as a sign from the Buddha, Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), that a temple shouldn’t be built on the site of the large rock. Instead, the idea should be abandoned, which the monk did.
According to this legend, dokkaebi (goblins) had dragged the large rock up the cliffside and back to its original location. From that day forward, the large rock, which is located near the Cheongnyangsa Temple’s location, is known as the “Wobbling Rock” (Geondeul-bawi)
Temple Layout
Past the Iljumun Gate, you’ll make your way up a side-winding mountain road for about 700 metres. The road can be steep in parts so be prepared. Eventually, you’ll come to the temple parking lot. This parking lot is only used by monks and temple staff. The first building to greet you at the temple is the Ansim-dang Hall, which appears to be off-limits to the general public.
Hovering behind the Ansim-dang Hall is the Beomjong-ru Pavilion. Housed inside the second story of this structure are the four traditional Buddhist percussion instruments. And beautifully framing both the Ansim-dang Hall and the Beomjong-ru Pavilion in the background is the craggy appearance of Mt. Cheongnyangsan.
Continuing your hike up towards the main temple grounds, you’ll find a collection of buildings. These include the monks’ dorms, the administrative office, and meditation centre. To your left, on the other hand, and beyond the pink Crepe myrtles, is the picturesque five-story stone pagoda. Purportedly housed inside this stone pagoda are five sari (crystalized remains) from Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). You get some amazing views of the valley below and the mountains off in the distance from the wooden deck that houses this iconic pagoda. To the rear of this wooden platform is the “Three-Horned Ox Pine” (Samgak-usong) and the “Three-Horned Ox Mound” (Samgak-uchong) from the temple legend.
To the rear of the five-story stone pagoda, and up a little ledge, you’ll find the Yuribo-jeon Hall. Typically, this kind of hall is known as a Yaksa-jeon Hall because it enshrines the central image of Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). The exterior walls are adorned in understated dancheong, while the signboard was handwritten by King Gongmin of Goryeo (r. 1351–1374). According to the Goryeosa, in December 1361, during the Red Turban invasions of Goryeo, during the Second Red Turban invasion, King Gongmin of Goryeo arrived in Andong and too refuge on Mt. Cheongnyangsan with Princess Noguk. Eventually, they would depart Andong in February 1362 but not before writing the signboard for the Yuribo-jeon Hall.
Stepping inside the compact Yuribo-jeon Hall, you’ll find a triad of statues on the main altar. The central image is the “Dry-lacquered Seated Bhaisajyaguru Buddha and Excavated Relics of Cheongnyangsa Temple, Bonghwa.” This image is dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul, and it’s believed to have first been made in 930 A.D, which would make it one of the two oldest known dry lacquer statues in Korea. The dry lacquer technique consists of a clay core that’s covered with multiple layers of lacquered hemp cloth and eventually gilded. Joining this statue to the right is an older statue dedicated to Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) and to the left by a statue dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). This main altar triad is quite unique and was probably formed by the age of the statues rather than any known triads of this Buddha and Bodhisattvas. Also taking up residence inside the main hall is a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the left of the Yuribo-jeon Hall is the Jijang-jeon Hall. Again, the exterior of the shrine hall is adorned in modest dancheong colours. Stepping inside, you’ll find the “Wooden Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva Triad of Cheongnyangsa Temple, Bonghwa.” The central image in this triad is a stunning statue of a green-haired Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). It’s unknown where this triad was originally located because it wasn’t originally housed at Cheongnyangsa Temple. Eventually it would come to be housed at this temple. This triad was originally made in 1578 according to a prayer scroll and votive objects found inside the statues. The inner walls to the Jijang-jeon Hall are lined with smaller black-haired images dedicated to Jijang-bosal.
To the right of the Yuribo-jeon Hall, on the other hand, you’ll find a large bronze replica of a contemplative Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha). Also in this area, you’ll find the Sanshin-gak Hall. It’s a bit hidden behind the Seonbul-jang Hall. Again, the exterior to this shaman shrine hall is understated. Stepping inside, you’ll find a pair of paintings. The painting to the right is dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), while the painting to the left is dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). Both appear to be modern and created by the same artist.
The final shrine hall that visitors can explore at Cheongnyangsa Temple is the Eungjin-jeon Hall. This shrine hall is situated up a trail that skirts Geumtap-bong Peak. It’s about a 20 minute hike, or 680 metres, from the main temple grounds at Cheongnyangsa Temple, but it’s worth it. Simple and understated, the Eungjin-jeon Hall houses a triad of statues. The central image is dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), while the accompanying images are dedicated to Mireuk-bul and Yeondeung-bul (The Past Buddha). It’s also from the Eungjin-jeon Hall that you get a great view of the main temple grounds of Cheongnyangsa Temple.
How To Get There
From the Bonghwa Bus Terminal, you’ll need to cross the street to the south and find a bus stop with Bus #16 departing from it. You’ll need to take this bus for 27 stops, or 49 minutes, and get off at the “Cheongryangsan Doribgongwon hacha – 청량산도립공원하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to make the 700 metre hike up the mountain road. In total, the hike should take about 35 minutes.
And if you’d rather just take a taxi from the Bonghwa Bus Terminal, it’ll take 37 minutes, or 30 km, and it’ll cost you around 40,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 8.5/10
Cheongnyangsa Temple is located in one of the most beautiful spots in all of Korea. Mt. Cheongnyangsan is stunning from its peaks, to its valleys, to the river that flows out in front of it. In addition to all of this natural beauty, you can also enjoy the iconic five-story stone pagoda, the main altar inside the Yuribo-jeon Hall, the “Wooden Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva Triad of Cheongnyangsa Temple, Bonghwa” inside the Jijang-jeon Hall, as well as the distant Eungjin-jeon Hall that provides you with a view of the entire temple grounds below. It all makes for a beautiful temple. While definitely one of the more remote locations for a temple, it’s definitely worth the effort to see.
