Gakhwasa Temple – 각화사 (Bonghwa, Gyeongsangbuk-do)
Temple History
Gakhwasa Temple is located in Bonghwa, Gyeongsangbuk-do to the south of Mt. Gakhwasan (1,202 m). The name of the temple means “Awakening Flower Temple” in English. According to the “Taebaeksan Gakhwasa Reconstruction Record,” it’s believed that Gakhwasa Temple was first founded by Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.) some time during the reign of King Munmu of Silla (r. 661-681 A.D.) possibly in 676 A.D. However, the “Gakhwasa Turtle Stele,” which is believed to date back to the early Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), states that the temple was first founded in 686 A.D.
During the reign of King Yejong of Goryeo (r. 1105-1122), the monk Muae Gyeeung rebuilt Gakhwasa Temple. After this, the temple seems to have undergone numerous rebuilds and repairs. Then in 1757, and according to the Sinjeung Dongguk Yeoji Seungnam (“The Newly Revised ‘Survey of Korea’s Scenic and Notable Places”), Namhwasa Temple changed its name to its current name of Gakhwasa Temple. In 1606, the Taebaeksan Sago (“Taekbaeksan Archives”) were established at Gakhwasa Temple to safeguard these records from “places safe from the three disasters” and to house the “Annals of the Joseon Dynasty.” After this, the temple grew to become one the three major temples in Korea with more than 800 monks.
It’s said that in 1913 the Japanese army burned down the Taebaeksan Sago archives and the temple to suppress the Righteous Army. However, another account states that the archives were destroyed after Korea’s Liberation in 1945. In 1926, the monk Dalhyeon rebuilt five temple buildings including the main hall. In 1970, the monk Geumo rebuilt the monks’ dorms. And in 1988, the archives were excavated and reorganized. After this excavtation, the archives were designated as a Historic Site on February 26, 1991.
In total, Gakhwasa Temple is home to five provincial treasures. They are the Gakhwasa Turtle Stele, the Shinjung-do of Seoam Hermitage, the Amitabha Assembly Painting of Geumbongam Hermitage, the Dokseong-do of Gakhwasa Temple, Bonghwa, and the Shinjung-do of Geumbongam Hermitage, Gakhwasa Temple, Bonghwa. They are Gyeongsangbuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage.
Temple Layout
From the temple parking lot, you’ll make your way up a set of large, stone stairs. Eventually, you’ll come to the two-story Beomjong-gak Pavilion. The first story acts as an entry to the main temple grounds, while the second story acts as the home for the four traditional Buddhist percussion instruments. To the immediate right of the Beomjong-gak Pavilion, you’ll find an older three-story pagoda. The pagoda is damaged in places, and it could date back all the way to either Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.) or Goryeo (918-1392).
Making your way up towards the main hall, you’ll pass by the administrative offices to your right and the monks’ dorms to your left. These are both housed in the lower courtyard alongside the Beomjong-gak Pavilion.
Up another set of stone stairs, and you’ll finally enter the main temple courtyard. Straight ahead of you is the Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with a beautiful set of Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). At the base of the front doors, you’ll find a fierce collection of Gwimyeon (Monster Mask) paintings. The entire exterior of the main hall is beautifully adorned in elaborate dancheong colours. Stepping inside, you’ll find a solitary statue dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) on the main altar. This image of Seokgamoni-bul sits beneath a red canopy with fierce dragons protectively protruding from the underside of the canopy. On either side of the main altar, you’ll find two paintings: one is dedicated to Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom), while the other is dedicated to Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power). Perhaps these two paintings are making up for the lack of statues dedicated to them directly on the main altar alongside Seokgamoni-bul. Hanging on the far left wall, you’ll find a large Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). And on the far right wall, you’ll find a shrine dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife).
To the immediate left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find an older Yosachae (monks’ dorms). And to the immediate right, you’ll find a newer Yosachae. To the left rear of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a newly constructed Sanshin-gak Hall. However, this shaman shrine hall functions as a Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in understated dancheong. Stepping inside, you’ll find three paintings dedicated to three shaman deities. The central image is dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). The other two paintings are dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint) and Chilseong (The Seven Stars). All three are modern, but they are all beautifully executed.
One more thing to keep an eye out for is the “Gakhwasa Turtle Stele,” which is located just to the southeast of the main temple grounds. The stele is two metres in height, and it rests upon a turtle base. It’s adorned with carvings of characters for “王” (king) and the “卍” (manja). The stele is believed to date back to the early Goryeo Dynasty. Traditionally, the stele is thought to be for the “Stele of Great Master Tongjin.” However, this seems unlikely, as a Seon Master of the Sagulsan Sect wouldn’t have a stele placed at a Hwaeom Sect temple like Gakhwasa Temple. The original body stone and capstone have been lost. The current ones were newly made. Also in this area, you’ll find ten ancient stupas.
How To Get There
From the Bonghwa Bus Terminal, you can take either Bus #52 or Bus #53 to get to Gakhwasa Temple. You’ll need to take this bus for 34 stops, or 50 minutes, and get off at the “Gongse-dong – Gakhwasa – 공세동 – 각화사 하차” bus stop. However, from where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to hike 2.4 km, or 60 minutes, to get to Gakhwasa Temple.
If you’d rather take a taxi, it’ll cost you around 36,000 won (one way) to get to Gakhwasa Temple from the Bonghwa Bus Terminal. Both aren’t the greatest of options, but it is what it is.
Overall Rating: 6/10
The main highlights to the temple start just outside the main temple grounds with the early Goryeo Dynasty “Gakhwasa Turtle Stele.” In addition to this provincial treasure, the large Beomjong-gak Pavilion is quite nice, as well, at the front of the main temple grounds. In addition to these two highlights, you can also enjoy the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals) that adorn the exterior of the Daeung-jeon Hall. Gakhwasa Temple is beautifully surrounded by rolling mountains, so the views are quite nice, as well.
