Gyeongsangbuk-do

Geojoam Hermitage – 거조암 (Yeongcheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do)

Inside the Yeongsan-jeon Hall at Geojoam Hermitage in Yeongcheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do.

Hermitage History

Geojoam Hermitage is located on the eastern slopes of the famed Mt. Palgongsan (1193 m) in Yeongcheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do. And Geojoam Hermitage is a branch hermitage of the neighbouring Eunhaesa Temple. Originally, the hermitage was known as Haeansa Temple. However, there is some dispute as to when the temple was first built.

In fact, there are three theories as to when the temple was first built. The first theory states that the temple was first completed under the watchful eye of Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.) in 693 A.D. However, since Wonhyo-daesa died in 686 A.D., it’s highly unlikely that he founded Geojoam Hermitage in 693 A.D. Another theory states that the temple was completed in 738 A.D. by the monk Woncham. And a third theory states that the temple was completed during the reign of King Gyeongdeok of Silla (742 – 765 A.D.) through a royal decree. Whatever theory may be correct, all the theories claim that Geojoam Hermitage was completed before that of Eunhaesa Temple in 809 A.D. Throughout the years, Geojoam Hermitage has been renovated numerous times because of fires.

It’s believed that the Buddhist revival movement, which would become known as Jeonghye Gyeolsa, has its origins at Geojoam Hermitage. The movement was launched by the monk Deukjae, who was also the abbot of Geojoam Hermitage in 1188.

Predating this, in 1182, the monk Jinul (1158-1210) attended a dharma gathering at Bojesa Temple in Kaesong (now in present day North Korea). Here, he learned different meditation techniques. Then, in the spring of 1188, the abbot of Geojoam Hermitage, Deukjae, conducted a Buddhist gathering of fellow monks. It was at this time that Jinul was staying at Bomunsa Temple on Mt. Hagasan in Yecheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do. This meeting was conducted to form Jeonghye Gyeolsa (Concentration and Wisdom Community). This community would later move to Songgwangsa Temple in Suncheon, Jeollanam-do in 1190. It was here that Jinul would continue to grow this new Buddhist community by inviting monks from various Buddhist Orders with whom he had practiced and studied throughout the years before establishing Jeonghye Gyeolsa and Songgwangsa Temple.

The goal of Jeonghye Gyeolsa would be to create a new Buddhist community of pure-minded practitioners deep in the mountains of the Korean peninsula. This new form of Korean Buddhism would ultimately lead to the founding of the Jogye-jong Order. The main focus of Jinul’s new movement was to teach a comprehensive approach to Buddhism that included meditation (Seon), doctrine (Gyo), chanting and lectures. And Jinul’s time at Geojoam Hermitage would help form this new movement.

The Yeongsan-jeon Hall at Geojoam Hermitage from 1932.

During the late Goryeo (918-1392), Geojoam Hermitage would gain a reputation as a great place to pray. This reputation was in large part due to a legend associated with the monk Wonham. In this legend, Wonham met an enlightened being named Nakseo at Geojoam Hermitage. From Nakseo, Wonham learned the teachings that revealed the dharma of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). It was through these teachings that a person could reach an eternal life. This made the hermitage famous for the site of important prayers.

During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), and according to the Buddhist Temples Past and Present, which was published in 1799, Geojoam Hermitage was already closed at this time. Later, the hermitage was renovated. The exact date of this renovation is unknown. However, because the hermitage was largely destroyed, the renovations of Geojoam Hermitage focused on the historic Yeongsan-jeon Hall, which still remained intact.

In 1912, the hermitage changed its name from Geojosa Temple to that of Geojoam Hermitage, when Geojoam Hermitage became a branch hermitage of the neighbouring Eunhaesa Temple. A restoration of the entire hermitage took place in July, 1970, and the roof tiles for the Yeongsan-jeon Hall were repaired, as well, in June, 1978.

Geojoam Hermitage is home to one National Treasure. The Yeongsan-jeon Hall at Geojoam Hermitage is National Treasure #14, and it was first built in 1375, which makes it one of Korea’s oldest wooden structures. In fact, it’s one year older than the famed Muryangsu-jeon Hall at Buseoksa Temple in Yeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do.

Admission to the hermitage is free.

Hermitage Layout

You first approach Geojoam Hermitage from the hermitage parking lot. You’ll pass under the two-story Jong-ru Pavilion. The first story of the unpainted structure acts as an entryway to the main hermitage courtyard. And inside the second floor of the Jong-ru Pavilion, you’ll find all four of the traditional Buddhist percussion instruments.

Up the stone stairway, you’ll finally enter into the main hermitage courtyard. Straight ahead of you stands the historic Yeongsan-jeon Hall. This National Treasure was first built in August, 1375, making it the third oldest wooden structure at a Korean temple behind the Daeung-jeon Hall at Sudeoksa Temple and the Geukrak-jeon Hall at Bongjeongsa Temple in Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do. The reason that we can know the precise age of the Yeongsan-jeon Hall is from calligraphic records found inside the hermitage structure. Also, and because of the Yeongsan-jeon Hall’s age, it allows us to look back into Korea’s past; and more specifically, a look back into the Goryeo Dynasty’s (918-1392) architectural past.

The unadorned exterior walls of the Yeongsan-jeon Hall are unique for its Jusimpo – 주심포 bracketing style. However, it’s the interior, more than the exterior, that makes the shrine hall so special. Housed inside the Yeongsan-jeon Hall, you’ll find 526 stone statues dedicated to the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha). It’s exceedingly rare to find a temple or hermitage in Korea that houses the Nahan inside the main hall. And if you look close enough, you’ll notice that each of the historic stone Nahan statues has a different facial expression and pose.

Joining the rows of Nahan statues inside the Yeongsan-jeon Hall is a main altar centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). Seokgamoni-bul is surrounded by a beautiful stone nimbus. Furthermore, the Yeongsan-jeon Hall has become famous for being able to grant prayers for miraculous virtues.

Out in front of the Yeongsan-jeon Hall is a three-story stone pagoda that dates back to the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. The pagoda is classified as Gyeongsangbuk-do Cultural Property Material #104.

To the far left of the Yeongsan-jeon Hall, you’ll find the recently built monks’ quarters. And between the monks’ quarters and the Yeongsan-jeon Hall is the hermitage’s Sanshin-gak Hall. This diminutive shrine was built during the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). And housed inside the Sanshin-gak Hall is an image of the Mountain Spirit with a blue robe who is holding a wooden staff.

How To Get There

There is no bus that directly goes to Geojoam Hermitage. Instead, you’ll have to follow the signs that lead you towards the hermitage from the neighbouring Eunhaesa Temple. You can catch a bus from Hayang that leaves about every hour to get to Eunhaesa Temple.

Overall Rating: 8/10

There isn’t all that much to see at Geojoam Hermitage. In fact, there are just a few structures at the hermitage which includes the Jong-ru Pavilion, the Sanshin-gak Hall, and the three-story stone pagoda. However, the size of Geojoam Hermitage means very little because it’s also home to one of Korea’s oldest wooden structures, which just so happens to be a National Treasure, as well. The Yeongsan-jeon Hall at Geojoam Hermitage dates back to 1375, and it gives visitors a helpful insight into what Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392) architecture must have looked like. Adding to its overall beauty are the 526 statues of stone Nahan statues inside the Yeongsan-jeon Hall, as well. You can spend hours simply marveling over the intricate beauty of this historic hermitage shrine hall so enjoy!

The Jong-ru Pavilion at the entry of the hermitage.
The stairs leading up to the hermitage courtyard.
The four traditional Buddhist percussion instruments on the second-story of the Jong-ru Pavilion.
The historic Yeongsan-jeon Hall that dates back to 1375.
The main altar inside the Yeongsan-jeon Hall.
The rows of beautiful stone Nahan inside the Yeongsan-jeon Hall.
A row of six Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha).
A closer look at one of the Nahan.
And yet another amazing look at a Nahan.
The three-story stone pagoda in the centre of the hermitage courtyard.
The monks’ dorms to the left of the Yeongsan-jeon Hall.
The diminutive Sanshin-gak Hall that’s located between the Yeongsan-jeon Hall and the dorms.
And the mural dedicated to the Mountain Spirit inside the Sanshin-gak Hall.

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