Geumjeongsa Temple – 금정사 (Gyeongju)
Temple History
Geumjeongsa Temple is located in western Gyeongju near the summit of Mt. Saryongsan (685.5 m). In fact, Geumjeongsa Temple might be the most westerly temple in the ancient city of Gyeongju. According to tradition, Geumjeongsa Temple was first founded by the famed monk Wonhyo (617-686 A.D.). After being damaged during the Imjin War (1592-98), the temple would eventually be rebuilt during the reign of King Yeongjo of Joseon (r. 1724-1776) in 1750. Geumjeongsa Temple is one of the 982 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.
Temple Layout
You first make your way up towards Geumjeongsa Temple up a steep, side-winding mountain road that stretches over a kilometre in distance. When you finally do arrive at the temple parking lot, which is more a field than it is a parking lot, you’ll notice the temple slightly elevated and to the south.
You’ll approach the temple from the east, and make your way up to the elevated temple grounds. The first shrine hall, and in and among the fermenting, clay jars, is the diminutive Yongwang-dang Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with two large dragon paintings. A blue dragon appears on the left exterior wall, while a yellow dragon appears on the right exterior wall. Stepping inside the shaman shrine hall, you’ll find a simplistic mural dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King) inside.
Past the monks dorms to your left, you’ll find that there’s a Jijang-jeon Hall to the right of the temple dorms. The Jijang-jeon Hall is adorned in fading dancheong colours, while the roof seems to have recently been reconstructed. Stepping inside the Jijang-jeon Hall, you’ll find an older statue dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) housed inside a glass enclosure. Jijang-bosal is wearing a golden shroud, and long black hair appears underneath this golden shroud and reaches down to its shoulders. To the right of the main altar is an older Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). There are also beautiful paintings of Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities) that adorn the interior walls of the Jijang-jeon Hall.
To the right of the Jijang-jeon Hall is the Daeung-jeon Hall. Out in front of the main hall is a newer three-story pagoda and an even newer seokdeung (stone lantern). As for the exterior walls of the Daeung-jeon Hall, they are adorned with simplistic Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals). Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a triad centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This central image is flanked on either side by images of Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power). This triad is backed by an all-black altar mural. What’s interesting about this mural is that the usual images of Bodhisattvas and Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha) are joined by a shrouded image of the Bodhidharma in the top left corner of the altar painting. To the left of the main altar, you’ll find a statue and painting dedicated to Jijang-bosal. To the right of the main altar are two additional paintings. The first is an older mural dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars), while the other is a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) that’s quite large in size.
The final shrine hall that visitors can explore at Geumjeongsa Temple is the diminutive Sanshin-gak Hall to the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in simple dancheong colours, while the interior is occupied by a solitary painting of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). Sanshin is joined in this painting by a fierce tiger by his side, as well as a pair of dongja (attendants). One of these dongja is holding a basket of peaches, which are a symbol of immortality.
How To Get There
The simplest way to get to Geumjeongsa Temple is by car. However, if you don’t own your own mode of transportation, you can take Bus #300 from the Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal to get to Geumjeongsa Temple; however, it won’t be easy. You’ll need to take this bus for 37 minutes, or 39 stops, and get off at the “Cheonchon – 천촌 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, and this is where the journey gets tough, you’ll need to walk straight up the mountain where Geumjeongsa Temple is located for the next 2.2 km, or 55 minutes.
Overall Rating: 6/10
Geumjeongsa Temple is deceptively larger than you think, especially when you consider its remote location. Geumjeongsa Temple has a particular charm, and the lone monk at the temple is quite welcoming. Of note is the Sanshin (Mountain Spirit) painting, the statue of Jijang-bosal inside the Jijang-jeon Hall, and the simplistic Yongwang (Dragon King) painting, too. Perhaps the biggest highlight to the temple, however, is it’s scenic and serene location.
