Hansansa Temple – 한산사 (Hadong, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Temple History
Hansansa Temple is located in northern Hadong, Gyeongsangnam-do to the south of Sinseon-bong Peak (615.3 m). According to the “Gazetteer of Agyang-myeon” (Agyang-myeonji), Hansansa Temple is presumed to have first been built during the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.). According to local oral tradition, the temple was first founded in 544 A.D. One story relates how a monk from Hwaeomsa Temple first built Hansansa Temple. It’s also stated that the temple was moved from its original location to its current location because of a bedbug infestation. However, there is no evidence to prove or disprove these assertions.
While there are no direct historical records about Hansansa Temple itself, there’s the “Gazetteer of Gyeongsang Province” (Gyeongsang-do Eupji), which states, “Agyang was formerly the name of a hyeon (county) but is now a district. It is located 30 ri west of the county seat. There are remains of Bonghwangdae, Gososeong Fortress, Hansansa Temple, and the lakes of Dongjeong, Gunsan, and Pyeongsa.”
Additionally, the “Gazetteer of Hadong-bu” (Hadong-bu Eupji) states, “Gososeong Fortress is located below Seonsundae in Agyang…Outside the fortress lies the ruins of Hansansa Temple, overgrown with bamboo. There is a naturally formed half-gate, which is commonly called the Banmun (Half-Gate).”
From these historical sources, in a round about way, we can confirm that Hansansa Temple existed. The temple was later abandoned until 1960, when the monk Songsang-hyeong rebuilt the temple. This resulted in the Daeung-jeon Hall, Yaksa-jeon Hall, and the Samseong-gak Hall being constructed. Additionally, the Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) housed inside the Daeung-jeon Hall originally came from Hwaeomsa Temple, and it dates back to the 19th century. The painting is Gyeongsangnam-do Cultural Heritage Material #286. Hansansa Temple is one of the 982 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.
Temple Layout
You first approach Hansansa Temple in a bend in the road up a mountain road. Hansansa Temple is located up an incline. Before making the climb, you’ll notice a modern biseok (stele) next to the brown temple sign. After making your way up the incline, you’ll notice all the temple buildings to your left. And to your right, you’ll find an amazing view of the valley below and the Seomjin-gang River off in the distance.
Looking back towards the mountain, you’ll find a collection of buildings. To the far left, you’ll see the monks’ dorms and administrative office. To the right, on the other hand, you’ll see the compact Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the main hall are adorned with the Palsang-do (Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals). Rather interestingly, a couple of these paintings continue inside the main hall, as well. And on either side of the signboard for the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll see a pair of gnarly dragons. Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a triad of statues on the main altar. This main altar triad is centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) and joined on either side by statues dedicated to Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power) and Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom). To the right of this main altar triad is a shrine dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). The green-haired statue dedicated to the Bodhisattva of the Afterlife is backed by a beautiful modern painting that includes the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld). Hanging on the far left wall, you’ll find the historic Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) that dates back to the 19th century. Dongjin-bosal (The Bodhisattva that Protects the Buddha’s Teachings) is quite prominently displayed in this painting. While not large in size, the altar painting more than makes up for it with its stunning style.
To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a golden statue dedicated to Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha). And to the right of this golden statue, you’ll find a collection of large stone cairns.
To the rear of the Daeung-jeon Hall, there’s a set of stairs that leads to the upper courtyard. Along the way, you’ll pass by the temple well. Joining the well is a stone statue dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King). Continuing up the stone stairway, you’ll first come to the Nahan-jeon Hall. However, this shrine hall is locked and off-limits to the general public. To the right of this, and in a clearing, is a diminutive metal shrine that houses a colourful statue dedicated to another Yongwang statue.
To the left of the locked Nahan-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Samseong-gak Hall. The views from the shaman shrine hall are stunning. The exterior walls are adorned in understated dancheong colours. Stepping inside, you’ll find three shaman deities packed into the Samseong-gak Hall. The central image is dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). Of note is the painting of Chilseong behind the statue of Jeseok-bul (Indra). There are a pair of standing figures in this painting. One is holding a golden orb, while the other is holding a red orb. These are Wolgwang-bosal (The Moonlight Bodhisattva) and Ilgwang-bosal (The Sunlight Bodhisattva). To the right of these central images, you’ll find a statue and painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), While to the left, you’ll find a statue and painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit).
How To Get There
From the Hadong Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #12-10 to get to Hansansa Temple. You’ll need to take this bus for 30 stops, or 30 minutes, and get off at the “Choicham-pandaek – 최참판 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to make the hike up the side of a mountain. The road is paved, but it’s still a 1.5 km, or 35 minute, hike up the side of a mountain.
If this hike isn’t for you, you can simply take a taxi from the Hadong Bus Terminal. The taxi ride should take around 20 minutes, or 16 km, and it’ll cost you around 28,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 5.5/10
The views from Hansansa Temple are the most spectacular part of the temple. And with Mt. Jirisan being so close, it’s no wonder. In addition to its natural beauty, you can also enjoy the historic Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) from the 19th century, as well as the shaman iconography inside the Samseong-gak Hall.
