Heukseoksa Temple – 흑석사 (Yeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do)
Temple History
Heukseoksa Temple is located in eastern Yeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do to the northwest of Mt. Bakbongsan (389.2 m). As for the name of the temple, Heukseoksa Temple, it means “Black Rock Temple” in English. There are two traditional possibilities for the name of the temple. The first possibility comes from the general dark color of rocks near the temple. The second possibility is explained through a village named Heukseok some 600 metres southeast of the temple. And it’s in this village that there’s a massive black rock, which is thought to have inspired the name of Heukseoksa Temple.
It’s believed that Heukseoksa Temple was first founded by Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.). Very little is known about the temple after its founding until the early Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). The temple would mostly be destroyed during the Imjin War (1592-1598) in 1592; after which, the temple quickly fell into disrepair. According to the Beomugo (“Examination of Buddhist Buildings”), which was compiled in 1799, Heukseoksa Temple was already in ruins at this time. This suggests that the temple became abandoned by the late 18th century.
After Korea’s liberation after World War 2 on August 15, 1945, the monk Kim Sang-ho rebuilt Heukseoksa Temple using timber that was transported from neighbouring Choamsa Temple. In 1950, and during the Korean War (1950-1953), the “Wooden Seated Amitabha Buddha and Excavated Relics of Heukseoksa Temple, Yeongju” was moved to Heukseoksa Temple from Beopcheonsa Temple for safekeeping. However, it’s unclear which Beopcheonsa Temple this was, as Beopcheonsa Temple is a fairly common name for a temple.
In 1999, the Geukrak-jeon Hall was constructed. This was followed by the construction of the monks’ dorms in 2010 and the Iljumun Gate in 2012. After the temple was rebuilt after World War 2, the temple belonged to the Taego-jong Buddhist Order. However, with the death of the abbot of Kim Sang-ho, Heukseoksa Temple became part of the Jogye-jong Buddhist Order.
In total, Heukseoksa Temple is home to one National Treasure, one Korean Treasure, and one Gyeongsangbuk-do Cultural Heritage Material. The National Treasure is the “Wooden Seated Amitabha Buddha and Excavated Relics of Heukseoksa Temple, Yeongju.” As for the Korean Treasure, it’s the “Stone Seated Buddha of Heukseoksa Temple, Yeongju.” And the Gyeongsangbuk-do Cultural Heritage Material is the “Heukseoksa Rock-Carved Triad Buddha Statue.” Lastly, Heukseoksa Temple is one of the 982 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.
Temple Layout
From the temple parking lot, you’ll first pass by the beautiful Iljumun Gate. The entry gate is adorned with intricate dancheong including the pair of dragons on its two pillars and Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities) and lotus flowers across some of its beams.
Continuing up the trail, and past a pond to your right, you’ll eventually come to the main temple grounds. You’ll need to mount a set of stone stairs to enter the main temple courtyard. On either side of the base of the stairs, there are a pair of buildings. One is the administrative office, while the other appears to be for visitors.
Back at the top of the stairs, you’ll find the Daeung-jeon Hall straight ahead of you. The exterior walls are adorned in a beautiful collection of murals that include the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals) and one dedicated to Podae-hwasang (The Hempen Bag). On the backside of the exterior walls, you’ll find large murals dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) in the centre and joined on either side by equally large murals dedicated to Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power) to the left and Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) to the right. The interior of the large Daeung-jeon Hall is empty. Instead, the triad of statues are the treasures to the rear of the main hall housed inside a open pavilion.
To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Jong-ru Pavilion. And to the left of the main hall, you’ll find the Geukrak-jeon Hall. The exterior to the Geukrak-jeon Hall is adorned in simple dancheong colours. Stepping inside this shrine hall, you’ll find the temple’s National Treasure. Housed inside a glass enclosure in the centre of the main altar, you’ll find the “Wooden Seated Amitabha Buddha and Excavated Relics of Heukseoksa Temple, Yeongju.”
According to votive material found inside the statue, the “Wooden Seated Amitabha Buddha and Excavated Relics of Heukseoksa Temple, Yeongju” was made in 1458 as part of a triad with Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) as the principal Buddha. The statue was created at Beopcheonsa Temple on Mt. Jeongamsan. Fundraising for the statue started in February 1457, and it was completed in October 1458. However, because there appears to be a piece of paper attached to the original, there might have been a mistake with the original date for the fundraising of the statue. Instead it’s more likely that fundraising began in February 1458 and not 1457.
There were a variety of people that donated to the making of the “Wooden Seated Amitabha Buddha and Excavated Relics of Heukseoksa Temple, Yeongju” according to votive records. They included royal family members such as Uibin Gwon (a concubine of King Taejong of Joseon), Myeongbin Kim, Prince Hyoryeong, Gwangdeokdaebu Yeonchangwi (son-in-law of King Sejong), and Lady Shin Yuin. Of these, it appears as though Uibin Gwon was the impetus behind the statue’s initial creation. In fact, she may have originally intended to fund it alone, but she later requested the assistance from other royal family members.
What’s interesting about Uibin Gwon is that she became a Buddhist nun after King Taejong of Joseon’s death in 1422. However, instead of joining a temple, she stayed in the palace and performed morning and evening prayers before the “Wooden Seated Amitabha Buddha and Excavated Relics of Heukseoksa Temple, Yeongju.” What’s even more interesting is that the central image of Amita-bul was joined in this triad by Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). Normally, this triad would included Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul); however, Jijang-bosal was included instead. The reason for this is that these Bodhisattvas and Buddha are thought to be powerful guides for the souls of the dead in Buddhism.
Including the death of King Taejong of Joseon, Uibin Gwon also grieved at the death of Geumseong Daegun, who died in 1456. While he had been born to Queen Soheon (1395-1446), Uibin Gwon had cared for the prince like a son. However, Geumseong Daegun was involved in a plot to restore King Danjong of Joseon (r. 1452-1455) to the throne. In the process, both Geumseong Daegun and King Danjong of Joseon would die. So while Uibin Gwon couldn’t openly grieve the death of the prince, because of the political sensitivity of the situation, she could through the making of the “Wooden Seated Amitabha Buddha and Excavated Relics of Heukseoksa Temple, Yeongju.”
In addition to this outward sign of grief, the votive records also express the hopes for the good health and well-being of the king and queen, the crown prince’s safely, to the end of wars, national peace, the spreading of Buddhism, and the flourishing of the Buddha’s teachings.
The two attendant Bodhisattvas in the triad – Gwanseeum-bosal and Jijang-bosal – were stolen, leaving only the seated central image of Amita-bul. In 1992, the “Wooden Seated Amitabha Buddha and Excavated Relics of Heukseoksa Temple, Yeongju” was stolen from the Geukrak-jeon Hall at Heukseoksa Temple. Fortunately, it was recovered nearby. At that time, the thieves opened the statue and scattered the relics hidden inside. Before this incident, little was known about the statue, until the relics were revealed and evaluated. In 1993, the “Wooden Seated Amitabha Buddha and Excavated Relics of Heukseoksa Temple, Yeongju” was designated as a National Treasure.
What’s interesting about the relics found inside the statue of Amita-bul is that they have a story of their own, as well. Because the temple was so small before its rebuild, it had no proper place to store these votive relics. In 1996, the relics were kept for a year in the weapons locker of a nearby police station. In 1999, thieves stole the statue, but the police and monks pursued the thieves and recovered the relics after a struggle. Due to repeated thievery, the abbot of the temple entrusted the relics with the head of the laity. However, it was later discovered that they had sold the relics illegally to art dealers. In the end, all were arrested. Finally, the “Wooden Seated Amitabha Buddha and Excavated Relics of Heukseoksa Temple, Yeongju” came to be enclosed inside a fireproof glass case inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall, while the relics are now preserved at the Daegu National Museum.
Rather interestingly, the “Wooden Seated Amitabha Buddha and Excavated Relics of Heukseoksa Temple, Yeongju” is now joined inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall at Heukseoksa Temple by statues of Gwanseeum-bosal and Daesaeji-bosal. It seems that the former image of Jijang-bosal has been replaced by a modern image of Daesaeji-bosal, which is more common for the modern triad configuration. Also housed inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall is a large, modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) on the right wall.
To the rear of the Daeung-jeon Hall, and up a set of side-winding stone stairs, you’ll find a pair of treasures. The larger image is the “Heukseoksa Rock-Carved Triad Buddha Statue,” which is a Gyeongsangbuk-do Cultural Heritage Material. This is a rock-carved triad consisting of a central Buddha image and joined by two attendant Bodhisattvas. It’s nearly impossible to identify any of these images. The central Buddha has a shaved head and elongated ears that extend down to its shoulders. Additionally, it has three folds on its neck known as Samdo in Korean, as well as a monk’s robe draped over both of its shoulders. As for the attending Bodhisattvas, they wear crowns backed by nimbuses. Rather interestingly, the face of the right Bodhisattva has a broader face, while the left Bodhisattva has a far more slender face. It’s believed that the “Heukseoksa Rock-Carved Triad Buddha Statue” dates back to late Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.) or early Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392).
Fronting this large relief is “Stone Seated Buddha of Heukseoksa Temple, Yeongju.” This seated image of what appears to be Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha) and was excavated near Heukseoksa Temple. The body is perfectly proportioned and it wears a not so subtle smile. It’s believed that this statue dates back to the 9th century. For being so old, it’s in fantastic condition.
To the right of the pavilion that houses both treasures, you’ll find a statue dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). And to the left of the pavilion, you’ll find a statue dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). To the rear of this statue, you’ll find a relief of the Mountain Spirit. This shaman deity wears a large, winged helmet, and it’s joined by a tiger.
How To Get There
If you’re travelling in a group, taking a taxi from the Yeongju Intercity Bus Terminal is probably the easiest way to get to the temple. It’ll take 15 minutes, or 7.8 km, and it’ll cost you 11,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 7.5/10
While there aren’t too many shrine halls to explore at Heukseoksa Temple, it more than makes up for it with the treasures it houses like the National Treasure, the “Wooden Seated Amitabha Buddha and Excavated Relics of Heukseoksa Temple, Yeongju,” as well as the Korean Treasure, the “Stone Seated Buddha of Heukseoksa Temple, Yeongju.” It’s a bit surprising that the “Heukseoksa Rock-Carved Triad Buddha Statue” is just a provincial treasure, but it in no way takes away from its odd beauty. In addition to these treasures, the stately Iljumun Gate is quite stunning, and the temple grounds are filled with beautiful pink crepe myrtles.
