Huibangsa Temple – 희방사 (Yeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do)

Temple History

Huibangsa Temple is located to the southwest of Mt. Sobaeksan (1,439.6 m) in Sobaeksan National Park in Yeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do. There are two conflicting dates as to when Huibangsa Temple was first founded. One story has the temple being first founded in 643 A.D. by the monk Duun. However, since the monk Duun was active in the 8th century, and there are no surviving artifacts from the 7th century, it’s more likely that Huibangsa Temple was first built at a later date. According to the Hanguk Sachal Jeonseo, it states that Huibangsa Temple was first established in 861 A.D. Generally, scholars believe that the temple was established during the late Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.), so 861 A.D. is the more likely founding date for Huibangsa Temple.

In 863 A.D., the abbot, Yu Seok, did major renovations on the temple. At this time, the temple was known as Jijilbangsa Temple. Afterwards, no known records about the temple exist until the monk I-ran rebuilt the temple in 1690, when the name of the temple changed to Huibangsa Temple. In 1810, further reconstruction was conducted on the temple with the support of the lay-believers. This was subsequently followed by repairs in 1815 by the monk Gyeongui. In 1850, a fire broke out at Huibangsa Temple destroying sixteen shrine halls and the monks’ quarters. This was followed by the rebuilding of the temple in 1852 including the monks’ quarters and Sanshin-gak Hall.

During the reign of King Gojong of Korea, the monk Haeun oversaw repairs on the temple either in 1899 or 1905. And in 1907, the Yeongsan-jeon Hall was relocated by Abbot Domyeong. During the Korean War (1950-1953), on January 13, 1951, retreating forces destroyed the temple’s buildings along with over 200 woodblocks. A portrait of Duun was also lost. Only the main statue dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul, which was hidden inside a natural cave where Duun once lived, was preserved. In 1957, after the temple was rebuilt, the statue of Seokgamoni-bul was enshrined inside the newly built Daeung-jeon Hall (now the Jijang-jeon Hall).

From 1957 to 1980, Abbot Damhwa continued to rebuild and restore the temple. In 1986, under the new abbot, Abbot Seolsong, and through the support of the Jogye-jong Order, the Daeungbo-jeon Hall, the Samseong-gak Hall, the Beomjong-gak Pavilion, the monks’ dorms, and the Iljumun Gate were reconstructed. In 1998, a new two-story building was constructed that acts as the monks’ dorms and kitchen.

Huibangsa Temple is home to just one provincial treasure, which is the “Huibangsa Temple Bronze Bell.” The bronze bell is a Gyeongsangbuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage.

Temple Legend

There’s a rather interesting legend connected to the temple and the monk Duun. While practicing Buddhism, Duun moved from Simwonam Hermitage on Mt. Taebaeksan (1,566.7 m) to a natural cave at the future Huibangsa Temple site. One winter night, a tiger entered the cave and raised its front paw. It shook its head, as if pleading for help from the monk. Looking closely at the tiger, Duun saw a woman’s hairpin lodged in its neck. Duun pulled the hairpin from the tiger’s neck.

Some time later, Duun heard a noise, so he opened the entrance to his cave. Upon opening the entrance, Duun found a beautiful young woman unconscious next to the tiger. After carefully nursing the young woman back to health, he asked her about herself. She revealed that she was the only daughter of Yu Seok, who was the head of the village (hojang) of Gyerim. On her wedding night, just as she was about to enter the bridal chamber, a sudden flash of fire carried the woman’s body through the air. From this explosion, she lost consciousness.

Duun built a separate shelter with a brushwood fence in the cave for the young woman. He would care for her through the winter, and then she returned safely to her home with her family. As a sign of gratitude, her father, Yu Seok, built a temple in front of the cave for Duun. Not only that, but he provided farmland for the temple’s support, as well. In addition to all this, the Sucheol Bridge was constructed, as well. Built from iron, it was made so as not to hinder Duun’s practice. All of this would eventually be Huibangsa Temple.

Temple Layout

Making your way up a side-winding mountain road, which can be treacherous in parts, you’ll eventually come to the temple parking lot. From the temple parking lot, you’ll cross over a bridge that spans a beautiful stream. Along the way, you’ll pass by a larger statue dedicated to Podae-hwasang (The Hempen Bag), as well as a rather peculiar statue of Yongwang (The Dragon King) housed inside a cave.

Having crossed over the bridge, you’ll stand parallel with the two-story building to your right that acts as a pavilion on the top story and one of three monks’ dorms on the bottom. To your left, you’ll find the second of three monks’ dorms at Huibangsa Temple.

Moving forward, you’ll now enter into the main temple courtyard at Huibangsa Temple. In the centre is a large tree surrounded by statues of roughly cut stone Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha). To your left is the newly built Daeungbo-jeon Hall to your left. The exterior walls are adorned in simple Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals). Of note is the final painting in the set, “Death,” which shows the radiate feet of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) inside his casket. Stepping inside the main hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a triad centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). Standing on either side of this central image are a pair of Bodhisattvas. These are Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power). Also hanging inside the Daeungbo-jeon Hall is a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).

Out in front of the Daeungbo-jeon Hall, and looking down on the stream that you once crossed over, you’ll find a slender five-story pagoda. It’s next to this pagoda that you’ll find another bridge. This bridge connects the main hall that houses the Daeungbo-jeon Hall with the courtyard that houses the Jijang-jeon Hall. Out in front of the Jijang-jeon Hall is a slender seven-story pagoda. The base of the pagoda is adorned with four images of Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors). And the upper portion of the pagoda is adorned with images of various Buddhas. Behind the slender seven-story pagoda are a pair of seokdeung (stone lanterns). And behind these is the Jijang-jeon Hall, which was once the Daeung-jeon Hall at Huibangsa Temple. To the right of the Jijang-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Jong-gak Pavilion. Housed inside this pavilion is a large, bronze bell adorned with Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities).

The Jijang-jeon Hall’s exterior walls are adorned with a pair of Bicheon, as well as a prayer written on the backside of the shrine hall. And up in the eaves, you’ll find multiple paintings dedicated to rabbits, as well as a green soju bottle. Not sure why that’s there.

Stepping inside the Jijang-jeon Hall, you’ll quickly find that while this shrine hall is a Jijang-jeon Hall, it also functions in several other ways, as well. On the main altar, you’ll find stunning, golden image dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). In its left hand, it holds a wish-fulfilling pearl. And in its right hand, it holds a long, golden staff. To the left of the main altar, you’ll find a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) joined by a mural dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). Also in this area, you’ll find a collection of stone statues dedicated to the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha). To the right of the main altar, you’ll find a painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). All three paintings – the Shinjung Taenghwa, Chilseong, and Dokseong murals – appear to have been created by the same artist. And on the far right wall, you’ll find a painting dedicated to the founding monk, Duun.

Backtracking, and to the left of the Daeungbo-jeon Hall up a flight of stone stairs, you’ll find the temple’s Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls to this shaman shrine hall are adorned in simple dancheong colours. Stepping inside the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find, rather strangely, only a pair of paintings. The painting to the right is an older painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). And to the left, you’ll find a wonderful modern painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). The central image of the Mountain Spirit is joined by a white tiger with Huibangsa Temple in the background. Also in the background is what looks, possibly, to be a female Sanshin dressed all in white on a bed of green leaves.

How To Get There

You can take Bus #25 from the Yeongju Intercity Bus Terminal to get to Huibangsa Temple. You’ll need to take this bus for 25 stops and get off at the “Huibang – 희방 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to follow the signs as you walk up towards Huibangsa Temple. The hike, and this is where it gets tough, will take you around 60 minutes, or 2.6 km, mostly up the side of a mountain.

You can take the bus and hike, or you can simply take a taxi and hope they’ll bring you up to Huibangsa Temple. If the taxi is willing to take you the entire way, it’ll take around 20 minutes, or 21 km, and it’ll cost you around 28,000 won (one way).

Overall Rating: 7.5/10

Huibangsa Temple is located in the beautiful Sobaeksan National Park. And just south of the temple grounds is the beautiful Huibang-pokpo Falls. In addition to all of this natural beauty, you can also enjoy the Buddhist artwork housed inside the Jijang-jeon Hall, the unique painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) housed inside the Samseong-gak Hall, as well as the pair of slender statues located on the temple grounds. Together, it all makes for one beautiful temple.