Jinwolsa Temple – 진월사 (Yeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do)
Temple History
Jinwolsa Temple is located to the northeast of Mt. Hakkasan (882 m) in southern Yeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do. Purportedly, Jinwolsa Temple was first founded by the famed monk Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.) during the reign of King Munmu of Silla (r. 661-681 A.D.). According to a temple legend, Uisang-daesa built Jinwolsa Temple prior to the construction of Buseoksa Temple in 676 A.D. After hearing in a dream that the construction of a temple at the foot of Mt. Hakkasan, whose topography was said to resemble a crane, would remove any and all obstacles towards the founding of Buseoksa Temple.
With all that being said, there are no artifacts that date back to this time period. In fact, there aren’t any records about Jinwolsa Temple until the early Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). Rather interestingly, and during the reign of King Seonjo of Joseon (r. 1567-1608), the temple was referred to as Mutaesa Temple. It was some time later that the temple came to be known as Jinwolsa Temple.
In 1720, the main hall was rebuilt and named the Muryangbo-jeon Hall. The principal deity inside the main hall was also changed from Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) to that of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). In 1758, the Muryangbo-jeon Hall was renovated, and the Simwon-ru Pavilion was built. In 1797, the Simwon-ru Pavilion was repaired; and in 1807, the Muryangbo-jeon Hall was also repaired. In 1891, the Sanshin-gak Hall was repaired. In 1919, the Muryangbo-jeon Hall was repaired; and in 1922, the Yosachae (monks’ dorms) were repaired, as well. General repairs were conducted on the temple in 1971, and the temple’s bronze bell was recast. In 1986, the Samseong-gak Hall was newly built. And in 2013, the Muryangbo-jeon Hall was rebuilt, as well.
While there are no historical artifacts housed at the temple, it’s considered one of the 982 traditional Buddhist temples. It’s one of the three most revered meditation temples in Gyeongsangbuk-do.
Temple Layout
From the temple parking lot, you’ll first be welcomed to Jinwolsa Temple by the Simwon-ru Pavilion. This older two-story structure acts as an entry gate to the main temple grounds on the first floor. As for the second floor, it’s used for larger Dharma talks and relaxation. The entrance plaque at the front of the pavilion reads “Hakkasan Jinwolsa” (鶴駕山陳月寺), which was written by Kim Jong-ho in 1959.
After entering the main temple grounds, you’ll notice the Muryangbo-jeon Hall directly in front of you. This newly built main hall is adorned with intricate dancheong. Also, the exterior walls are adorned in a stunning set of Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals). Stepping inside the Muryangbo-jeon Hall, you’ll find the main altar being occupied by the lone image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). This statue is surrounded by a fiery mandorla. To the immediate right of the main altar, you’ll find a black-accented mural dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha). And on the far right wall, you’ll find a uniquely designed Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). To the left of the main altar, on the other hand, you’ll find a mural dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife).
To the immediate left and right of the Muryangbo-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Shimgeom-dang Hall and the Hyangno-jeon Hall. To the left rear of the Muryangbo-jeon Hall is the temple’s Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with murals that include a fierce tiger and white cranes. Stepping inside, you’ll find a set of shaman paintings created by the same artist. In the centre hangs a mural dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). To the right hangs a mural dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). The background of this painting is wonderful and elaborate with a parrot-like bird. This bird is probably a bird of paradise. And to the left of the mural dedicated to Chilseong hangs a painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). With a bushy brow, the tiger looks fiercely to the side with yet another of these birds of paradise hanging on a branch overtop of the head a dongja (attendant) who’s holding a large piece of ginseng in its hands.
How To Get There
There’s really no easy way to get to Jinwolsa Temple from the Yeongju Intercity Bus Terminal. With this in mind, the easiest thing to do is grab a taxi; however, it won’t be cheap. The taxi ride will take around 25 minutes, or 19 km, and it’ll cost you around 25,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 6/10
Jinwolsa Temple is scenically located up in the mountains with a beautiful view below of a stream. In addition to its natural beauty, Jinwolsa Temple is home to a wonderfully original collection of shaman murals housed inside the Samseong-gak Hall. The Simwon-ru Pavilion is both stately and stunning. Also, the fiery image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) inside the Muryangbo-jeon Hall is something to keep an eye out for, as well. Lastly, the abbot of Jinwolsa Temple seems to be a kind man. As I was leaving, he handed me a bag of six giant chamoe – 참외 (Oriental melons) from his temple garden. It was a very kind gesture by the abbot.
