Yeonggaksa Temple – 영각사 (Hamyang, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Temple History
Yeonggaksa Temple is located in northern Hamyang, Gyeongsangnam-do in the southern foothills of Mt. Namdeokyusan (1,507.4 m). The temple was first founded in 877 A.D. by the monk Simgwang-seonsa. Simgwang-seonsa was a disciple of Muyeom-guksa (801-888 A.D.), who was the founder of the Seongjusan Sect, which was part of the “Nine Mountain Schools,” or “Gusan” in Korean.
During the early part of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), Yeonggaksa Temple fell into disrepair, but it was later rebuilt in 1449 by the monk Wongyeong-seonsa. After this, the temple underwent numerous restorations. Then in 1834, a fire completely destroyed the temple grounds except for the Hwaeom-jeon Hall. Over fifty years later, the temple was rebuilt, once more, in 1886.
During the Korean War (1950-53), all the building at Yeonggaksa Temple were destroyed except for the Sanjin-gak Hall and a storage structure. Along with this destruction, the valuable Hwaeom Tripitaka, consisting of 81 volumes and 3,284 copies of the “Beomgyeong Sutra – 법망경” were destroyed, as well. In 1959, and after the Korean War, the monk Haeun-seonsa rebuilt the Hwaeom-jeon Hall. And in 1966, he rebuilt the Geukrak-jeon Hall. Before the Korean War, there were 19 buildings at Yeonggaksa Temple. This included the Daeung-jeon Hall and the Iljumun Gate, as well 13 hermitages. This made Yeonggaksa Temple one of the larger temples in Korea. However, since the Korean War, a steady effort to rebuild the temple to its former glory has been an ongoing process.
Yeonggaksa Temple is home to at least two provincial treasures. They are the Gugwang-ru Pavilion and the Sanshin Taenghwa.
Temple Layout
From the temple parking lot, you’ll need to go up and around to the right to come to the Cheonwangmun Gate. This rather dilapidated entry gate’s exterior walls are adorned in simple dancheong colours. Stepping inside, you’ll find four paintings dedicated to the Four Heavenly Kings. All four are stunning in composition.
Beyond the Cheonwangmun Gate, you’ll find the uniquely designed Gugwang-ru Pavilion. Originally, the Gugwang-ru Pavilion was designed as a storage building. The structure has a plain natural wood exterior with elaborate window dressings on the second story of the two-story structure. Book-ending the row of windows are two circular windows with peony designs inside them. Originally, the Gugwang-ru Pavilion was meant to store grains and other items. However, after the Korean War, all of the halls at Yeonggaksa Temple were destroyed and the temple lands were sold off, as well. This caused the temple to drastically decline. As a result, the Gugwang-ru Pavilion changed from being that of a storage structure to that of a heated room on the first floor and a lecture hall on the second. Rather strangely, when the Gugwang-ru Pavilion was renovated around this time, Chinese-style wooden windows were installed on the structure, which changed the traditional architecture of the building.
Behind the Gugwang-ru Pavilion, you’ll find the large Geukrak-jeon Hall. The shrine hall appears as though it might have once also been the residence at the temple. However, with the newly constructed monks’ dorms to the left of the Geukrak-jeon Hall, this shrine hall now only acts as the Geukrak-jeon Hall. Housed inside is a statue of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) on the main altar.
Behind the Geukrak-jeon Hall, and across an open courtyard, you’ll find the elevated Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall. The ornate exterior is adorned in paintings from the Flower Garland Sutra, or “Hwaeom-gyeong” in Korean. And on either side of the signboard for the main hall, you’ll find a pair of fierce dragons. Also, the front floral latticework is both elaborate and vibrant in colour. Stepping inside the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar centred by Birojana-bul (The Buddha of Cosmic Energy). Also taking up residence inside the main hall is a Banya Yongseon-do (Dragon Ship of Wisdom Mural), as well as a gold-accented Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the left rear of the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls to the shaman shrine hall are adorned in simple dancheong colours. Stepping inside the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find three murals inside. But instead of consisting of a triad that includes Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), this Samseong-gak Hall houses a mural dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King), who is joined by a central mural dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars) and a far left mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). All three paintings appear to have been created by the same artist, and they are all original in design.
To the front left of the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find the rebuilt Hwaeom-jeon Hall. However, this shrine hall is off-limits to the general public. Also off-limits to the general public is the historic Sanshin Taenghwa (Mountain Spirit Altar Painting). It’s unclear where this painting is housed at the temple. As for the painting, it was created on a coarse-weave silk canvas. Sanshin appears in the painting atop a tiger. In addition to these two images, you can also find a guardian figure that stands strongly with a sword in the lower left of the painting. And on either side of Sanshin, you’ll find two dongja (attendants).
As for Sanshin, he takes up three-quarters of the painting. He faces right, and he has a long, flowing white beard and hair. He wears a topknot crown and sits with both legs resting on the tiger’s back with his chest exposed. Sanshin holds a wooden staff in his right hand, and it’s raised. The top of the staff has a bundle of sutra scrolls tied to its tip. Meanwhile, his left hand is lower than the right, and it holds a leaf fan.
As for the tiger in the painting, who supports Sanshin, it’s depicted in a folk-style of painting. It has large, round eyes, slightly bared teeth, leopard-like spots, and a tail that’s curled in the shape of an “S.” Also of note are the multi-coloured clouds in the painting and the partially visible pine tree in the upper right corner of the painting.
An inscription in the red-bordered panel at the bottom states that the painting was created and enshrined in March 1831 by the painter Cheonyeo. The inscription on the back further clarifies that the painting was created during the construction of the rear Buddha painting at Seojinam Hermitage and was later enshrined in the Sanshin-gak Hall at Yeonggaksa Temple.
As for Cheonyeo, he was an active Buddhist painter in the early to mid-19th century. He is particularly known for the artwork he created at Seonamsa Temple in Suncheon, Jeollanam-do. His 1847 Sanshin painting at Seonamsa temple is similar to the one at Yeonggaksa Temple.
At the time of the painting’s creation, it sat slightly askew inside its frame. And over time, the frame warped, which caused the painting to warp, as well. Due to its age and neglect, parts of the painting have deteriorated like the painting of the tiger and the clouds flaking. Also, the upper portion of the painting shows signs of soot stains and fading colours. However, with all that being said, if you get the opportunity to see this Sanshin Taenghwa (which I’m not sure you can), you should definitely take it.
How To Get There
You can take either Bus #471 or Bus #472 from the Hamyang Intercity Bus Terminal to get to Yeonggaksa Temple. You’ll need to take this bus for 48 stops, or 72 minutes, and get off at the “Yeonggaksa – 영각사하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to head north for about 170 metres, until you arrive at Yeonggaksa Temple.
Overall Rating: 6/10
Yeonggaksa Temple must have once been an amazing temple because even in its current condition, it’s still a pretty nice place from the Gugwang-ru Pavilion to the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall. Unfortunately, a bit of the temple is off-limits to the general public like the aforementioned two-story Gugwang-ru Pavilion and the Hwaeom-jeon Hall. However, the interior and exterior of the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall are beautiful as are the paintings of the shaman deities housed inside the Samseong-gak Hall. And not too far off is Deokyusan National Park.
