Baekryeonam Hermitage – 백련암 (Uiryeong, Gyeongsangnam-do)

Hermitage History

Baekryeonam Hermitage is located on the eastern slopes of Mt. Jigulsan (896.9 m) in northwestern Uiryeong, Gyeongsangnam-do. Baekryeonam Hermitage, which means “White Lotus Hermitage” in English, is said to have first been founded in 1317. During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), it’s said that Gwak Jae-u (1552–1617), who was known as the “Red Robe General” and a military general in charge of part of the Righteous Army during the Imjin War (1592-98), studied at Baekryeonam Hermitage at the age of 16. Very little is known about the hermitage until 1893, when the monk Juseon rebuilt the hermitage. In more recent years, the hermitage has undergone numerous renovations including the reconstruction of the Daeung-jeon Hall. Baekryeonam Hermitage is one of 982 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.

Baekryeonam Hermitage is home to “Wooden Seated Bodhisattva and Associated Relics, Baekryeonam Uiryeong,” which is Gyeongsangnam-do Tangible Cultural Heritage #416.

Hermitage Layout

You first make your way up a long, winding road, until you eventually arrive at the hermitage parking lot. From the hermitage parking lot, and as you look east, you’ll get a beautiful view of the valley below. Before heading up the embankment, you’ll pass by a glass enclosure with pooling water out in front of it. This is the Yongwang-gak Hall. In the centre of the enclosure, you’ll find a beautiful painting dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King). This painting, and more on this later, was created by the abbot of the hermitage.

Now up the embankment, and standing out in front of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll notice that the main hall’s exterior walls are adorned in fading Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the main altar occupied by the “Wooden Seated Bodhisattva and Associated Relics, Baekryeonam Uiryeong.” What’s peculiar about this seated statue is its identity. While it wears a partially assembled crown, which is reminiscent of an image of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion), it also makes a mudra (ritualized hand gesture) that’s reminiscent of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). Adding to the mystery is that the abbot of the temple kept referring to the wooden statue as Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). The statue’s hair is parted in the middle and flows behind its ears and extends down both of its shoulders in three strands. The face is square in shape with a broad forehead, a prominent nose, and meditative eyes. The lips are slightly upturned in a subtle smile. Perhaps lending a bit more credence to this statue being a Buddha is that the image wears a monastic robe; and apart from its crown, it lacks all ornamental jewelry that’s common to Bodhisattvas in Korea. The style of the “Wooden Seated Bodhisattva and Associated Relics, Baekryeonam Uiryeong” is believed to date back to the late-Joseon Dynasty. The statue was created by eight sculptor monks that included Chong-ok and Gakcho, as well as three Buddhist artisans including Yanggong. Both Chong-ok and Gakcho were active from the late 17th to early 18th century. They also helped create the 1703 statues inside the Gakhwang-jeon Hall at Hwaeomsa Temple. According to the abbot of Baekryeonam Hermitage, the “Wooden Seated Bodhisattva and Associated Relics, Baekryeonam Uiryeong” was first housed in a temple in Gyeongsan, Gyeongsangbuk-do and have more recently been moved to the hermitage.

To the left of the main altar, you’ll find a shrine dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). This black haired statue of Jijang-bosal is holding a golden staff in his right hand and backed by a modern painting of himself. To the right of the main altar, on the other hand, you’ll find a wonderful, modern painting (taenghwa) dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). The image of Sudhana appears in the bottom left corner, and the mandorla that surrounds Gwanseeum-bosal is filled with beautiful lotus flowers. This painting, like the Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) that hangs on the far right wall, was created by the skilled abbot at Baekryeonam Hermitage.

Stepping outside the Daeung-jeon Hall, and to the left, you’ll find what looks to be a meditation hall. Down, and to the right, you’ll find the monks’ dorms and kitchen facilities at the hermitage. If you pop into the kitchen at Baekryeonam Hermitage, you’ll find a beautiful painting of Jowang-shin (The Fireplace King Spirit). In this painting, Jowang-shin is sitting upon his throne with a bouquet of peonies and lotus flowers on either side of the table tops. Also joining Jowang-shin in this painting is a woman preparing a meal and a man carrying a stack of logs to keep the kitchen fire well-tended-to. This is yet another painting created by the abbot of Baekryeonam Hermitage.

Across the pathway from the kitchen, you’ll find the monks’ dorms and administrative office. This is a two-in-one type of deal. I was lucky enough to enjoy tea and apples with the abbot of the hermitage. He’s a kind man who was originally from Samyeongam Hermitage at Tongdosa Temple. He’s also an accomplished taenghwa (altar painting) artist. He brought me to his neighbouring art studio that’s next to the living quarters. I was lucky enough to see the taenghwa that he’s currently working on, as well as the sketch for the Gwanseeum-bosal painting that now resides inside the Daeung-jeon Hall.

To the right of the kitchen and monks’ dorms, and up a pathway, you’ll find an enclosure that houses the Samseong-gak Hall. Near the shaman shrine hall is a stele, as well as ancient graffiti inscribed into the neighbouring rocks. The Samseong-gak Hall is newly built, and it’s still absent of any dancheong colours. Stepping inside the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find a collection of three shaman murals dedicated to the three most popular shaman deities in Korean Buddhism. On the far right, you’ll find an image of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) joined by a ferocious tiger in the painting. In the centre of the three murals, you’ll find an image of Chilseong (The Seven Stars). Chilseong is joined in this painting by frontal images of Ilgwang-bosal (The Sunlight Bodhisattva) and Wolgwang-bosal (The Moonlight Bodhisattva), who are both carrying large golden orbs in their hands. And to the far left, you’ll find a painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). The dongja (attendant) in the painting is making an offering of a peony to Dokseong.

How To Get There

There’s one way to get to Baekryeonam Hermitage using public transportation, but it’s not easy. You can take Bus #2-62 from the Uiryeong Bus Terminal for eight stops, or 13 minutes. You’ll need to get off at the “Gaeseung – 개승하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, and this is where it gets tough, you’ll need to hike 2.2 km westward up a side of a mountain. Follow the signs as you go. The total distance of the 2.2 km hike will take you around an hour.

And if you have a mobility issue, or you simply don’t want to make the 2.2 km hike, you can simply take a taxi from the Uiryeong Bus Terminal. The taxi ride should take around 15 minutes, or 9.9 km, and it’ll cost you around 15,000 won (one way).

Overall Rating: 6.5/10

There’s a lot to appreciate at Baekryeonam Hermitage, but what stands out is all the artwork created by the abbot of the hermitage. From the Jowang-shin (The Fireplace King Spirit) painting, to the Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) painting and the Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, as well as the Yongwang (Dragon King) painting inside the Yongwang-gak Hall, they are all simply stunning in their details. In addition to all of these paintings, you can also enjoy the “Wooden Seated Bodhisattva and Associated Relics, Baekryeonam Uiryeong” inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, as well as the beautiful views from the heights of Mt. Jigulsan, where Baekryeonam Hermitage is located. It doesn’t hurt that the abbot at Baekryeonam Hermitage is one of the friendliest and most talented monks that you’ll find at a Korean Buddhist temple or hermitage. Take it all in because Baekryeonam Hermitage is special.