Baekunam Hermitage – 백운암 (Gimhae, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Hermitage History
Baekunam Hermitage, which means “White Cloud Hermitage” in English, is located in northern Gimhae, Gyeongsangnam-do on the northern slopes of Mt. Mucheoksan (702.1). As for the name Mt. Mucheoksan, “Mu” means “without,” while “cheok” means “one” or a “single unit.” So Mt. Mucheoksan means “Without Equal/Peerless Mountain” in English. The name of the mountain is meant to symbolize its unmatched beauty and/or prominence. Another interpretation of the mountain’s name is believed to be connected to the Buddhist term “muchak,” which means “non-attachment.”
A little further up Mt. Mucheoksan, and beyond Baekunam Hermitage to the west, and you’ll come to a large lake known as Cheon-ji, which is “Heavenly Pond” in English. According to a legend, ten years after Queen Heo Hwang-ok (32 A.D – 189 A.D.) died, King Suro of Geumgwan Gaya (?–199 A.D.) also died. Purportedly, his tomb was built on flat land northeast of the royal palace. However, when they started to dig, water kept flooding the site, making it impossible as a burial site. Perplexed, the royal court consulted a pungsu-jiri (geomancy, feng shui) expert, who suggested that the energy flowing between Mt. Mucheoksan and the burial site was causing the problem. The solution, at least according to the pungsu-jiri expert, was to dig a pond near the peak of Mt. Mucheoksan. This would need to be done to help redirect the water in the area. Following this advice, workers created this pond. This then allowed for the burial site to dry out and for the funeral of King Suro to proceed. Cheon-ji Pond is considered the earliest recorded artificial pond on the Korean Peninsula, which adds to its historical significance.
There are various legends about both the founding of the hermitage and the mountain. One legend attributes the founding of Baekunam Hermitage to Jangyu-hwasang, who was a monk; and also, the brother of Queen Heo. Queen Heo was a legendary queen of the Gaya Confederacy (42–562 A.D.), who was the wife of King Suro. Another founding legend states that a monk named Mucheok-daesa, who stayed in the area of Gimhae during the Gaya Confederacy, first established Baekunam Hermitage. Being a revered monk, it’s suggested that the mountain was named in his honour. Together with neighbouring Moeunam Hermitage, they are known as Gaya Confederacy temples.
After this murky founding, the historical records of Baekunam Hermitage are basically non-existent. It’s not until 1801, and under the local patronage of Kim Duyeong and Song Yucheol, that the hermitage was rebuilt and renovated. Later, and in 1890, the monk Deokseong rebuilt several structures at Baekunam Hermitage, including the Chilseong-gak Hall. The current configuration of the hermitage consists of more modern buildings. Baekunam Hermitage is one of the 982 traditional temples in Korea.
Monk Jangyu-hwasang
According to legend, Jangyu-hwasang was the brother of Queen Heo Hwang-ok. Together, they travelled to the Korean Peninsula, arriving from the “Ayuta Kingdom.” Some scholars believed this place to be either a part of ancient India or a part of Southeast Asia. They would arrive at Garakguk, which is also known as the Gaya Confederacy. Purportedly, they were to bring Buddhism with them to the region.
This legend goes on to suggest that Jangyu-hwasang meditated at Mt. Balmosan, which is also known as Mt. Jangyusan. It’s from this mountain, and this mediation, that Jangyu-hwasang got his name. In English, “Jangyu” means “long staying,” which is a reference to his prolonged periods of meditation.
In addition to his name, Jangyu-hwasang is also credited with helping to spread Buddhism throughout the Gaya Confederacy. This includes the construction, purportedly, of Moeunam Hermitage, Baekunam Hermitage, and Chilbulsa Temple in Hadong, Gyeongsangnam-do. At Chilbulsa Temple, and with seven Gaya princes (his nephews), Jangyu-hwasang helped guide them towards enlightenment; and hence, the name of the temple. However and despite these legends, there’s no mention of Jangyu-hwasang in the “Samguk Yusa,” or the “Memorabilia of the Three Kingdoms” in English. Also, and much like the legitimacy of Queen Heo and Jangyu-hwasang first bringing Buddhism to Korea through Gaya, the records are scarce. In turn, this raises doubts about the historical accuracy of his existence.
If we look at the historical and legendary accounts surrounding Jangyu-hwasang, most of them occur in 19th and 20th century sources. In the “Garakguk Samwang Sajeokgo – 가락국 삼왕 사적고,” which was first published in 1800, an individual by the name of Bo Okseon (寶玉仙) is mentioned. This person is associated with the family of Queen Heo. Bo Okseon is depicted in this text as a Taoist figure. There is no claim in this text of the individual bringing Buddhism to the Korean Peninsula. In later documents like the “Gimhae Kim Clan Genealogy,” which was published in 1918, it’s suggested that Bo Okseon might of actually been the brother of Queen Heo. However, there is no reference in this text of him being a Buddhist figure or bringing Buddhism to the Korean Peninsula.
Over time, this legend transformed, which is made evident in the “Garakguksa Jangyu Hwasang Gijeokbi,” which was published in 1928. In this text, Bo Okseon is officially recognized as Jangyu-hwasang; thus, transforming him from a non-Buddhist figure into a Buddhist monk.
With the association of Jangyu-hwasang with Buddhism, several temples then became associated with him as their founder. According to the “Gimhae Eopji,” which was published in 1929, there were three temples built by King Suro. And that the Buddhism introduced by Jangyu-hwasang was actively practiced at this time in the Gaya Confederacy. The temples that would become linked with Jangyu-hwasang as its founder are Yeongguam Hermitage, Eunhasa Temple, Heungbuam Hermitage, Jangyusa Temple, Moeunam Hermitage, and Baekunam Hermitage.
Jangyu-hwasang is a good example of how legends can be transformed over time. First, Jangyu-hwasang appears to have been a Taoist figure, until he became a Buddhist monk. Along with this transformation came the change in who the founder of several temples in and around Gimhae, Gyeongsangnam-do were. No longer were they unknown, they were now founded by Jangyu-hwasang.
Hermitage Layout
It’s a long, steep hike up to Baekunam Hermitage from the temple parking lot. The gated road that leads up to Baekunam Hermitage is permanently locked; however, you can use this paved road as a trail leading up to the hermitage. In total, the hike up to Baekunam Hermitage is 900 metres with an increase in elevation from 225 metres to that of 500 metres. The hike can be quite steep in part, so be forewarned and bring a good pair of hiking boots.
Now, with all that being said, as you make your way up to Baekunam Hermitage, you can enjoy the spectacular views of the Nakdong River below and Mt. Togoksan (855.3 m) off in the distance. When you do eventually arrive at Baekunam Hermitage, you’ll be greeted by a diminutive Iljumun Gate. This understated entry gate is adorned in beautiful dancheong colours.
Beyond the Iljumun Gate, and up the side-winding set of stone stairs, you’ll find a two-story building to your left. The first story acts as the kitchen at the hermitage, while the second story acts as the monks’ dorms. It’s to the right of this two-story building, and up a narrow set of stone stairs, that you’ll come to the main courtyard at Baekunam Hermitage.
While making your way up these aforementioned stairs, you can enjoy some beautiful views. The first building that you’ll pass by to your left is a smaller collection of monks’ dorms. Having passed by this, you’ll finally have entered into the main temple courtyard. To your left is the Geukrak-jeon Hall, which looks out towards the valley below. The exterior walls to this modern main hall are adorned with various murals that include murals of a white crane, Sinseon (Taoist Immortals), lotus flowers, and scenic landscapes.
Stepping inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall, and resting on the main altar, you’ll find a triad of statues on the main altar. These diminutive statues are centred by an image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). This central statue is joined on either side by statues dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power). To the immediate left of the main altar is a large, modern painting dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). And on the far left wall, you’ll find a memorial shrine for the dead. To the right of the main altar, you’ll find a modern painting dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King). Yongwang sits on his throne in the middle of the sea. A pair of dragons are swirling around him, and a reddish-yellow sun appears in the background. Finally, and to the right of this painting dedicated to Yongwang, you’ll find a large, modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the right of the Geukrak-jeon Hall, and facing inward on the main hall, you’ll find the Myeongbu-jeon Hall. This, again, appears to be a modern building made of stone. Entering into the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, you’ll find a pair of paintings. The painting to the right is the older of the two, and it’s dedicated to Amita-bul. The painting to the left, on the other hand, is a modern painting dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). The central image of Jijang-bosal is surrounded in this painting by the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld).
To the left rear of the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, you’ll find a trail that makes its way up to the Sanshin-gak Hall. It appears as though there must have been recent flooding at the hermitage because there are large temporary wooden barriers on the trail leading up to the shaman shrine hall. As for the exterior of the Sanshin-gak Hall, it’s adorned with an all-white Sanshin (Mountain Spirit) painting, who is joined by a ferocious tiger. Stepping inside the Sanshin-gak Hall, you’ll find a stunning image the Mountain Spirit inside. Again, Sanshin is dressed all in white. He holds a feather fan in his left hand and a large, wooden staff in his right. At his feet is an adult tiger with two baby cubs. There’s also a dongja (attendant) holding a basket of peaches slung over his shoulder.
How To Get There
Outside of owning your own mode of transportation, it’s difficult to get to Baekunam Hermitage. However, you can catch a taxi from the Gimhae Bus Terminal, but it won’t be cheap. From the bus terminal, and to get to Baekunam Hermitage’s parking lot, it’ll cost you nearly 22,000 won (one way).
From the hermitage parking lot, and as was previously mentioned, the gated road leading up to Baekunam Hermitage is permanently locked; however, you can use this paved road as a trail leading up to the hermitage. In total, the hike up to Baekunam Hermitage is 900 metres with an increase in elevation from 225 metres to that of 500 metres. The hike can be quite steep in parts, so be forewarned and bring a good pair of hiking boots.
Overall Rating: 5.5/10
The hike up to Baekunam Hermitage is a bit grueling, but the views are worth it. Additionally, you can also enjoy the all-white image of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) inside the shaman shrine hall, as well as the main altar triad, the Yongwang (Dragon King) mural, and the Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall. Baekunam Hermitage is one of those places where the mountain that surrounds the hermitage is even more beautiful than the hermitage itself. This doesn’t often happen, but it sometimes does like in the case of Baekunam Hermitage in northern Gimhae, Gyeongsangnam-do.
