Banryongsa Temple – 반룡사 (Goryeong, Gyeongsangbuk-do)
Temple History
Banryongsa Temple (or Ballyongsa Temple) is located to the east of Mt. Misungsan (755 m) in western Goryeong, Gyeongsangbuk-do. This Banryongsa Temple shouldn’t be confused with the one in neighbouring Gyeongsan, Gyeongsangbuk-do. Banryongsa Temple means “Curled/Coiled Dragon Temple” in English. Banryongsa Temple is named after the belief that the temple was built on the site imbued with the mystical energy of a divine dragon by the descendants of Daegaya. As for when the temple was first established, one theory claims that the temple was first established in 802 A.D. around the same time as Haeinsa Temple. According to the “Banryongsa Temple Record” in the “Historical Records of Joseon Temple” (Joseon Sachal Saryu), it states that King Aejang of Silla (r. 800-809 A.D.) in fact stayed at Banryongsa temple before proceeding onto Haeinsa Temple. However, the reliability of this claim is uncertain.
According to another theory, Banryongsa Temple was first founded during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392) by the monk Yoil. Yoil settled at Banryongsa Temple to help revive the Hwaeom school of Korean Buddhism. During the Goryeo Dynasty, the temple was rebuilt by Bojo-guksa (1158-1210) and then reconstructed by Naong Hyegeun (1320-1376). According to the “Dongguk Yeoji Seungnam,” or “Geographical Survey of the Eastern Kingdom” in English, the temple received a proclamation from Kublai Khan (1215-1294) of the Yuan Dynasty (1271 to 1368). The proclamation warned Yuan soldiers, who had come to Gyeongsang-do Province to prepare for an invasion of Japan, against disturbing the temple grounds, stating that violators would be punished according to the law. However, some scholars suggest that the Banryongsa Temple mentioned in this historical record might not be the same Banryongsa located in Goryeong.
During the early Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), the temple belonged to the Gyo-jong (doctrinal school) of Korean Buddhism. The temple would eventually be destroyed during the Imjin War (1592-98), but it would be rebuilt by Samyeong-daesa (1544-1610). Later, a fire would completely destroy the six temple buildings including the Daeung-jeon Hall. However, the temple would be rebuilt by magistrate Yun Simhyeop during the reign of King Yeongjo of Joseon (1724-76) in 1764. The temple would eventually fall into disrepair after another fire, but it was eventually rebuilt in 1928 through the efforts of Lee Bong-jo, who was the acting governor of Goryeong.
In total, Banryongsa Temple is home to four provincial treasures, they are the “Wooden Seated Vairocana Buddha Triad of Banryongsa Temple, Goryeong,” the “Wooden Seated Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva of Banryongsa Temple, Goryeong,” the “Multi-Story Stone Pagoda of Banryongsa Temple,” and the Banryongsa Bronze Bell. All four are Gyeongsangbuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage.
Temple Layout
On the road leading up to Banryongsa Temple, you’ll pass by the small, slender Iljumun Gate to your left. Continuing up the temple road, and eventually arriving at the temple parking lot, you’ll find a lotus pond. From the temple parking lot, you’ll next see the unpainted Boje-ru Pavilion. The first story of the structure acts as an entry to the main temple grounds, while the second story is used for larger Dharma talks.
Having made your way under the Boje-ru Pavilion, you’ll find yourself squarely in the main temple courtyard. To your left and right are buildings for the temple’s administrative office and the monks’ dorms. Beyond these, and up a set of stone stairs, you’ll find the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in a beautiful collection of Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Also, the main hall is stunningly adorned in intricate dancheong colours.
Stepping inside the main hall, you’ll find a triad of statues on the main altar known as the “Wooden Seated Vairocana Buddha Triad of Banryongsa Temple, Goryeong.” The central image is that of Birojana-bul (The Buddha of Cosmic Energy). And it’s joined on either side by Bodhisattvas. This triad was first made in 1642 by the monk sculptor Hyehui. The central image of Birojana-bul is making the Diamond Fist mudra (ritualized hand gesture) with his right hand clasping the left index finger. This mudra is unique to Birojana-bul. This image of Birojana-bul is made of wood. And typically, these wooden Buddhist statues are made from a single piece of wood. However, this statue of Birojana-bul is made from multiple connecting wooden pieces. Also, and this is unusual, clay was added to the statue to create a more realistic expression of the creases on the statue’s robe. Overall, the statue is both well-proportioned and realistic in expression. Also taking up residence inside the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall is an older Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) on the far right wall. Hanging on the far left wall is a mural and shrine dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). And if you look up as you either enter or exit the main hall, you’ll find a mural dedicated to the legendary creation of the moktak (wooden bell).
The rest of the temple shrine halls lay to the right of the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall up a trail. There’s an elevated portion of the temple grounds that house two additional shrine halls. But before making your way up the stairs to see them, you’ll notice that there’s a stone relief dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King) to the far left near a spring.
Having seen this, and having mounted the stairs, you’ll first come to the Jijang-jeon Hall, which is the shrine hall situated to the left. The roof of the Jijang-jeon Hall is adorned with a large manja symbol. Stepping inside the Jijang-jeon Hall, you’ll notice the solitary image of Jijang-bosal on the main altar. This is the “Wooden Seated Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva of Banryongsa Temple, Goryeong.” It’s believed that this statue was created during the late 17th century or early 18 century by the monk sculptor Geummun. The statue was carved from wood, and it’s gilded on the exterior. The head and part of the face were partially painted. It has a flat nose, slender eyes, and wide, long ears.
To the right of the Jijang-jeon Hall is the Yaksa-jeon Hall. However, the name of this hall is quite deceiving. If you enter this shrine hall from the left, you’ll notice a signboard over the side entryway that reads “Samseong-gak Hall.” However, over the front main entry, there’s a signboard that reads “Yaksa-jeon Hall.” The reason for this, and as you enter this shrine hall, you’ll notice three murals dedicated to three of the most popular shaman deities in Korean Buddhism. The central painting is dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). And to the left and right of this central mural are paintings dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) and Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). As for what makes this a Yaksa-jeon Hall is the golden statue of Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise) resting in front of the mural dedicated to Chilseong. The head of Yaksayeorae-bul is elongated, and it holds a medicinal jar in its lap. The entire body is surrounded by an equally golden mandorla.
To the front right of the Yaksa-jeon Hall and the Jijang-jeon Hall, you’ll find a clearing with numerous stone artifacts. These include four stupas, a single turtle-shaped pedestal without a stele body, as well as foundational stones.
There are two provincial treasures that are no longer housed at the temple. Worried about theft, the two treasures are now housed at the Daegaya Museum. The first is the “Multi-Story Stone Pagoda of Banryongsa Temple.” This pagoda resembles the “Multi-Story Stone Pagoda and Stone Lantern at Wondangam Hermitage of Haeinsa Temple, Hapcheon.” This pagoda dates back to the Goryeo Dynasty, and it stands on a three-tier granite base with a single remaining body stone. Above this, there stands multiple layers of slate roof stones. The pagoda stands 2.4 metres in height.
As for the Banryongsa Bronze Bell, which is another provincial treasure, it, too, is now housed at the Daegaya Museum to prevent theft. The bronze bell was first made in 1753, it stands 50 cm in height, and it weighs approximately 60 kg. The upper part of the bell is inscribed with a six-syllable mantra (Om Mani Padme Hum). Overall, the bronze ceremonial bell is a beautiful example of late Joseon craftsmanship.
How To Get There
From the Goryeong Intercity Bus Terminal, you can take Bus #606-47 to get to Banryongsa Temple. You’ll need to take this bus for 11 stops, or 17 minutes, and get off at the “Banryongsa – 반룡사 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll be able to see the temple to the north.
Overall Rating: 6.5/10
There’s a lot to appreciate at Banryongsa Temple including the friendly abbot at the temple. Perhaps the biggest highlight at the temple is the “Wooden Seated Vairocana Buddha Triad of Banryongsa Temple, Goryeong.” The central image of Birojana-bul is simply stunning. The dancheong adorning the exterior of the main hall is beautiful, as well. Other things to keep an eye out for are the stone artifacts including the turtle-shaped pedestal for the body-less stele, the statue dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) inside the Jijang-jeon Hall, as well as the artwork inside the Yaksa-jeon Hall/Samseong-gak Hall. Banryongsa Temple makes for a beautiful little getaway.
