Bukmireukam Hermitage – 북미륵암 (Haenam, Jeollanam-do)
Hermitage History
Bukmireukam Hermitage is located on the Daeheungsa Temple grounds to the west of Mt. Duryunsan (700 m) in Haenam, Jeollanam-do. The name of the hermitage means “North Mireuk-bul Hermitage” in English, which is a reference to the Future Buddha, Mireuk-bul. There are no records regarding the exact date that Bukmireukam Hermitage was first founded. However, and according to the “Daedunsaji” which means “Records of Daedunsa” in English, “Master Ongok Yeongtak restored Bukam Hermitage in the Gapsul year of the Qianlong era,” which suggests that Bukmireukam Hermitage was restored in 1754. This same record also states that Jinjeong-guksa resided at Bukmireukam Hermitage between 1241 and 1252. Additionally, Jinjeong-guksa, who was also known as Cheonchaek, had his alms bowl kept at Bukmireukam Hermitage until the late 18th century.
Around 1970, three Goryeo-era (918-1392) gilt-bronze Buddha statues were recovered from inside the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda at Bukmireukam Hermitage of Daeheungsa Temple.” These three gilt-bronze statues are now housed inside the temple museum at Daeheungsa Temple. In 2004, the Yonghwa-jeon Hall, which protects the “Rock-carved Seated Buddha at Bungmireugam Hermitage of Daeheungsa Temple,” was dismantled and then reconstructed. It was at this time that an inscription was discovered on a beam inside the Yonghwa-jeon Hall indicating that the Yonghwa-jeon Hall had been originally constructed in 1554 and underwent six restorations until 1777.
Bukmireukam Hermitage is home to one National Treasure, which is the “Rock-carved Seated Buddha at Bukmireukam Hermitage of Daeheungsa Temple.” The hermitage is also home to one Korean Treasure, which is the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda at Bukmireukam Hermitage of Daeheungsa Temple.” Bukmireukam Hermitage is also home to one “Jeollanam-do Cultural Heritage Materials,” which is the “East Three-Story Stone Pagoda at Bukmireukam, Daehungsa Temple.”
Hermitage Layout
The long hike up to Bukmireukam Hermitage isn’t an easy one from Daeheungsa Temple. There is a new road that makes its way near the hermitage grounds located to the east of Iljiam Hermitage and to the south of Bukmireukam Hermitage. But even still, from where the road ends, which is at the Manilam Hermitage Site, it’s still a 500 metre hike over large boulders. But if you’re willing, the hike is definitely worth it.
When you do eventually arrive at Bukmireukam Hermitage, you’ll first be greeted by the monks’ dorms at the hermitage. To the east of these monks’ dorms, and up a set of stone stairs, you’ll find the Yonghwa-jeon Hall that dates back to 1554. The exterior walls of this shrine hall are left unadorned in their natural wood tones. Stepping inside the Yonghwa-jeon Hall, you’ll find the incredible “Rock-carved Seated Buddha at Bukmireukam Hermitage of Daeheungsa Temple.” There are no historical records indicating as to when this image was created; however, the style of the “Rock-carved Seated Buddha at Bukmireukam Hermitage of Daeheungsa Temple” indicates, alongside the two hermitage pagodas, that it was created in the 10th-11th century. During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), this image was considered to be Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha). The relief image has strong, youthful features, which differs from the idealized form of Mireuk-bul that was typically created at this time. Instead, the features are more realistic, which displays a more regional style, which was likely sponsored by local aristocrats rather than the centralized support of royals.
The “Rock-carved Seated Buddha at Bukmireukam Hermitage of Daeheungsa Temple” is made from a large natural rock cliff and measures 4.2 metres in height. The face of Mireuk-bul has a serene face that’s a bit chubbier than a more traditional idealized form. It has long ears with three wrinkles on its neck. These three wrinkles are meant to represent the three ways for a Buddhist to attain enlightenment, which are known as “samdo” in Korean. The body of Mireuk-bul is heavily clothed. Rather strangely, it looks similar in style to the “Iron Seated Vairocana Buddha of Dopiansa Temple.” The body of the relief is large in size, but not quite balanced. The image of Mireuk-bul sits upon a lotus pedestal, and there is a nimbus that surrounds its head, while a much larger mandorla covers its entire body. Instead of being fiery in design, the nimbus and mandorla consist of three simple rings. And rather interestingly, the image of Mireuk-bul’s hands are forming the mudra of the Earth-Touching Gesture. Surrounding the large image of Mireuk-bul, and placed on all four corners of the large, natural rock, are reliefs of Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities).
To the left rear of the Yonghwa-jeon Hall, you’ll find the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda at Bukmireukam Hermitage of Daeheungsa Temple.” Like the “Rock-carved Seated Buddha at Bukmireukam Hermitage of Daeheungsa Temple,” it’s believed that this pagoda was made at the start of the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). The pagoda rests upon a two-story stylobate. It has pillar patterns engraved on each of the base stones of the pagoda. The main body stone and the roof stones of the pagoda are all made from a single stone. All that remains of the finial atop the pagoda is the finial base, which is a lotus flower design. While quite simple in design, it is well-balanced. This pagoda formerly housed three gilt-bronze statues that are now housed at the neighbouring Daeheungsa Temple museum.
To the south of the Yonghwa-jeon Hall, and up a set of stairs, there’s a trail that leads to a mountain plateau that houses the “East Three-Story Stone Pagoda at Bukmireukam, Daehungsa Temple.” This pagoda is similar in design to the northerly “Three-Story Stone Pagoda at Bukmireukam Hermitage of Daeheungsa Temple.” This pagoda stands 3.6 metres in height. While the three-story structure was largely intact, it was restored to its original form in 1995. Overall, the pagoda follows the tradition of the three-story pagodas created during Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.). Rather interestingly, and according to pungsu-jiri (geomancy, feng shui), the area where Bukmireukam Hermitage is located is said to resemble a sea crab. That’s why it’s believed that the pagodas at the hermitage were erected in their given positions corresponding to the crab’s left and right claws. This was done in order to suppress the earth’s energy, preventing the crab from moving.
Just up the trail, and beyond the “East Three-Story Stone Pagoda at Bukmireukam, Daehungsa Temple” to the south, you’ll find a clearing that houses a Sanshin-gak Hall. The exterior walls to this shaman shrine hall are adorned in simple dancheong colours. Housed inside this shaman shrine hall, you’ll find an image of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) holding a white feathered fan and joined by an adult tiger and its cub. It’s also just beyond the Sanshin-gak Hall that you’ll find a natural, rocky overlook that looks out towards the peak of Mt. Duryunsan off in the distance.
How To Get There
To get to Bukmireukam Hermitage, you’ll first need to get to Daeheungsa Temple. To get to Daeheungsa Temple from the Haenam Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to catch a bus that goes directly to the temple. This bus may also be referred to as Daedunsa Temple. The bus that runs to the temple leaves every thirty minutes starting at 6:50 a.m., and it runs until 7:40 p.m. The bus ride should take about twenty minutes. From the eastern portion of the temple grounds, you’ll find a trail head that makes its way up to Bukmireukam Hermitage. Follow the trail-markers as you go. In total, the mountain hike from Daeheungsa Temple should be about a kilometre long.
However, there are two ways to get to Bukmireukam Hermitage, depending on whether you have a car or not. If you do in fact have a car, you can drive up the new mountain road that makes its way near Bukmireukam Hermitage. The road is located to the east of Iljiam Hermitage and to the south of Bukmireukam Hermitage. But even still, from where the road ends, which is at the Manilam Hermitage Site, it’s still a 500 metre hike over large boulders so be careful. It can be a bit treacherous.
Overall Rating: 7/10
The obvious main highlight to Bukmireukam Hermitage is the “Rock-carved Seated Buddha at Bukmireukam Hermitage of Daeheungsa Temple,” which is housed inside the mid-16th century Yonghwa-jeon Hall. This image of Mireuk-bul, which just so happens to be a National Treasure, is one of the most stunning historical reliefs in all of Korea. In addition to this National Treasure, there are two three-story pagodas; one of which, is a Korean Treasure, while the other is a provincial treasure. There are some stunning views of Daeheungsa Temple below and the peak of Mt. Duryunsan off in the distance. Bukmireukam Hermitage is one of the most beautiful (and famous) hermitages in all of Korea. If you can get to it, it’s definitely worth a visit.
