Byeoksongsa Temple – 벽송사 (Hamyang, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Temple History
Byeoksongsa Temple is located in southern Hamyang, Gyeongsangnam-do in the northern portion of Jirisan National Park. The name of the temple means “Green Pines Temple” in English. It’s believed that the temple was first founded during the early Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). The temple was constructed under the guidance of the monk Byeoksong-jieom-daesa (1464-1534). And it’s from this monk that the temple gets its name.
Byeoksongsa Temple became known for its ties to Seon Buddhism. During the Joseon Dynasty, Byeoksongsa Temple became a centre for the study of Seon Buddhism. Many notable monks practiced at Byeoksongsa Temple including Seosan-daesa (1520 – 1604). Of the monks that practiced at Byeoksongsa Temple, some 109 would become masters.
In 1704, the temple was destroyed by fire; however, it would later be rebuilt. In 1850, the temple would be expanded. However, during the Korean War (1950-53), Byeoksongsa Temple was destroyed, once more. The temple was severely damaged when communist forces, known as the “red guard” or “빨치산” in Korean, used the temple as a field hospital. Byeoksongsa Temple was set on fire by the South Korean army to flush out these communist forces. The temple would be reconstructed in 1960; however, the temple was located about fifty metres down the mountain from its original location. The rebuilding of the temple began in the temple’s current location.
Byeoksongsa Temple is home to three or four resident monks at any given time. Also, there are about 700 to 800 lay-followers that call Byeoksongsa Temple their home temple.
In total, Byeoksongsa Temple is home to one Korean Treasure, the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda of Byeoksongsa Temple, Hamyang,” as well as four additional provincial treasures. The first of these provincial treasures is the “Wooden Guardian Posts of Byeoksongsa Temple, Hamyang,” which is Gyeongsangnam-do Folklore Cultural Heritage #2; the “Eungyun Gyeongam’s Collected Works Woodblock,” which is Gyeongsangnam-do Tangible Cultural Heritage #314; the “Lotus Sutra Woodblocks of Byeoksongsa Temple, Hamyang,” which is Gyeongsangnam-do Tangible Cultural Heritage #315; and the “Portrait of Jiem of Byeoksongsa Temple,” which is Gyeongsangnam-do Tangible Cultural Heritage #316. Additionally, Byeoksongsa Temple is one of the 982 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.
Temple Layout
You first make your way up a winding road, until you come to the temple parking lot. In the lower courtyard, you’ll find twin buildings that face in on each other. These buildings are known as the Cheongheo-dang Hall and the Anguk-dang Hall. Both are used for lodging (probably for the Temple Stay program).
Up a set of stone stairs, you’ll arrive in the middle temple courtyard. This is where all of the shrine halls at Byeoksongsa Temple are located. Straight ahead is what looks to be the monks’ quarters. To the right of the monks’ dorms is the administrative office at Byeoksongsa Temple.
Behind the monks’ dorms is the Wontong-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the Wontong-jeon Hall are filled with beautiful murals dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and various images of the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha). Stepping inside the Wontong-jeon Hall, you’ll find a solitary statue of Gwanseeum-bosal on the main altar. She wears a wonderfully ornate crown. Additionally, she has a slender face with feminine features. To the left of the main altar, you’ll find a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural), while to the right of the main altar you’ll find a mural dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). And hanging on the far right wall is a mural dedicated to Byeoksong-jieom-daesa, the founder of Byeoksongsa Temple.
To the right of the Wontong-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Sanshin-gak Hall. The exterior walls of the Sanshin-gak Hall are adorned by three different incarnations of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). Two of these three paintings are accompanied by tigers. One of these Sanshin is accompanied by a white tiger, while the other is accompanied by an orange tiger. Stepping inside the shaman shrine hall, you’ll find an older mural dedicated to the Mountain Spirit. Of interest is the dongja (attendant) at Sanshin’s side that has a leafy collar reminiscent of Dangun (the legendary founder and first king of Gojoseon). The tiger in the painting seems a bit angry, as well.
Behind the administrative office at Byeoksongsa Temple, and before climbing the final set of stairs up to the upper courtyard, have a look for a wooden pavilion that houses the “Wooden Guardian Posts of Byeoksongsa Temple, Hamyang.” Guardian posts are usually made of wood or stone in human forms and are erected at the entrance of a village or along a street in the belief that they will protect the area that they stand. Additionally, they sometimes mark the boundaries between two areas, as well. The “Wooden Guardian Posts of Byeoksongsa Temple, Hamyang” are believed to have first been made in the early 20th century. Originally, they were erected at the entrance of Byeoksongsa Temple with half of their bodies buried in the ground. The left wooden guardian post is a general who wards off evil spirits from entering the temple. The upper portion of this guardian post was burned, so it’s original appearance has been partially destroyed. The right guardian post is a deity who protects the Buddha and his teachings. The two guardian posts have exaggerated features with large round eyes, noses, and beards.
Continuing up the dirt road where the wooden pavilion that houses the “Wooden Guardian Posts of Byeoksongsa Temple, Hamyang,” you’ll find an upper courtyard that was once the actual main temple courtyard. Housed inside the present upper courtyard is a row of older stupas. Beyond these, you’ll find the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda of Byeoksongsa Temple.” This pagoda consists of a three-story body with a two-layer platform, which is typical of a pagoda from Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.). However, what’s interesting about this pagoda is that the temple wasn’t first constructed until 1520, which is during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). The two-layer platform and its four corners are thinly carved with pillar patterns. The top stone of the upper layer is composed of a single stone plate under which a thin tier is engraved in parallel. Every corner of the core stones are engraved with pillar patterns. The roof stones have thin eaves and are straight, curving heavily upwards at the ends. Of the upper part of the pagoda, only the finial to the base still exists. This portion of the finial resembles an upturned bowl. Overall, the pagoda is tightly designed and well-proportioned. Rather interestingly, and this is a first for me, the original location of the pagoda was placed behind the former main hall at Byeoksongsa Temple. It’s also from the heights of the upper temple courtyard that you get beautiful views of the rolling mountains off in the distance.
How To Get There
There is no practical way to get to Byeoksongsa Temple by public transportation; instead, the only way that you can get to the temple is by taxi from the Hamyang Bus Terminal. This option, however, won’t be cheap. From the Hamyang Bus Terminal, the taxi ride will last 30 minutes, or 21 km, and it’ll cost you around 27,000 won (one way). So outside of owning your own mode of transportation, it won’t be inexpensive.
Overall Rating: 6.5/10
There are definitely a few beautiful highlights to Byeoksongsa Temple that include the stunning views of Mt. Jirisan off in the distance. Also, Byeoksongsa Temple is located inside the northern portion of Jirisan National Park. In addition to all of the natural beauty that surrounds Byeoksongsa Temple, you can also enjoy the artwork in and around the Wontong-jeon Hall like the exterior wall paintings of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and the main altar statue of the Bodhisattva of Compassion inside. There are also three beautiful paintings surrounding the Sanshin-gak Hall, the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda of Byeoksongsa Temple” in the upper courtyard, and the “Wooden Guardian Posts of Byeoksongsa Temple, Hamyang.” And not too far off, just 500 metres away, you can also explore the amazing Seoamjeongsa Temple. Together, they can make for quite a beautiful day out in Korea’s countryside.
