Daebeopsa Temple – 대법사 (Miryang, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Temple History
Daebeopsa Temple is located in western Miryang, Gyeongsangnam-do in the northern foothills of Mt. Deokamsan (545.3 m). Originally, the temple was constructed in 668 A.D. by the famed monk Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.). Purportedly, while meditating, Uisang-daesa saw three cranes flying in the sky. Eventually, they would land in an area where the future Daebeopsa Temple would be built. At this time, he built a small hermitage and named it Baekhaam Hermitage. Originally, Baekhaam Hermitage was located near the future birthplace of Samyeong-daesa (1544-1610), the warrior monk. In fact, Samyeong-daesa stayed at this very hermitage for about ten years of his life.
Later, and after Samyeong-daesa died at Hongjeam Hermitage on the Haeinsa Temple grounds in Hapcheon, Gyeongsangnam-do in 1610, King Hyeonjong of Joseon (r. 1659-1674) wanted to honour the contributions that Korean Buddhist monks made during the Imjin War (1592-98). In particular, the King wanted to commemorate Seosan-daesa (1520-1604), Yeonggyu-daesa (1537-1592), and Samyeong-daesa. So in 1669, King Hyeongjong of Joseon ordered the enshrinement of these three monks’ portraits at Baekhaam Hermitage. It was also at this time that the hermitage changed its name to Pyochungsa Temple (Fidelity Displayed Temple). However, this temple shouldn’t be confused with the more famous Pyochungsa Temple, which is also located in Miryang.
Sometime during the 17th century, the temple was abandoned. In 1714, Kim Changseok, who was the governor of Miryang, decided to help build Pyochungsa Temple. Additionally, the governor of Gyeongsang-do requested donations from the royal court. As a result of these efforts, Pyochungsa Temple was rebuilt.
In 1839, the temple was moved to its present location, and it was renamed Yeongjeongsa Temple. However, and as a result of royal policies at this time, the temple was abandoned, once more. In 1969, and with the appointment of the nun Ji-hye as the abbess of the temple, the temple’s named changed; this time, to that of its current name of Daebeopsa Temple. It was at this time that an extensive restoration and renovation of the temple took place. In 1998, the Daeungbo-jeon Hall and the Samseong-gak Hall were completed. Currently, Daebeopsa Temple is run by Buddhist nuns.
Temple Legend
There is a temple legend associated with the quince tree that stands in the main temple courtyard. Purportedly, this quince tree grew out of the walking stick that Samyeong-daesa planted on the grounds. In total, the tree stands 2.2 metres in height, and it’s 3.2 metres in circumference. During the renovations that took place at the temple in 1993, there were plans to move the quince tree and build a Daeung-jeon Hall in its place.
However, when they started to remove the quince tree, a sound like thunder was made that echoed from the quince tree. Following this thunderous noise, a voice resembling a tiger said, “I have guarded this place for four hundred years. How dare you try to change it!? I will never leave.”
As a result, the temple’s abbess, Ji-hye, decided to abandon the plan to have the quince tree re-located to build the Daeung-jeon Hall. Now, that’s why the layout of the temple is rather unconventional, when compared to other traditional temples in Korea. The quince tree was officially designated as a protected tree on August 16th, 1994.
Temple Layout
As was already mentioned, Daebeopsa Temple has a rather peculiar layout. From the temple parking lot, you’ll first notice the two-in-one Cheonwangmun Gate/Beomjong-ru Pavilion. The first story of this rather tall structure is the Cheonwangmun Gate. The exterior walls are adorned with murals of Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors). Housed inside this entry gate, you’ll find four large paintings dedicated to the Four Heavenly Kings. All four are masterful paintings of these guardians.
To the left of the Cheonwangmun Gate, and then to the right, you’ll pass by the nuns’ dorms, kitchen, and administrative office at Daebeopsa Temple. Past this, you’ll enter into to the main temple courtyard. To your left is the quince tree from the temple legend. Purportedly, this quince tree is over four hundred years old. To the left of this tree, and up a flight of stone stairs, is the rather long Bohwang-jeon Hall, which is a Seon meditation hall that’s off-limits to the general public.
Across the temple courtyard, you’ll find the second story of the two-in-one Cheonwangmun Gate/Beomjong-ru Pavilion. This pavilion houses the four traditional Buddhist percussion instruments including a beautiful, blue Mokeo (Wooden Fish Drum).
Between the Bohwang-jeon Hall and the Beomjong-ru Pavilion, and standing in the centre of the main temple courtyard, is a five-story pagoda that’s highly original in design. The five-story pagoda rests upon a large foundation. The base stones are adorned with stone reliefs of the Eight Legions. Above these reliefs, and at the base of the first body stone, you’ll find four stone reliefs dedicated to Samyeong-daesa. At first, I thought it was Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), but there was no tiger. And then I remembered that I was in Miryang, the birthplace of the famed monk. Typically, a Korean pagoda is adorned with images of the Eight Legions, Bodhisattvas, or Buddhas. I’ve never seen an image of a Korean monk adorning a pagoda in Korea. It’s highly original.
Beyond the five-story pagoda, you’ll find the Daeungbo-jeon Hall. This is the main hall from the temple legend that was built in this location because of the four hundred year old quince tree. The exterior walls of the main hall are adorned with images of the Palsang-do (Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals) and the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). If you look closely, you’ll find that the typically open “O” from the eighth painting known as the “The Ox Transcended (or Forgotten)” is occupied by a baby in utero. Also, the front floral latticework is stunning. Stepping inside the large interior of the Daeungbo-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by the central image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) and flanked by statues of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) and Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). This triad is situated under a large, red datjib (canopy). To the left of the main altar, you’ll find a large painting dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars) and a statue and painting dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) on the far left wall. To the right of the main altar, on the other hand, you’ll find a large, well-populated Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the right of the Daeungbo-jeon Hall, you’ll find a large stupa for the nun Ji-hye who was instrumental in the modern reconstruction of Daebeopsa Temple. To the left of the main hall is the Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls to this shaman shrine hall are adorned with vibrant murals of the Sinseon (Taoist Immortals), as well as one dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), and another painting with a pair of tigers in it. Stepping inside the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find a set of shaman paintings on the main altar. To the far right is a painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). The central painting is dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars), while the far left painting is dedicated to Sanshin. And contained within this painting is a fierce tiger with menacing eyes.
The final shrine hall that visitors can explore is to the south and up a steep incline. The entire way is paved, and it ends at the Yongwang-dang Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in some wonderful paintings dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Yongwang (The Dragon King), as well as dongja (attendants). Stepping inside the Yongwang-dang Hall, you’ll find a large altar painting dedicated to Yongwang, which is fronted by a large seated image of the Dragon King, as well.
How To Get There
From the Miryang Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take the bus named “Seogajeong 3 – 서가정3” to get to Daebeopsa Temple. You’ll need to take this bus for 19 stops, or 40 minutes, and get off at the “Gwandong – 관동하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to head southwest down the “Muanseo-ro – 무안서로” road. This road will zig and zag for 1.6 km. And the last parts of the hike will be uphill. In total, the 1.6 km hike should take about 35 minutes. So in total, the entire bus ride and hike from the Miryang Bus Terminal to Daebeopsa Temple should take about an hour and fifteen minutes.
Overall Rating: 6/10
There’s a lot to see and appreciate at Daebeopsa Temple. The only drawback, however, is that all of the construction at the temple is modern. Some of the highlights to enjoy at the temple are the four hundred year old quince tree and the massive Daeungbo-jeon Hall. Both the interior and exterior of the main hall are packed with Buddhist artistry. The five-story pagoda out in front of the Daeungbo-jeon Hall with the images of Samyeong-daesa (1544-1610) are highly original. Other things to keep an eye out for are the shaman painting inside the Samseong-gak Hall, especially the painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). Also, the paintings inside the Cheonwangmun Gate of the Four Heavenly Kings, as well as the artwork in and around the Yongwang-dang up the hillside are stunning, too.
