Seoul

Daeseongsa Temple – 대성사 (Seocho-gu, Seoul)

The Three-Headed Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) at Daeseongsa Temple in Seocho-gu, Seoul.

Temple History

Daeseongsa Temple is located in Seocho-gu, Seoul to the east of Mt. Umyeonsan (293 m) and behind the Seoul Arts Center. In 384 A.D., Buddhism was introduced officially to the Baekje Kingdom (18 B.C. – 660 A.D.). An Indian monk named Marananta (fl. late 4th century) crossed the sea from the Eastern Jin Dynasty (317–420 A.D.), where he arrived in the capital of Baekje. King Chimnyu of Baekje (r. 384-385 A.D.) welcomed Marananta to the palace. The following year, ten Baekje citizens were ordained as Buddhist monks. However, while Marananta traveled through Central Asia and China to Baekje, he suffered from illnesses caused by the unfamiliar food and climate. Purportedly, he was cured of these ailments, and ultimately recovered, by drinking spring water from Mt. Umyeonsan. After being healed by this curative spring water, Marananta relocated from the Baekje palace to Mt. Umyeonsan. It was here that he would build a place called Daeseong Chodang – 大聖草堂. It was a humble dwelling where he could worship. Eventually, the site where Daeseong Chodang was located became sacred. Eventually, this site would come to be known as Daeseongsa Temple.

With all that being said, Daeseongsa Temple remained relatively unknown until last century. The reason for this is that a lot of the temple’s history was lost by the Japanese military when they burned down the temple down. The reason for the temple’s destruction came as a result of the monk Baek Yongseong’s efforts for Korean independence. The monk Baek Yongseong (1864–1940) participated in the March 1st Movement of 1919. In fact, he was one of the 33 Representatives of Korean Independence who signed the Independence Declaration during Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45). Starting in 1910, Baek Yongseong stayed at Daeseongsa Temple. Before this, Baek Yongseong resided at Chilbulsa Temple in Mt. Jirisan as the abbot. Due to his involvement in the independence movement, Baek Yongseong was imprisoned for a year and a half at the notorious Seodaemun Prison. He was detained until 1921.

After Daeseongsa Temple’s destruction, and through the efforts of Kim Dam Jangro, who was the abbot of Chilbulsa Temple, Daeseongsa Temple was rebuilt in 1954. And from the day it was rebuilt, Daeseongsa Temple continues to grow in both size and significance.

Currently, Daeseongsa Temple is home to just one municipal treasure, the “Seated Wooden Buddha of Daeseongsa Temple,” which is Seoul Tangible Cultural Heritage #92. Additionally, Daeseongsa Temple is one of the 982 traditional temples in Korea.

The “Seated Wooden Buddha of Daeseongsa Temple.” (Picture courtesy of KHS).

Temple Layout

You’ll first make your way up to the main temple courtyard from the temple parking lot. Either take the road to the left, or up a set of uneven stone stairs in the centre. You’ll first encounter a rather peculiar-looking stone pagoda. In fact, it closely resembles the “Four Lion Nine-Story Stone Pagoda at Sajabinsinsa Temple Site,” which is located in Jecheon, Chungcheongbuk-do. However, this pagoda at Daeseongsa Temple is modern. The base of the slender pagoda is adorned with the images of the Four Heavenly Kings. Above this, and elevated by the heads of four lion statues, you’ll find an image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) at the centre. Above this beautifully designed base are the three stories of the pagoda. And the first story of the pagoda is adorned with images of various Buddhas. This pagoda is fronted by a beautiful pair of stone dragons, as well as a beautiful view of Seoul off in the distance.

To the right of the uniquely designed four lion three-story pagoda at Daeseongsa Temple, you’ll find the Daeungbo-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the main hall are adorned in Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside the Daeungbo-jeon Hall, you’ll find a large statue dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), who sits all alone on the main altar. This large statue of Seokgamoni-bul rests under a wide datjib (canopy). To the left and right of the main altar, you’ll find an amazing collection of sixteen statues dedicated to the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha). And hanging on the far left wall, you’ll find one of the largest Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Murals) at any temple in Korea.

To the rear of the Daeungbo-jeon Hall, you’ll find an outdoor shrine for Yongwang (The Dragon King) in a cave and fronted by two stout seokdeung (stone lanterns). And next to this, and in a rather peculiar modern building, you’ll find the Sanshin-gak Hall. Inside is a red robed statue of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit).

To the right rear of the Daeungbo-jeon Hall, and up long set of wooden stairs, you’ll find a three-headed statue of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). The statue is both slender and serene, and it looks out towards Seoul Tower off in the distance.

The final thing that you can see at the temple is the “Seated Wooden Buddha of Daeseongsa Temple,” which is housed inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall next to the administrative office in front of the Daeungbo-jeon Hall. In fact, you have to enter through the administration office to enter the Geukrak-jeon Hall. While the administrative office is to your right, the Geukrak-jeon Hall is to your left. Purportedly, this wooden statue of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) was created by the monk Baek Yongseong. It has a bit of a curmudgeonly expression on its face.

How To Get There

Using the Seoul subway system, you’ll need to get on line 3 and get off at the “Nambu Bus Terminal station – 남부터미널 (예술의전당),” which is stop #341. From this subway stop, you’ll need to go out exit #4-2. After taking this exit, you’ll need to make your way towards the Seoul Arts Center to the south. The signs for the temple are just before you get to the Seoul Arts Center. There’s a bit of an incline as you make your way up to Daeseongsa Temple. In total, the walk from the “Nambu Bus Terminal station” to Daeseongsa Temple is 1.2km, or about 20 minutes.

And if walking isn’t your thing, or you have mobility issues, you can simply take a taxi from the “Nambu Bus Terminal station.” In total, the taxi ride should take about 5 minutes and cost you around 5,000 won (one way).

Overall Rating: 6/10

Most construction at Daeseongsa Temple is new outside the main altar statue of the “Seated Wooden Buddha of Daeseongsa Temple” by Baek Yongseong. But even the main altar statue inside of the Daeungbo-jeon Hall isn’t all that old either. And yet, it’s beautiful. There’s a lot of beauty at Daeseongsa Temple like the hillside three-headed image of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion), the Nahan (Historical Disciples of the Buddha) collection inside the main hall, as well as the four lion three-story pagoda at Daeseongsa Temple. It all makes for a nice little escape from the hustle and bustle of southern Seoul.

The four lion three-story pagoda at Daeseongsa Temple with the Daeungbo-jeon Hall in the background.
A closer look at the four lion three-story pagoda at Daeseongsa Temple
Some of the floral latticework that adorns the Daeungbo-jeon Hall.
As well as one of the paintings from the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals).
The statue of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) that sits atop the main altar inside the Daeungbo-jeon Hall.
One of the sixteen Nahan (Historical Disciples of the Buddha) statues inside the Daeungbo-jeon Hall.
The large Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) inside the main hall, as well.
The outdoor shrine dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King).
On the hillside above, you’ll find this amazing three-headed statue dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion).
And the view of Seoul that she gets to enjoy!

Leave a Reply