Dongchuksa Temple – 동축사 (Dong-gu, Ulsan)

Temple History

Dongchuksa Temple is located in eastern Ulsan in the southern foothills of Mt. Magolsan (297 m). Also, it’s from the heights of Dongchuksa Temple that you can get views of the East Sea off in the distance. According to the “Samguk Yusa,” or “Memorabilia of the Three Kingdoms” in English, and under the section on the “Sixteen Foot Buddha of Hwangnyongsa Temple,” Dongchuksa Temple appears in a round about way. According to the “Samguk Yusa,” Dongchuksa Temple was first founded in 573 A.D. under the orders of King Jinheung of Silla (r. 540–576 A.D.). “Dongchuksa” means “East Buddha Nation Temple” in English (more on this later).

Dongchuksa Temple was reconstructed in 929 A.D. Then during the reign of King Jeongjong of Goryeo (r. 1035-1046), the monk Okin oversaw further renovations on the temple. Dongchuksa Temple would be renovated three more times after the Imjin War (1592-98) in 1664, 1684, and 1834. Although specific details of the temple’s history are unclear at this time, Dongchuksa Temple is listed as an active temple in the “Beomugo” in 1799.

During Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-1945), in 1931, further restorations were done on the temple. After liberation, and in 1975, the monk Doam restored the temple completely through donations. It was at this time that the temple bronze bell was cast and a new bell pavilion was constructed. On April 21, 1994, Dongchuksa Temple was designated as Ulsan Metropolitan City Traditional Temple #1. Dongchuksa Temple is also one of the 982 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.

Temple Legend

Here is the legend of Dongchuksa Temple from the “Samguk Yusa,” or “Memorabilia of the Three Kingdoms” in English:

“In the second month of the fourteenth year of King Jinheung’s reign (553 A.D.) a yellow dragon appeared near the site of the detached Purple Palace which was then under construction to the south of the royal residence. The King therefore changed the intended palace into a temple, naming it Hwangnyongsa Temple. [This means Yellow Dragon Temple, but it was also called King Dragon Temple since the words for yellow (hwang) and king (wang) are pronounced almost the same in Korean]. The pagoda was built in the thirtieth year of the King’s reign (669 A.D.) and so the whole construction was completed in seventeen years.

“About this time, a large ship from Seochuk [West Buddha Nation] in India dropped anchor in the bay of Hagok-hyeon Sapo [modern-day Taehwa, Ulsan]. The captain of the ship presented to the King’s officers a sealed letter which read as follows: ‘King Ashoka of Seochuk gathered 57,000 pounds of yellow iron and 30,000 pun of gold to use in casting three images of the Buddha, but he failed. I have therefore placed these materials aboard a ship and set it adrift on the seven seas, with the prayer that it will reach a land of destiny, where it may be cast into a sixteen foot Buddha images. I send also models for the images of one Buddha and two Bodhisattvas.’

“The officials reported this matter to the King, who ordered the building of a new temple, to be called Dongchuksa Temple, where the three models sent by King Ashoka were to be kept….

“…When the sixteen-foot Golden Buddha was made, the three images in Dongchuksa Temple in Gyeongju [Ulsan] were moved to the new temple.”

This legend is attempting to solidify Silla as the rightful heir of the Buddhist tradition from India; hence, the names of Seochuk and Dongchuk being linked in the naming of the temple Dongchuksa Temple that was to house the three model statues that Ashoka of India purportedly set sail in search of a land that was deserving of his treasure. By stating that his own country was no longer deserving in being able to create their own sixteen-foot tall gold statue of the Buddha, the “Samguk Yusa” is indirectly making the claim that Silla was in fact able to create these statues because they were deserving as a nation rooted in the Buddha’s teachings. This further suggests that Silla considered itself, at least according to the “Samguk Yusa,” as a counterpart to India.

Temple Layout

From the temple parking lot, it’s a bit of a hike up the mountain stairs to get to Dongchuksa Temple. After all those mountain stairs, and up one final set of granite stairs, you’ll come to the temple courtyard that houses all the shrine halls and buildings at Dongchuksa Temple.

Straight ahead of you is the Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the main hall are adorned in a masterful collection of Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar triad centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) and flanked by statues of Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power). To the right of the main altar triad is a shrine dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). This rather chubby golden statue dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal is backed by a modern mural dedicated to the Bodhisattva of Compassion. To the left of the main altar, on the other hand, is a shrine dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). Also housed inside the Daeung-jeon Hall is a red-accented Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) and a mural dedicated to Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise).

Out in front of the Daeung-jeon Hall is the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda of Dongchuksa Temple.” It’s believed that this pagoda dates back to the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.). The original base to the pagoda has been lost, so its exact height is unknown. Instead, a new base has recently been added to the pagoda. Each of the three roof stones on the main body are carved from a single stone. Each of the roof stones have been damaged. As for the finial of the pagoda, it only consists of a base. In 2005, the pagoda was relocated to its current location. The “Three-Story Stone Pagoda of Dongchuksa Temple” is Ulsan Tangible Cultural Property #11.

To the left and right of the three-story pagoda, you’ll find the monks’ dorms, the temple kitchen, and the administrative office. In fact, and on the way towards the temple kitchen, you’ll find a rare picture of Jowang-shin (The Fireplace King Spirit). This is one of the older paintings that I’ve seen of this shaman spirit at a Korean temple.

To the left rear of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls to this shaman shrine hall are adorned with stunning pictures dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) and Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). Above each of the three entries to the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find signboards dedicated to each of the three shaman deities housed inside the Samseong-gak Hall. Stepping inside the shaman shrine hall, you’ll find three paintings. The central image, which is the oldest of the three, is dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). This central image is joined on either side by a painting of Sanshin and Dokseong.

To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Jong-ru Pavilion, which was first constructed in 1975. The Jong-ru Pavilion houses the four traditional Buddhist instruments including the large bronze bell that was also first cast in 1975. It’s to the right of the Jong-ru Pavilion that you get a beautiful view of the East Sea off in the distance and through the mountain trees.

How To Get There

From the Ulsan Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to head south past the 7/11 for about 200 metres. From this bus stop, you’ll need to take two buses to get to Dongchuksa Temple. The first is Bus #1401. You’ll need to take this bus for eight stops and get off at the “Halla-tawa-ap – 한라타워앞 하차” stop. This first bus ride should take about 15 minutes. From this bus stop, you’ll then need to take Bus #131 for fifteen stops. You’ll need to get off at the “Byeoksan-utopia – 벽산유토피아 하차” bus stop. This bus ride should take about 15 minutes. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to head towards the sports complex to your west. Head past the sports complex. Eventually, you’ll come upon the temple parking lot. From the bus stop to the temple parking lot, it’ll take you about 15 minutes, or 700 metres, and most of this hike is uphill. Then from the temple parking lot, it’ll take you an additional 10 minutes up the mountain stairs.

Overall Rating: 6/10

Most of the temple shrine halls are newer in origin; and yet, Dongchuksa Temple is a traditional temple. It commands a beautiful view of the East Sea off in the distance, but you’ll first need to climb part of a mountain to get to Dongchuksa Temple. There are stunning paintings surrounding both the Daeung-jeon Hall and the Samseong-gak Hall. And if you look close enough around the kitchen’s entryway, you’ll be able to spot the painting dedicated to Jowang-shin (The Fireplace King Spirit). Overall, Dongchuksa Temple has a nice feel to it with a lot of friendly faces.