Dosolam Hermitage – 도솔암 (Buk-gu, Ulsan)
Hermitage History
Dosolam Hermitage is located in Buk-gu, Ulsan in the western foothills of Mt. Muryongsan (450.6 m). Dosolam Hermitage is a branch hermitage of Tongdosa Temple. As for Mt. Muryongsan, and according to legend, nine dragons lived in a pond on the peak of the mountain. There, the dragons danced and played, which brought down rain. That’s why the mountain is known as Mt. Muryongsan, which means “Dancing Dragons Mountain” in English.
Up until the late Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), the site was the private residence of Yi Jong-jun of the Wolseong Yi clan. Two sisters, Kim Bok-seon and Kim Su-hwa, were living in Byeongyeong (present-day Byeongyeong-dong) in Ulsan, when they acquired this private residence. They would convert this residence into a Daeung-jeon Hall that would become Dosolam Hermitage. Afterward, the two sisters became nuns and received the Dharma names of Ailda (阿逸多)and Seongryeon (性蓮). Based on a roof beam inscription, or “Sanggyeongmun” in Korean, which was discovered in the 1980s, the inscription mentions the year “Jeongchuk.” From this, it’s presumed that the hermitage was founded in 1937 during Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45).
After, the monk Jeonggak took over the hermitage from the two sisters in 1977. And from 1985 to 1991, the hermitage was renovated and rebuilt. On April 21st, 1994, Dosolam Hermitage was designated as Ulsan Metropolitan City Traditional Temple #11. Dosolam Hermitage is also one of 982 traditional Buddhist temple in Korea.
Hermitage Layout
From the temple parking lot, you’ll make your way past a large weeping willow and red spider lilies in the fall. To the east you’ll find a diminutive Iljumun Gate and a stone statue of Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha) to the left.
Around the corner, and past the administrative office and hermitage kitchen, you’ll enter into the main hermitage courtyard at Dosolam Hermitage. In front of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a three-story pagoda, which was first created in 1991, and resembles Seokga-tap Pagoda at Bulguksa Temple in Gyeongju. Purportedly, three sari (crystallized remains) of the Buddha, Seokgamoni-bul, are housed inside the pagoda at Dosolam Hermitage. Purportedly the sari housed inside the pagoda were secretly preserved by monks up until the late Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). They were then housed at Dosolam Hermitage to be housed inside the pagoda in 1991.
Backing this three-story pagoda is the Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in simplistic Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals) and Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals). Stepping inside the main hall, you’ll find a triad centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This central image is then flanked by images of a green haired, golden capped statue of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) and a regally crowned image of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion).
To the right rear of the Daeung-jeon Hall is an unpainted Samseong-gak Hall. Stepping inside the shaman shrine hall, you’ll find three newly painted images of the three most popular shaman deities in Korean Buddhism. The central painting is dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). To the right of this central painting is an image of a very Asian-looking Sanshin (Mountain Spirit). And to the left is an image of Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). Rather interestingly, a blue lion (who is typically associated with Munsu-bosal, the Bodhisattva of Wisdom) appears at the side of Dokseong. This painting appears to be a conflation of Sanshin (with their tiger) and Munsu-bosal (with their blue lion).
Back-tracking, and passing by the monks’ dorms to the front right of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a hidden shrine hall next to the hermitage’s administrative office. This expansive shrine hall is the Yaksa-jeon Hall. On the main altar, you’ll find a triad centred by Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). To the left and right of this central image are statues dedicated to Wolgwang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Moon) and Ilgwang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Sun). Both of these Bodhisattvas hold colourful orbs to their chests. The red orb-holding Bodhisattva is Ilgwang-bosal, while the golden orb-holding Bodhisattva is Wolgwang-bosal.
How To Get There
To get to Dosolam Hermitage from the Ulsan Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll first need to head north for 200 metres and cross the street to take Bus #246 (농소 순환). You’ll need to take this bus for 18 stops, or 29 minutes, and get off at the “Hwabong Godeung Hakgyo – 화봉 고등학교 하차” bus stop. This bus stop is near Hwabong High School. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to first head north from the CU convenience store for about 150 metres. You’ll then need to head east for about 350 metres, until you arrive at Dosolam Hermitage.
Overall Rating: 5/10
There are definitely a few highlights to this small hermitage including the three-story pagoda that purportedly house three sari (crystallized remains) of the Buddha, Seokgamoni-bul. In addition to this pagoda, have a look for the stunning Dokseong (Lonely Saint) painting inside the Samseong-gak Hall, the main altar triad inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, as well as the main altar triad that include the orb-holding images of Ilgwang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Sun) and Wolgwang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Moon) inside the concealed Yaksa-jeon Hall.
