Eungseoksa Temple – 응석사 (Jinju, Gyeongsangnam-do)

Temple History

Eungseoksa Temple is located in northern Jinju, Gyeongsangnam-do to the south of Mt. Jibhyeonsan (578.1 m). Eungseoksa Temple was first established in 554 A.D. According to historical records, and in 662 A.D., the famed monk Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.) is said to have held a lecture at the temple. However, since Uisang-daesa was studying in Tang China (618–690, 705–907 A.D.) at this time, it’s unlikely that he was also giving a lecture at Eungseoksa Temple, as well.

In the late Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), such monks as Jigong (1289–1363 A.D.), Naong Hyegeun (1320–1376), and Muhak (1327–1405) are recorded to have stayed at Eungseoksa Temple. During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), monks such as Samyeong-daesa (1544-1610) and Jinmuk Il-ok (1562-1663) stayed at the temple, as well. This helped gain a better reputation for the temple.

According to oral tradition, Eungseoksa Temple originally had several buildings, including a Daeung-jeon Hall, a Gwaneum-jeon Hall, a Munsu-jeon Hall, a Yeongsan-jeon Hall, and a Nahan-jeon Hall. However, during the Imjin War (1592-98) in 1592, Japanese forces destroyed the temple after discovering hidden weapons beneath the main altar inside the Daeung-jeon Hall.

According to an inscription at the temple, Eungseoksa Temple was renovated in 1736 and then again in 1899. Renovations would take place at the temple in 1983 and 2003, as well.

Eungseoksa Temple is home to one provincial treasure, which is the Daeung-jeon Hall. The temple is also home to a Korean Treasure, which is the “Wooden Seated Sakyamuni Buddha Triad of Eungseoksa Temple, Jinju.” Also, Eungseoksa Temple is one of the 982 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.

Temple Layout

You first make your way up to the temple grounds passing through the stately Iljumun Gate from the temple parking lot. The Iljumun Gate is top heavy and supported by two strong pillars. The intricate blue-dominated dancheong that adorns the roof of the entry gate is simply stunning.

Beyond the Iljumun Gate, you’ll find a two-story structure. The first story of the structure acts as the Cheonwangmun Gate. Both front exterior walls are adorned in fading tiger murals. Stepping inside the first story of the structure, you’ll find four paintings of the Four Heavenly Kings. They are basic but beautiful. As for the second story of the structure, it functions as a Jong-ru Pavilion with the four traditional Buddhist percussion instruments housed inside it.

Beyond this two-story structure, you’ll enter the main temple courtyard at Eungseoksa Temple. In the centre of the main temple courtyard is a modern three-story stone pagoda, which is joined to the right by an old ginkgo tree. Behind the three-story pagoda is the temple’s Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the main hall are adorned in a stunning collection of Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). And at the base of the front floral latticework, you’ll find a beautiful collection of demonic murals of Gwimyeon (Monster Masks).

Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, which dates back to 1736 and rebuilt in 1899, you’ll find a main altar occupied by “Wooden Seated Sakyamuni Buddha Triad of Eungseoksa Temple, Jinju.” The three statues were carved by a group of six monk sculptors including Cheongheon, Beophyeon and Wontaek. The triad is believed to date back to 1643, and it’s a Korean Treasure. The central image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) is joined on either side by images of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) and Yaksayeorae (The Buddha of the Eastern Paradise, and the Medicine Buddha). These three Buddhas are meant to represent the Buddhas of the Three Realms. After two destructive wars that took place during the Imjin War (1592-98) and the Manchu invasions of Korea (1627, 1636-37), the triad was meant to embody the belief that they could heal illness and provide salvation from the suffering caused by death. As for the style of the triad, all three statues have a head that is disproportionately large compared to the size of their bodies. The three statues appear mostly identical in facial features and bodily proportions. The central image of Seokgamoni-bul has its hand turned downward, assuming the earth-touching mudra (ritualized hand gesture). Seokgamoni-bul’s robe hangs from its left shoulder, leaving the right shoulder bare. As for Amita-bul and Yaksayeorae-bul, they have one of their hands held up to their chests, while the other rests on their laps. The two Buddhas have the same hand position, but they’re inverted. They are also dressed in two layers of clothes.

Also housed inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, and to the right of the main altar, you’ll find a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). To the left of the main altar, on the other hand, is an older mural dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). Looking above the main altar, and where a canopy should be located, are a pair of Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities) paintings.

To the far left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the administrative office and kitchen to Eungseoksa Temple. And to the right of the main hall, you’ll find the monks’ dorms.

Close by, and just to the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find an oddly designed six-story pagoda. Instead of being square or rectangular in design, this pagoda is circular. It’s somewhat similar in design to that of the “Hexagonal Multi-story Stone Pagoda of Geumsansa Temple, Gimje.” And to the left of this pagoda is the Sanshin-gak Hall. The exterior of this shaman shrine hall’s walls are adorned with murals of bamboo and flowers. Stepping inside the Sanshin-gak Hall, you’ll find that it actually functions as a Sanshin/Chilseong-gak Hall. The interior of this shaman shrine hall is occupied by two murals dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) and Chilseong (The Seven Stars). The mural of Sanshin is backed by a beautiful twisted red pine and joined to the side by a golden-eyed image of a tiger. As for the Chilseong mural, it’s well-populated and similar in composition to the older mural dedicated to Jijang-bosal housed inside the Daeung-jeon Hall.

To the left of the Sanshin-gak Hall, but before entering the Nahan-jeon Hall, you’ll find a replica of the “Twin Lion Stone Lantern of Beopjusa Temple.” Like the original, this replica is stunning. There are a pair of lions holding up the light chamber to this seokdeung (stone lantern). Beyond this, and even further to the left, you’ll find the temple’s Nahan-jeon Hall. The exterior to the Nahan-jeon Hall is adorned in simple dancheong colours. Stepping inside the shrine hall, you’ll find the main altar occupied by the image of Seokgamoni-bul and joined on either side by sixteen stone statues dedicated to the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha). While these statues were once all white, or at least they were in 2012 when I first visited the temple, they are now all adorned in vibrant colours including their facial features and clothes.

The final shrine hall you can visit at Eungseoksa Temple is up an uneven set of stone stairs through an opening in a stone fence. This is the Dokseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls to this shaman shrine hall are adorned in simple dancheong colours. Stepping inside, you’ll find a large, modern painting on the main altar dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). And to the left of the Dokseong-gak Hall is an off-limits building.

How To Get There

From the Jinju Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #377. You’ll need to take this bus for 46 stops, or 45 minutes. You’ll need to get off at the “Eungseoksa – 응석사 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to head slightly northwest. From the bus stop, you’ll easily be able to see the temple grounds.

Overall Rating: 6/10

The main highlight to Eungseoksa Temple is the Daeung-jeon Hall and the “Wooden Seated Sakyamuni Buddha Triad of Eungseoksa Temple, Jinju” housed inside it. The triad inside the main hall is simply stunning and is surrounded by beautiful modern paintings. Beyond the Daeung-jeon Hall, you can also enjoy the top-heavy Iljumun Gate, the stone statues inside the Nahan-jeon Hall of the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha), as well as the painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) inside the Sanshin-gak Hall. Eungseoksa Temple, while lesser known, is a beautiful visit to a temple in northern Jinju, Gyeongsangnam-do.