Geumbongam Hermitage – 금봉암 (Geochang, Gyeongsangnam-do)
Hermitage History
Geumbongam Hermitage is located to the south of Mt. Sambongsan (1,255 m) in northern Geochang, Gyeongsangnam-do. The mountain is also known as “Little Geumgangsan” because its landscape is said to resemble one of the peaks of Mt. Geumgangsan. As for the name of the hermitage, it doesn’t mean “Golden Peak Hermitage;” instead, and if one looks at the Chinese characters of the hermitage name (金鳳庵), it means “Golden Phoenix Hermitage” in English. The name of the hermitage is derived from the idea of the phoenix being a symbol of auspiciousness. In particular, Geumbongam Hermitage is believed to represent the place where only the mythical golden phoenix would rest, which only heightens the perceived auspicious location of Geumbongam Hermitage. Another meaning behind the hermitage name is that the mountain peaks surrounding Geumbongam Hermitage are believed to resemble the form of a phoenix.
Geumbongam Hermitage was originally built during the Three Kingdoms of Korea (57 B.C. – 668 A.D.). It would be rebuilt in 1905 by a man named Sim, who was a deeply devote Buddhist. According to a hermitage legend, Sim had a vision from a practitioner of pungsu-jir (geomancy, feng shui), who suggested the hermitage site. Sim fasted for one hundred days while drinking from a mysterious spring, which was known as the “Longevity Spring” in English. The spring was covered by a cauldron lid. On the last day of his fasting, Sim found a golden phoenix appear out of nowhere, where it circled the future hermitage site three times before flying away. Inspired by this auspicious event, Sim constructed a hermitage and named it Geumbongam Hermitage.
In addition to all of its natural beauty, Geumbongam Hermitage is known as a place for both spiritual reflection and healing. Also, and near the Samseong-gak Hall, there’s a rock known as “Yongbawi” in Korean, which means “Dragon Rock” in English. This rock has historical significance, as it was used for rain prayers. In fact, when a drought persisted in the area, the people of Geochang would go up to this rock to perform prayers for rain, hoping to bring relief to the county.
Geumbongam Hermitage is one of the 982 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea, and it’s only one of four in Geochang, Gyeongsangnam-do.
Hermitage Layout
The road leading up to Geumbongam Hermitage is one of the most treacherous I’ve ever been on. It twists and turns at sharp angles; and if you visit the hermitage in the winter, it’s almost guaranteed that the top portion will be covered in ice. This is all to say: be prepared when travelling up towards the heights of Geumbongam Hermitage.
When you finally do arrive at the hermitage parking lot, you’ll find a two-in-one entry gate at an angle. This newly constructed entry gate acts as both a Cheonwangmun Gate and a Geumgangmun Gate. The exterior walls of this entry gate are left unadorned; however, beams and eaves are painted in intricate dancheong colours. Housed inside this entry gate, and protected by a glass enclosure, you’ll find a collection of guardians. First, you’ll find red accented paintings dedicated to the Four Heavenly Kings on either side of the gate (two on each side). These paintings are then joined by statues of the Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors). There are two statues in total with one on each side.
Passing through the Cheonwangmun/Geumgangmun Gate, you’ll find an outdoor shrine with a triad of large statues. The central statue appears to be Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). This statue is flanked by an image of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) and a large multi-headed crown-wearing image of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) who holds a lotus flower in its hand.
To the left of this triad, and a hike up a steep road, you’ll finally come to the main temple courtyard at Geumbongam Hermitage. The first structure that you’ll encounter on your way up is the Beomjong-gak Pavilion, which houses a large bronze bell. On either side of the signboard for the pavilion, you’ll find a pair of fierce dragons.
Mounting the final set of stairs, you’ll now enter into the main hermitage courtyard. Straight ahead are the monks’ dorms. To your immediate right, on the other hand, you’ll find Nahan-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the shrine hall are filled with paintings dedicated to various guardians. Stepping inside the Nahan-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a triad of statues centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This triad is joined on either side with the sixteen traditional Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha) statues (eight on each side). Then on the far left and right walls, you’ll find colourful smaller statues of the expanded Nahan, which are comprised of 500 statues. There are also large panel paintings dedicated to the Nahan above the 500 statues, which are joined by beautiful lotus flower and plum blossom paintings.
To the left of the Nahan-jeon Hall, and to the right of the monks’ dorms, you’ll find the Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the main hall are adorned in Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals). And crowning the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a stone statue of a standing Seokgamoni-bul. Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar of five statues centred by Seokgamoni-bul and joined on either side by images of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) and Yaksayeorae-bul. This triad is then book-ended by a pair of standing statues. One of these statues is Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power), while the other is dedicated to Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom). To the right of this main altar, you’ll find a shrine dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal. And to the left of the main altar, you’ll find a shrine dedicated to Jijang-bosal. Also taking up residence inside the Daeung-jeon Hall is an older Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, and parallel to the main hall, you’ll find the Yongwang-dang Hall. The exterior of the shaman shrine hall is left unpainted. Stepping inside the Yongwang-dang Hall, you’ll find a golden seated image dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King) on the main altar. This seated statue is then backed by a painting of the Dragon King, who is joined by a pair of swirling dragons: one yellow and one blue.
To the left of the Yongwang-dang Hall, and up a long set of steep stairs, you’ll find the crowning Samseong-gak Hall. The views from the Samseong-gak Hall are simply stunning. There are also a pair of beautiful, cracked wooden dragons on either side of the signboard to the Samseong-gak Hall. There is also an orange tiger that adorns one of the exterior walls to this shaman shrine hall. Stepping inside the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find a beautiful set of shaman paintings. On the far left wall is a painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). In the centre is a mural dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). While on the far right wall, you’ll find a mural dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint).
How To Get There
The only practical way to get to Geumbongam Hermitage is if you own your own mode of transportation. Taking a bus from the Geochang Bus Terminal will take you around two hours, while a taxi from the terminal will cost you around 37,000 (one way) for a nearly 40 minute taxi ride.
Overall Rating: 6.5/10
The views at Geumbongam Hermitage are simply stunning, and it takes a pretty treacherous road up to the hermitage to appreciate them. The triad of standing statues behind the two-in-one entry gate are beautiful, especially the multi-headed crown-wearing Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). In addition to the view and this statue, you can also enjoy the entire interior of the Daeung-jeon Hall, the 500 statues dedicated to the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha) inside the Nahan-jeon Hall, as well as the shaman paintings housed inside the crowning Samseong-gak Hall. But above it all, it’s the tranquil views from the hermitage that will draw you to Geumbongam Hermitage.
