Geumseonsa Temple – 금선사 (Gwangsan-gu, Gwangju)
Temple History
Geumseonsa Temple is located in western Gwangju inside Seongjong Park. Formerly, Geumseonsa Temple was Songjeong Shrine, which was a Japanese Shinto shrine. As part of the Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45) policy, Shinto shrines were established throughout the Korean Peninsula, and visiting these shrines was enforced. This was all part of an effort to make Koreans loyal subjects of the Japanese Emperor. Geumseonsa Temple, which was formerly Songjeong Shrine, is the only remaining Japanese Shinto shrine in Korea.
Originally, the Songjeong Shrine was the site of the Shimmei Shrine, which was established on November 25th, 1922 (Taisho 11). On August 28th, 1940 (Showa 15), Otsuka Yohei and fifty-three other petitioners petitioned the main Shinto Shrine Headquarters to elevate the status of the shrine. This would result in the change of the Shimmei Shrine to that of the Songjeong Shrine. Subsequently, Songjeong Shrine was founded on April 17th, 1941 (Showa 16). Construction of the shrine began almost immediately after the approval for the Songjeong Shrine was granted.
The Songjeong Shrine was initially constructed by the Japanese colonial authorities in 1941 to promote the concept of “Japan and Korea as one” (naisen ittai). The aim of this mindset was to help transform the way that Koreans thought about the Japanese. The deity worshiped at the newly constructed Songjeong Shrine was Amaterasu Omikami (the goddess of the sun). This was the same deity as the one formerly found at the Shimmei Shrine.
The original area of the Songjeong Shrine in 1941 included several structures like the Shinden, which is a hall dedicated to the housing of the shrine’s deity, as well as its sacred objects. This structure was 4.13 m2. In addition, there was the Haiden, which was the space where worshipers would gather to pray and pay their respects. This structure was 19.8 m2. There was also the Shinsanso, which was a location for preparing for the daily offerings to the spirits. This building was 13.2 m2. And finally, there was an office for the shrine’s priest, which is known as a Shinkan, or Shinju. This structure was 108.08 m2.
Of all these structures, only the Haiden (worship hall) and the Shinkan (office) still remain. Both the Shinden and the Shinsanso have been removed. In addition to the Haiden and the Shinkan, there are other features of the former Shinto shrine that still exist such as the Sankai (worship stairs), the Shinmok (sacred tree), the Sando (pathway), stone lantern platforms, and the staircase leading up to the Daeung-jeon Hall at the present Geumseonsa Temple.
In 1948, the Haiden (worship hall) was transformed into a Daeung-jeon Hall at the newly formed Geumseonsa Temple. This wooden Shinto shrine building is the only one of its kind still remaining in Korea. In recent years, there’s been growing concerns about the repurposed Shinto shrine that was built during Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45). So on August 13th, 2020, and to commemorate the 75th anniversary of Korean Liberation, a plaque was placed on the Geumseonsa Temple grounds entitled “Gwangju Anti-Japanese Condemnation Statement.”
Temple Layout
As you make your way up to Geumseonsa Temple, you’ll be guided by the large trees along the way including a cherry tree. Halfway towards the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll come across the monks’ dorms to your left. This is the former Shinkan (office). Also before reaching the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find an obelisk-like monument. Originally, this was called the “Hōkoku Shimin Seosa Tower,” and it was meant to glorify the Japanese Colonial agenda. Later, the six characters inscribed on the obelisk-like monument were changed in 1951, and they were replaced with the inscription “Namu Amita-bul,” which is a prayer meant for Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise).
As you near the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find that there is a bronze incense burner standing just before the stairs leading up to the main hall. On either side of this bronze incense burner, you’ll find a pair of stone lanterns from the original Shinto shrine. As for the stairs, and on the left stone pillar at the base of the stairs, you’ll find an inscription that clearly reads “大正十三年,” or “Taisho 13” in English, which indicates that the Japanese Shinto shrine was initially built in 1924.
As for the exterior of the Daeung-jeon Hall, it remains in its simple monochromatic colours, which is typical of Japanese religious architecture. If you look from the side, you’ll notice that the initial Japanese architecture remains intact. From the side, you can see that the building has a hip-and gable roof with the front being long and gently sloping, while the back of the structure remains shorter. On either side of the central part of the structure, and on either side of the roof, you’ll see the heads of dragons with golden horns.
Stepping inside the simplistic structure, you’ll notice that you’ll need to take a step up towards the main floor of the interior structure. This, once again, is very typical of Japanese Colonial era religious structures in Korea. Straight ahead of you is a compact main altar with a triad resting upon it. In the centre is the image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This central image is flanked by statues of a green-haired Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) with its head slightly cast downward, as well as a regally crowned image of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion).
To the right of this main altar, you’ll find a slightly older painting dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). To the right of this painting, you’ll find a solitary statue dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). And to the right of this image, you’ll find a statue and painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). Both are stunning, especially the leopard-like tiger in the painting dedicated to Sanshin. It’s quite ironic that all these Korean shamanic figures are now housed inside an old Japanese Shinto shrine.
And to the left of the main altar, you’ll first find an older Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) that looks about the same age as the Chilseong mural also housed inside the Daeung-jeon Hall. To the left of this painting, you’ll find one of the widest paintings dedicated to Jijang-bosal in all of Korea. And to the left of this, on the far left wall, you’ll find an older Gamno-do (Sweet Dew Mural).
How To Get There
The easiest way to get to Geumseonsa Temple is to hop on the Gwangju subway system. There’s only one line, so it’s quite easy to navigate. You’ll need to get off at the “Songjeong Park – 송정공원역” stop, which is stop #116. From this subway stop, you’ll need to go out exit #3. Head north and cross the street at the BBQ Chicken restaurant. About twenty metres later, you’ll need to hang a right eastward. Eventually, and after about 100 metres, you’ll arrive at the elevated Geumseonsa Temple. In total, the walk from the subway stop to the temple is about 300 metres, or five minutes.
Overall Rating: 6/10
Geumseonsa Temple is beautifully located in Seongjong Park in the western part of Gwangju. In addition to its beautiful surroundings, Geumseonsa Temple isn’t quite like other Buddhist temples in Korea. In fact, it’s not even like the other Japanese Colonial era Buddhist temples in Korea. It has a distinct, minimalistic feel to it. While the exterior is very much a former Shinto shrine, the interior is filled with beautiful Korean Buddhist artistry like the main altar triad and the painting and statue dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). Geumseonsa Temple, however, is a painful reminder of Korea’s not too distant past, so please be respectful while visiting.
