Goransa Temple – 고란사 (Buyeo, Chungcheongnam-do)
Temple History
Goransa Temple is located along the Geumgang River in western Buyeo, Chungcheongnam-do. While there are legends linking the temple to the Baekje Kingdom (18 B.C. – 660 A.D.) like the temple being established in 57 B.C., while another states that Goransa Temple was first built during the reign of King Asin of Baekje (r. 392-405 A.D.); however, there is no archaeological evidence proving that the temple dates back to this time period. The current Goransa Temple was established during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). One legend suggests that Goransa Temple was first built in 1028 to comfort the souls of the three thousand court ladies who died while jumping to their death from Nakhwaam Rock, when they were being chased by Tang Dynasty (618–690, 705–907 A.D.) forces. Instead of being sex slaves, these three thousand women purportedly chose death.
Behind the main hall at Goransa Temple, there’s a spring called Goranjeong, which is situated in a rocky crevice. And out in front of the temple grounds, there’s “gorancho,” which means “Corydalis ternata” in English. This plant is known for its medicinal properties. This plant is also known as yellow corydalis, which has small delicate flowers.
There are historical records that in 1236, and during the Goryeo Dynasty, Gen. Jeon Gong-ryeol of the Bureong Special Forces hid his entire army near Goransa Temple and defeated the Mongol cavalry during the Mongol Invasions of Korea (1231-1270). During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), several geographical texts and poetry document the presence of Goransa Temple. Of particular interest is the “Goransa-do” painting by Lee Yun-yeong (1714-1759), who created this painting in 1748. This painting provides an insight into what Goransa Temple looked like during the mid-18th century.
The current Goransa Temple was reconstructed in 1902. Goransa Temple had fallen into disrepair by the late 19th century, which was noted in the “Buyeo-hyeon Eupji” in 1875. In 1932 and 1959, the temple was repaired and renovated even more.
During Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45), Osaka Kintaro played a leading role as the director of the Baekje Cultural Preservation Society in making Buyeo a place for “Inter-Korean-Japan Unity.” In 1934, Osaka published a promotional tourism booklet entitled “Guidelines for Baekje’s Historical Sites and Scenic Locations in Buyeo.” Several historical plays were made dealing with the fall of the Baekje Kingdom, and they were produced during Japanese Colonial Rule. These plays included Kim Neung’s “Nakhoaam” in 1933, Lim Seon-kyu’s “Sabi River and Nakhoaam” in 1936, Kim Yong-seung’s “Baekje and Nakhoaam,” and Ham Se-deok’s “Nakhoaam” in 1940. All of these plays featured Nakhoaam Rock as a central theme and the three thousand Baekje court ladies that plunged to their deaths.
Admission to the temple is 2,000 won for adults and 1,100 won for children. Additionally, the boat ride is 10,000 (return), and it’s 6,000 won (one way). These boats leave every thirty minutes. So if you miss one, you’ll need to wait a bit. Typically, there are two boats running at any given time.
Temple Legend
There are two legends directly associated with Goransa Temple. One was already alluded to earlier from the “Samguk Yusa,” or “Memorabilia of the Three Kingdoms” in English. In the “Samguk Yusa,” it states how in the “Baekjegogi,” or “Ancient Records of Baekje,” that the northern corner of the Buyeo Fortress has a large rock that touches the river below. In this legend, it’s stated that King Uija of Baekje (r. 641-660 A.D.) learned that the Baekje Kingdom had been overthrown by the combined forces of the Tang Dynasty and Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.). Learning this, the royal courtesans and concubines said, “We would rather die by our own hands than fall into the hands of others.” With this in mind, they made their way over to the neighbouring mountainous heights, where they could throw themselves from a rock down into the river below. This rock would be named “Tasaam,” which means “Fallen Death Rock” in English.
In the early Goryeo Dynasty, the legend is presumed to have been transmitted orally during Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.) after the fall of the Baekje Kingdom (18 B.C. – 660 A.D.). During the late Goryeo Dynasty, the legend was later embellished with the renaming of the rock from “Tasaam” to that of “Nakhoaam,” which means “Fallen Flower Rock” in English.
In the “Jeiwangungi,” or “Chronicles of Kings – Volume 2,” which was compiled by Lee Seung-hyu in 1287, it states, “As the nation had been maintained for a long time, it reached the time of King Uija [of Baekje], who became captivated by women and music and lost the royal principles. [Omitted] Many concubines threw themselves into the clear current, and only Nakhoaam Rock rises in Daewangpo Port. The name of the port comes from the king’s habitual enjoyment there, while the rock’s name comes from the concubines who fell and died.”
Influenced by the poetry of the late Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) used the legend of Nakhoaam Rock as a subject for morality. For example, on October 28th, 1433, King Sejong the Great (r. 1418-1450) declared that the downfall of the Baekje Kingdom at Nakhoam Rock was due to wine. With this in mind, King Sejong the Great had the “Jujaso” (printing office) publish and distribute pamphlets warning against the evils of alcohol. This was then followed in 1484 by Kim Heun, who was a civil servant, when he stated that the Baekje Kingdom fell because King Uija of Baekje was indulging in lewd behaviour and distancing himself from his loyal subjects like Seongchung (?-656 A.D.). Thus, Nakhoaam Rock and its legend were utilized during the Joseon Dynasty as a moral lesson of loyalty and disloyalty. The legend would also be used to highlight and teach the importance and virtue of chastity for women during the Neo-Confucian-led policies of the Joseon Dynasty.
Another legend about the temple concerns the Goranjeong, which is the crevice spring to the rear of the main hall. According to this legend, there lived an older man who became a newborn baby. Long ago, there was a village called Soburi, where an elderly couple lived together in harmony. Despite their older age, they had no children. The older woman often lamented the fact that they hadn’t had a baby, so she wished that they could become young again and have a child this time around.
One day, the older woman heard from a hermit on Mt. Geumseongsan that the soft dew from a “gorancho” and the miraculous spring water seeping from the rocks by the riverside in Soburi had astonishing curative powers. The next morning, the older woman sent her husband to drink the spring water. However, when he didn’t return by nightfall, she became concerned, so she went herself early the next morning to the riverside spring. When she arrived at the riverside spring, she was astonished to find a newborn baby in her husband’s clothes.
Upon seeing this, the older woman screamed, “Oh, no!”
The older woman regretted that she hadn’t informed her husband about what the hermit had said prior to his travels to the riverside spring. The hermit had informed the older woman that if you drank just one cup, you would grow three years younger. Obviously the older woman’s husband had drunk a bit more than just one cup of the spring water. The older woman would return to her home holding the newborn in her arms. Upon returning to her home, she lovingly took care of the infant. It’s said that this infant, who was formerly the older man, would grow up to achieve great things for the Baekje Kingdom.
Temple Layout
First, you’ll take about a fifteen minute ride up the river on the boat. You’ll then backtrack towards Goransa Temple and its dock. From where the boat drops you off, you’ll need to make your way up a side-winding trail, until you come to the temple’s admission office. Here, you’ll need to pay 2,000 per person.
Eventually, and after climbing a few stairs, you’ll come to the temple grounds that skirt the river’s shore. Goransa Temple is located on a rocky plateau. You’ll first past by the administrative office and monks’ dorms at the temple, until you finally come to the Geukrak-jeon Hall. The exterior walls of the main hall are adorned with Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals), as well as a collection of murals related to the founding of the temple. Stepping inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall, you’ll find a triad centred by Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) and joined on either side by a statue of Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul) and an all-white Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). This triad, which is Cultural Material of Chungcheongnam-do #418, consists of two of three statues that are historic. The two historic wooden statues are of Amita-bul and Daesaeji-bosal. The style of these statues appear to date back to late-Joseon (1392-1910). And hanging on the far right wall is a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the right of the Geukrak-jeon Hall, and right before a large slab of rock, is the Jong-ru Pavilion. Housed inside this bell pavilion is a solitary bronze bell. Behind this Jong-ru Pavilion, and across the large slab of stone, is the temple’s Samseong-gak Hall. Instead of housing just three murals dedicated to three shaman deities, this shaman shrine hall, in fact, houses four shaman paintings. There are three dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), Chilseong (The Seven Stars), and Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), which are black-accented. All three are obviously created by the same artist and are conventional in design. The fourth painting inside the Samseong-gak Hall, and dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King), is the most spectacular of the group. Yongwang has a long, white beard with a carp and smaller blue dragon looking up at the Dragon King. Book-ending this central image are a pair of dragons: one blue and one yellow. This painting dedicated to Yongwang at Goransa Temple is stunning.
To the rear of the Geukrak-jeon Hall is the Goranjeong from the second temple legend. There are a lot of people visiting this spring, so be prepared for crowds, if you want to get younger by sipping at the spring water. And perched above the temple grounds is a pavilion near the Nakhoaam Rock, which is also from the temple legend. It’s a bit of a hike up to the pavilion, so be prepared.
How To Get There
From the Buyeo Intercity Bus Terminal, you can simply walk the 1.3 km distance. From the bus terminal, head north towards the rotary. Hang a bit of a right and head north, once more, this time up “Naruteo-ro – 나루터로” road. Head up this road for about 600 metres even when the road bends a bit to the west. Eventually, you’ll come to “Baekgang-ro – 백강로” road. Head east down this road for about 100 metres. You’ll notice the dock and boats for Goransa Temple to your left (north).
If walking isn’t your thing, you can also simply take a taxi from the Buyeo Intercity Bus Terminal. The taxi ride should take about five minutes, or 1.3 km. The taxi fee should be around 4,200 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 7/10
Goransa Temple is less spectacular than its surroundings. Goransa Temple is beautifully situated by Geumgang River, and you require a boat ride to get to the temple. However, during a holiday, this boat ride can get crazy busy (as I experienced). Additionally, you can enjoy the views from the legendary heights of Nakhoaam Rock, or you can enjoy the spring water that might just make you a little younger behind the Geukrak-jeon Hall. Also, keep an eye out for the main altar wooden triad centred by Amita-bul and the stunning mural dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King) inside the Samseong-gak Hall.
